Birdtour Asia Sabah, Borneo tour July 2008

Sabah, Borneo

28th June – 11th July 2008

Leader: Rob Hutchinson

Participants: Chuck Almdale, Hemme Batjes, Ashby Chadburn,
Jim Fritzhand, Lillian Johnson and Chris Straw

Blue-banded Pitta, Danum Valley © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

With a host of spectacular birds, great habitats and comfortable accommodations throughout it is easy to see why Borneo is one of our most popular tour destinations.
This 2008 scheduled tour again produced an excellent harvest of birds headed by some very special and spectacular endemics; Bristlehead, Bornean Ground Cuckoo, Fruit-hunter, Kinabalu Friendly Warbler, the ‘Whitehead’s Trio’ of Trogon, Spiderhunter and Broadbill, all three endemic Wren Babblers, ‘Bornean’ Banded Pitta, Black-crowned Pitta, Blue-headed Pitta and a particularly stunning Blue-banded Pitta which stole the ‘Bird of the trip’ vote, amid strong competition! These are of course just the pinnacle of the 43 Bornean endemics seen and there were many more great birds among the 288 species encountered; our tally of 8 hornbill species included particularly unforgettable encounters with White-crowned and Helmeted, while Giant Pitta, White-necked Babbler, Chestnut-capped Thrush, Reddish Scops Owl, Bat Hawk and Storm’s Stork were especially noteworthy.
Additionally our tally of more than 30 mammals included the obligatory Orang-utan, Leopard Cat, Colugo, Bornean Gibbon and Binturong.

Our first afternoon exploring the mangroves and wetlands of nearby Likas Bay proved an excellent introduction with several trip exclusives recorded. In a well-preserved Mangrove tract we had nice views of Pink-necked Green Pigeons, Blue-eared Kingfisher, Pied Triller, Dark-necked and Ashy Tailorbirds, Zebra Dove, Brown-throated Sunbird, Olive-backed Sunbird and some wacky juvenile Purple Herons. Nearby wetlands yielded nice scope portraits of Striated Grassbird, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Black-backed Swamphen, White-browed Crake and Cinnamon Bittern. In the fine weather we also enjoyed clear views of the towering granite massif of Mount Kinabalu whetting our appetite for adventures later in the trip.

Early the next morning we flew east across Sabah, overflying some fantastic areas of forest but also large areas of conflicting oil-palm plantations, undoubtedly a great threat to the amazing biodiversity of Borneo. Upon landing at Sandakan airport we headed immediately for the forest at nearby Sepilok where a quick walk didn’t fulfil our dream of early Bristlehead success but did give us Hairy-backed Bulbul, Pale Blue Flycatcher, Red-throated Sunbird, Purple-naped Sunbird, Large Woodshrike, a fine female Red-naped Trogon posing in the telescope and mind-blowing point-blank views of a cute Black-and-yellow Broadbill.
Continuing onwards our next stop gave instant success as a pair of nesting Bat Hawks performed beautifully for all as a Crested Serpent Eagle and three Lesser Adjutants circled overhead. The nearby forest treated us to Red-throated Barbet, Blue-eared Barbet and a bunch of Buff-necked Woodpeckers foraging at close range near the forest floor. A wander around the famous Gomantong Caves was a wonderful spectacle, the huge caverns home hundreds of thousands of bats and swiftlets. By virtue of their distinctive nest structures we identified four species of swiftlet; Glossy, Black-nest, Mossy-nest and Edible-nest. We also marvelled at the rickety bamboo ladders used to sustainably harvest the nests of the Edible-nest Swiftlets – a highly profitable business, to feed the Chinese-driven demand for this commodity. Upon exiting the caves things got even better with a fine male Orang-utan teed up in the telescope as he gorged from a favoured fruiting tree.

