The Philippines - Relaxed birding tour

3rd - 16th April 2010

Leader: Rob Hutchinson

Participants: Peter Grady, Trevor Graves, Terry and Linda Osborn,
John and Allie Parish, George Sage, Roger and Diane Tarran.

Palawan Peacock Pheasant, St. Paul’s, Palawan        ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

The islands of the Philippines are not a destination often associated with relaxed birding but this tour proved emphatically that it is a very successful combination. This tour which visited Candaba Marshes, Subic Bay and Mount Makiling on Luzon along with St Pauls and Iwahig on Palawan gave the ideal balance of fine accommodation, excellent food, superb scenery and of course a fine selection of habitats and birds including some of the Philippines most spectacular endemics.

After a good night’s sleep in Manila to overcome the jetlag we left early the next morning to beat the traffic and enjoy the marshes at Candaba in the relative cool of the early morning. The marshes here were typically active and with this being the first time for many of the group in south-east Asia, new birds came thick and fast. As we enjoyed our coffee and breakfast snacks the main marsh was positively thronging with Black-crowned Night Herons, Grey and Purple Herons all tending to their youngsters. Intermediate, Little and Eastern Cattle Egret were all abundant in the marsh and close scrutiny revealed single Striated Heron and at least one Chinese Pond Heron in breeding attire. More elusive inhabitants were numerous Yellow Bitterns, at least two Cinnamon Bitterns, Philippine Swamphens and White-browed Crake. Although most wintering wildfowl had already departed the endemic Philippine Ducks were still present and even more impressive was the Taiga Bean Goose – a new bird for the Philippines!

 

Siberian Rubythroat at Candaba Marsh and Blue-throated Bee-eater at Subic Bay, Luzon

 

Taiga Bean Goose (1st record for the Philippines) and Striated Grassbird, Luzon                     

Whiskered Terns hawked nearby while the shallower parts attracted Black-winged Stilt and smart Pheasant-tailed Jacana. The excitement wasn’t just confined to the marsh as both Barred Rail and the endemic (and very difficult) Plain Bush-hen paraded on the nearby track and the nearby scrub held many Striated Grassbirds, Pied Bushchat, Pied Fantails, Philippine and Red Collared Doves, Peaceful Dove, a pair of Golden-bellied Gerygone perching right overhead, and a stunning and very obliging Siberian Rubythroat!
After a hearty English breakfast nearby we headed west to Subic Bay, where our quiet and very comfortable hotel (complete with four-poster beds!) was to be our home for the next 2 nights. Subic Bay was formerly home to an American naval base which has created an excellent birding area where the birds have been protected from hunting and are abundant and showy, and the forest is easily accessed on the many roads of the former naval magazine which criss-cross the area. Our full day and two half days here gave us plenty of time to explore all the areas with some relaxed and enjoyable birding. The forest here is rather open with a high proportion of dead trees and this makes it something of mecca for woodpeckers. We saw them regularly during our stay ranging from the diminutive Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker to the massive White-bellied Woodpecker and also included Luzon Flameback and Northern Sooty Woodpecker. The open nature of the forest here also makes it easy to get good views of many other birds and we found Green Imperial Pigeon, Philippine Green Pigeon and White-eared Brown Dove to be common, the scarce Yellow-breasted Fruit Dove also put in a brief appearance, Luzon Hornbills showed nicely a few times, and a delightful Whiskered Treeswift perched at close range, keeping a close eye on its well-grown youngster nearby. Coleto, Coppersmith Barbet and Philippine Falconet were frequently found perched on dead snags as was the Stripe-headed Rhabdornis on one occasion – the Rhabdornis being a bird family endemic to the Philippines.