Buffy Fish Owl, Kinabatangan River Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Sepilok

After lunch at our secluded lodge on the mighty Kinabatangan River we set out for our first exploration by boat noting Wallace’s Hawk Eagle, Oriental Pied Hornbill, Black Hornbill, Wrinkled Hornbill, ‘Bornean’ Brown Barbet, Puff-backed Bulbul and White-chested Babbler before heavy rain bought the days birding to a torrential end!
The next morning started in style with an obliging Storm Stork on a forest pond by the lodge over breakfast, the first of several seen during the next two days.
Along the main river and a quiet tributary we found Jerdon’s Baza, Little Green Pigeon, Bornean Black Magpie, Common Hill Myna, Rhinoceros Hornbill, White-crowned Hornbill and three more Wrinkled Hornbills.
Moving downriver to another productive tributary we added Malaysian Blue Flycatcher, White-chested Babbler and our first Bornean Spiderhunter as we searched hard for the elusive Bornean Ground-Cuckoo. We tried several spots before finally getting a distant vocal response from the ground cuckoo whereupon we settled in the shadows of the river bank and continued to call as they approached the river. Soon that were calling oh-so-close but try as we might we couldn’t tease out views as they remained hidden just inside the forest. Intently we scanned as the pair of birds called happily for more than an hour. Only Rob obtained views while trying unsuccessfully to shepherd the birds on foot to the shore. As yet more time passed another pair of ground cuckoos began to call on the opposite side of the river and we switched our attention in the hope that these birds might be more cooperative. The new pair also quickly approached but again remained stubbornly hidden. As more time passed we determinedly persisted into our lunch hour as no less than four ground cuckoo’s called all around us! Our effort was finally rewarded when a pair of ground cuckoo’s finally hurried across the forest floor towards us, then after more hidden calling, most of the group obtained views as first one, and then the other dropped from their calling perches onto the open forest floor. Amazingly this was the ninth successive Birdtour Asia tour to record this enigmatic species!
On our evening spot-lighting trip we found several fine Buffy Fish Owls staring back at us with piercing yellow eyes. Roosting day birds were also found; Stork-billed Kingfisher, Black-and-red Broadbill and a highly-appreciated Blue-eared Kingfisher – what a gem!
Our final attempt for the improved ground cuckoo view the next morning only yielded distant calling birds but we did find our only White-fronted Falconet of the tour perched quietly in a river-side tree, and an amazing encounter with a Helmeted Hornbill pair, with several perched and flight views culminating in a bird giving its amazing call from right overhead. Out of the world, and undoubtedly a tour highlight.
Also during the morning were more views of White-crowned Hornbill and Long-tailed Parakeet, while Oriental Honey Buzzard, Lesser Fish Eagle and Grey-headed Fish Eagle were new additions.
In the afternoon we made our way south to Lahad Datu and then headed inland towards Danum Valley on roads heavily rutted in a few places by recent heavy rains which results in one particularly entertaining episode with a series of heavily stuck vehicles which was fortuitously quickly resolved.

Black-and-red Broadbill and Blue-eared Kingfisher, Kinabatangan River
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

In the evening we arrived at the very comfortable Borneo Rainforest Lodge, idyllically situated in a beautiful river valley on the edge of the Danum Valley Conservation area. Danum Valley is one of the largest tracts of protected lowland forest in Sabah and it was with eager anticipation that we headed out the next morning with a host of endemics and other special birds as targets.
As we walked out from the lodge new birds came thick and fast. A diminutive Black-backed Kingfisher allowed us all exceptional telescope views followed by a Short-tailed Babbler which offered particularly good views as this usually skulking bird hopped around in open view on the roadside verge. More excellent roadside birding found a pair of Diard’s Trogon, Red-bearded Bee-eater and a surprise Finsch’s Bulbul in a fruiting tree. A short while later the distinctive two-note whistle of a Bornean Ground Babbler drew attention and in no time we were enjoying this striking tail-less creature at close range. Simultaneously another difficult Bornean endemic began calling, this time a Black-throated Wren Babbler. Warnings from the leader of a skulking bird which might require sharp eyes to spot proved unfounded as this individual responded to a short blast of playback by flying immediately to an open branch where it performed impeccably, singing and showing itself from all angles. What a start!
Upon hitting the forest trails we had a narrow miss with a Blue-headed Pitta which showed only to Rob before disappearing but we soon made amends with a more cooperative bird which offered great views of what is surely one of the most stunning pittas with an unbeatable combination of navy blue, maroon and black and white plumaged topped with a striking powder-blue cap.
These were just the highlights of course and our harvest for the morning also included Crested Jay, Fluffy-backed Tit Babbler, a male Bornean Blue Flycatcher, Large-billed Blue Flycatcher, several Rufous Piculet, Spotted Fantail, Buff-rumped Woodpecker, Grey-and-buff Woodpecker and Scarlet-rumped Trogon. Hornbills abound with Rhinoceros particularly abundant and the addition of Wreathed Hornbill and a raucous group of Bushy-crested Hornbills completed our tally of 8 hornbill species possible on the tour.
In the afternoon we made our first visit to the famous Danum canopy walkway – this immense suspended walkway reaches 40 metres into the forest canopy, providing an amazing insight into this little-seen world. We marvelled as amazing eye-level views of many species here and also added a Yellow-crowned Barbet in the loftiest trees.
The evening night-drive found a huge hairy Binturong in a fruiting tree, Masked Palm Civet and nice looks at Thomas’s and Giant Red Flying Squirrels.

The next morning was spent along the lodge entrance road and we again added some great birds. A big surprise was prolonged views of a pair of singing White-necked Babblers – a rarely seen lowland specialty. Also in the forest we found Rufous-collared Kingfisher which posed beautifully for all and we completed our set of lowland wren babblers with an obliging Striped Wren Babbler which was much less skittish than usual allowing all to appreciate this striking bird. Returning to the lodge via the forest trails we found our first Red-naped Trogon, Chestnut-backed Scimitar Babbler and a privileged encounter with a mother-and-baby Orang-utan.
Our afternoon walk out towards the canopy walkway was delayed somewhat by a Red-throated Barbet which eventually showed in the scope. This delay was probably fortuitous as we soon heard the distinctive mewing and screeching of Bristleheads from the road ahead. Moments of stress ensued (for the leader at least!) before this most wanted bird was located high in the canopy. More appeared and three birds proceeded to behave impeccably, flying closer until they were feeding just overhead, then posing atop a nearby tree for all to enjoy great telescope views – a great encounter with an amazing bird which more than justified its second place in the ‘bird of the trip’ vote. On our way back to the lodge we added Banded Broadbill to our tally then a pair of Bornean Crested Firebacks with distinctive orange tails were feeding close to the chalets in the evening.

Black-throated Wren Babbler and Brown Wood Owl, Danum Valley
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Rufous-collared Kingfisher and male Giant Pitta, Danum Valley
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

The morning of the next day again concentrated on the trails near the lodge. We began with Blue-eared Barbet and Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker both performing for the whole group along the road then a calling Black-crowned Pitta demanded some more intense searching. It didn’t give itself up easily as we had to follow it all the way to the gully bottom before getting views but the effort was then rewarded with superb close-range studies of this jewel, with red belly, blue-wing coverts and sparkling blue head-stripe lighting up the forest floor. Jim who opted not to follow was treated to equally stunning views of a female Blue-headed Pitta which fed out on the main trail. Another trail then gave a pair of Red-naped Trogon, two male Large-billed Blue Flycatchers and a rather furtive pair of Rufous-chested Flycatchers.
Excellent spotting by Hemme and Chris during lunch allowed us all to enjoy a perfectly camouflaged Colugo (aka Flying Lemur) with young close to our cabins. The lodge area also held a brief Great-billed Heron on the nearby river and some found Pygmy Ibon in a favourite flowering tree near the restaurant.
The afternoon was again spent on the entrance road with a frustrating Blue-banded Pitta which called at close range but only briefly.

In the evening a night-spotting walk needed little effort (two minutes in fact!) to find an obliging Brown Wood Owl, and a relatively early night was appreciated!
Most of the group opted for a return to the entrance road on our final morning and the effort was very well rewarded. A short distance into the forest we heard a Giant Pitta which seemed to come closer but as we watched intently only one person had a glimpse before the birds became silent again. We waited patiently however and as hoped the birds eventually called again having approached us silently to investigate. They were now very responsive and we had great views of a pair of these huge pittas as they performed close by.
We continued exploring and when we were least expecting there was a Blue-banded Pitta suddenly calling close by. With all our attention focussed this jewel of the forest was soon found, perched and calling from just above the ground – an exquisite combination of green back, orange-red underparts and a sparkling blue ‘necklace’ across the breast. Amazingly we had encountered two of Asia’s most elusive and desirable pittas in the space of an hour and the blue-banded was unsurprisingly voted top in the ‘bird of the trip’ vote.
We were not finished yet as there was still time to add Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher and another Large-billed Blue Flycatcher before heading back to Lahad Datu after lunch and flying back to Kota Kinabalu for an overnight stay.