 

Amethyst Brown Dove and Subic Bay and Long-tailed Shrike in the car park of motorway Service Station!                                                                         © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Bar-bellied Cuckooshrikes are particularly numerous, while Blackish Cuckooshrikes were also frequently seen and as we were able to enjoy wonderful views of colourful Blue-throated Bee-eaters, particularly when we stopped to see one of their breeding colonies in a roadside earth bank. Parrots are quite common at Subic and Guaiabero were frequently heard and seen – often whizzing overhead but sometimes perched for good views. Colasisi was scarcer with just one sighting but Blue-naped Parrot was seen well several times and we were able to enjoy several excellent views of Green Racquet-tails, complete with racquets!
Some of the birds here are a little more elusive and we found Red Junglefowls only in the early morning when they ventured onto the roads to feed. Rufous Coucals love to hide in bamboo scrub but we nevertheless had good views of some noisy groups and by venturing into the forest and some nice wide trails we found some of Subic’s rarer inhabitants including no less than 6 Amethyst Brown Doves on one walk, Philippine Fairy Bluebird, Red-crested Malkoha, a brief Scale-feathered Malkoha, and after quite a battle as they moved through the canopy, excellent looks at White-lored Oriole.
There was also plenty of action overhead with many Island and Grey-rumped Swiftlets, Brahminy Kite, Philippine Serpent Eagle and a single sighting of the localised Luzon Hawk Eagle.

After returning to Manila for a comfortable overnight stay in the heart of this sprawling metropolis we made the short transfer to the airport the next morning and flew south-west to the tropical island paradise of Palawan.
Two enjoyable visits to Garceliano Beach made for pleasant birding during the rest of the day. On the exposed mudflats we found a nice selection of waders including some special oriental specialities like Red-necked Stint and Grey-tailed Tattler alongside more familiar British species like Whimbrel and Ruddy Turnstone. A good selection of egrets feeding here included nice comparisons between the potentially confusing Pacific Reef Egrets and the endangered Chinese Egret. The excitement here wasn’t confined to the shore though and other bonus species included nice views of Palawan Drongo, Rufous-tailed Tailorbird, Brown-throated Sunbird, Common Iora, Black-headed Bulbul, Olive-winged Bulbul, an obliging Plaintive Cuckoo and a flyover Peregrine Falcon. The day finished with a Spotted Wood Owl calling from nearby gardens then flying over the road.
After breakfast the next morning we headed to one of the more unlikely birding destinations in the Philippines, the open-prison at Iwahig. Our morning walk along an easy path and following the course of the crystal-clear Balsahan River. There were plenty of birds around including the an obliging pair of the endemic Ashy-headed Babbler, endemic Yellow-throated Leafbird, a pair of Palawan Blue Flycatchers, and a Pechora Pipit sneaking along the trail ahead of us. Others like lumbering Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, a beautiful Hooded Pitta perched up right in front of the whole group, and two brightly coloured kingfishers, the tiny Rufous-backed Kingfisher darting through the understory and the striking Ruddy Kingfisher doing likewise in the canopy. Keeping an eye skywards wasn’t wasted either as both Crested Serpent Eagle and Oriental Honey Buzzard were logged overhead.

 

Oriental Whipsnake  and Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker, Subic Bay, Luzon

 

Adult (left) and juvenile Whiskered Treeswifts, Subic Bay, Luzon     © Rob Hutchinson

The nearby rice field had another nice selection of waders with the familiar Greenshank, Little Ringed Plover and Wood Sandpipers joined by Long-toed Stints and several Swinhoe’s Snipe. Highlight though were a loose group of 11 Oriental Pratincoles and as we went to leave a female Watercock parading in the open around a roadside pond!
After lunch back at our hotel we set out for an afternoon drive, traversing the island to our ultimate destination of Sabang where we stayed in a truly luxurious boutique resort set on the picturesque white beach right at the edge of St Paul’s National Park. On the way we stopped for some relaxed roadside birding which was to be our favourite form of birding over the next few days since the open nature of the forest made birds abundant and easy to view. Birds seen during these sessions included such specialities as Palawan Tits, Palawan Hornbills, two separate sightings of a pair of critically endangered Philippine Cockatoo’s, Philippine Cuckoo Dove, Palawan Crow, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Fiery Minivet, Crested Goshawk overhead and both White-browed Crake and no less than seven cryptic Greater Painted Snipe in the roadside paddy fields.