Bornean Banded Pitta, Poring Hot Springs and Wrinkled Hornbill, Kinabatangan River
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

We set out early the next morning to arrive at the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve by dawn. The roadside birding at this mid-elevation site offers chances at several species not possible or difficult elsewhere in Sabah. Shortly after dawn a Whitehead’s Broadbill was heard but couldn’t be tempted in to view. A Fruithunter was more obliging, returning several times to a favoured fruiting tree for all to savour. Bird activity was high and perched Blyth’s Hawk Eagle, Mountain Barbet, Golden-naped Barbet and Bornean Barbet were added in quick succession. Two recently split bulbuls also showed well; Cinereous Bulbul (split from Ashy) and the endemic Bornean Bulbul (split from Black-crested Bulbul).
Later in the morning we found a superb and obliging Whitehead’s Spiderhunter – one of the most distinctive members of this family, showing striking brown and white striped plumage contrasting with bright yellow rump and undertail. We also finally tracked down a group of Bornean Leafbirds unfortunately only managing flight views but after brief flight views of an immature Mountain Serpent Eagle, a calling adult of that species performed much better, perched openly in the telescope.
Other species added included Yellow-bellied Warbler, Yellow-breasted Warbler, Black-sided Flowerpecker, Black-capped White-eyes, Bornean Treepie and Black-and-crimson Oriole.
It was soon time to head for the mighty Mount Kinabalu and there we enjoyed lunch overlooking the magnificent mossy forests. In fine weather we opted for an afternoon assault on the summit trail. This easily produced Sunda Bush Warbler, Mountain Leaf Warbler and close views of Mountain Black-eye – a high-altitude Bornean endemic but unfortunately the weather closed in soon afterwards thus thwarting our chances of finding Kinabalu Friendly Warbler although our first Eye-browed Jungle Flycatcher (another endemic!) was some compensation.

We began the next morning with Bornean Whistling Thrush and Grey-throated Babblers at the top of the drivable road. A stealthy early morning walk along a nearby trail gave good views of a Red-breasted Partridge which we teased out onto the trail ahead of us. A charming pair of Mountain Wren Babblers completed our endemic wren babbler trio. After a hearty breakfast we spent the remainder of the morning along a good trail through beautiful tall mountain forest. A calling Whitehead’s Broadbill again frustrated before a mixed feeding flock provided excitement, containing Sunda Cuckooshrike, a stunning Crimson-winged Woodpecker, and the rather less attractive Bare-headed Laughingthrush lurching in a mixed flock of the commoner Rufous-hooded and Sunda Laughingthrushes. A whole party of Short-tailed Magpies showed well and we found yet another Eye-browed Jungle Flycatcher which was delightfully confiding. Our afternoon was spent exploring several of the shorter trails but was typically quieter than the morning, we enjoyed views of several of the more widespread species plus Bornean Whistler and a nice group of Pale-faced Bulbuls in rank grass by the roadside – a popular split from Flavescent Bulbul, which is thus endemic to the mountains of Borneo.
A relaxed walk around the lower sections of the road system began the next morning and we all eventually had satisfactory views of some elusive Temminck’s Babblers. Over breakfast we had wonderful views of an endemic Whitehead’s Pygmy Squirrel, with cute white ear-tufts, feeding from the restaurant balcony. After breakfast we explored some different trails, concentrating where other birders had seen a Whitehead’s Trogon family the previous day, but unfortunately despite lots of effort and intense scanning we could not repeat that success (just yet!).
In the afternoon we persisted on a favoured trail which has consistently paid dividends on previous tours and we were greatly rewarded when the gently cackling calls of a Whitehead’s Broadbill finally led us to track down this huge green broadbill and this time he behaved beautifully, allowing scope studies and even photographs of the amazing irredescent green plumage, liberally sprinkled with black spotting. Those with sufficient energy finished the day with a visit to a Brown Wood Owl stake-out where we were surprised to see another pair of Whitehead’s Broadbills, albeit not such stunning views as a few hours before. Well before dusk the wood owls began to call and we saw a pair, here of the race vaga which has distinct vocalisations in comparison to birds from lowland Borneo and seems more appropriately included within Bartel’s Wood Owl of montane Java, Indonesia.

An early start the following morning found us at Poring Hot Spring on the lower subtropical slopes of Mount Kinabalu National Park. As we began our walk up the trail in the half light of dawn we had a big surprise in the form of an adult Reddish Scops Owl feeding a noisy juvenile alongside the trail. Further along the trail a female White-tailed Blue Flycatcher appeared