 

Lovely Sunbird and Palawan Peacock Pheasant, Palawan

 

Malaysian Plover and Oriental Pratincole, Palawan                    © Rob Hutchinson

A different walk through open hills near the coast was equally rewarding with Common Dollarbird, Asian Drongo Cuckoo, Spot-throated Flameback new additions as well as good numbers of the Palawan endemic Blue-headed Racquet-tail and a nicely perched immature Chinese Goshawk which provided a nice education in the confusing identification of many Asian accipiters.
On one morning we took traditional banca boats along the beautiful forested, limestone, coastline to the famous underground river. Birds on show here included several Tabon Scrubfowl and most importantly the decidedly showy male Palawan Peacock Pheasant, who has become a true star since becoming rather habituated to humans and delighted us all again. Also in the area were many lumbering Water Monitors and cheeky Long-tailed Macaques, while most took the boat ride along the spectacular underground river (the longest of its kind in the world) where a thrilling selection of bats and nesting swiftlets were seen.
Moving on to another part of the park we were able to enjoy more close views of Lovely Sunbird, Sulphur-bellied and Grey-cheeked Bulbuls, Yellow-throated Leafbirds and some showy White-vented Shamas. The same afternoon we wandered down the tropical beach to enjoy great views of the resident pair of Malaysian Plover which performed nicely.
Upon leaving Sabang we had more or less a travelling day as we returned to Puerto Princesa for a flight back to Manila and after lunch continued to our resort hotel on the shore of Laguna de Bay, the largest lake in the Philippines.
The next morning we began with a truly Filipino experience – a ride in a Jeepney! One of these unique vehicles took us easily along the bumpy track up Mount Makiling, great fun and saving us from an uphill walk! Making the most of the early morning we set about finding the special birds of the mountain and they don’t come much more special than the Spotted Wood Kingfishers which soon appeared nearby, resplendent with golden-spangled upperparts, and black bandit mask framed by a green and blue crown, orange throat and face with turquoise cheeks. Shortly afterwards we found another target by way of a colourful Philippine Trogon and as we continued along the track a Flaming Sunbird appeared to feed on the favourite roadside flowers, a skulking White-browed Sharma in the understory, several Red-crested Malkoha and a Luzon Hornbill passed through, then at least two Scale-feathered Malkoha – one of the most impressive members of this special family – appeared nearby for fine views. Other species found during the morning included Arctic Warbler and Grey-backed Tailorbirds both feeding in the tangles, White-eared Brown Dove, an immature Yellow-breasted Fruit Dove, another Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker and nice views of Stripe-headed Rhabdornis.

 

Chinese Goshawk and Hooded Pitta, Palawan    © Rob Hutchinson

The birds even kept us entertained over lunch with White-browed Crake and White-breasted Waterhen feeding near our lake-side restaurant then the afternoon saw a change of scenery and some very relaxed birding. Beginning on the well-wooded university campus the endemic Lowland White-eye was new but an obliging White-throated Kingfisher stole the show and both House and Asian Palm Swifts performed overhead. Moving on to a nearby grassland area our good form continued with many Blue-tailed Bee-eaters performing acrobatics overhead and down on the deck, both Barred and Spotted Buttonquails came out to play in the late afternoon, allowing ‘scope views for all.
Our final morning in the forest was unusually quiet with only a Philippine Serpent Eagle circling overhead another White-browed Shama, more Stripe-headed Rhabdornis and an Oriental Cuckoo of note before our final endemic of the trip in the form of an Elegant Tit at the forest edge. Then in the afternoon it was time to head back to Manila and complete our birding with a visit to the American War Cemetery, an educational and humbling experience, and sightings of Golden-bellied Gerygone and Barred Rail to boot.

 

Spotted Wood Kingfisher and White-throated Kingfisher, Luzon

 

Flaming Sunbird and White-browed Shama, Luzon     © Rob Hutchinson

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For further information on Birdtour Asia tours to the Philippines please contact us via our e-mail or click here for our scheduled departure tours.

Sunset at Subic Bay, Luzon                                      © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia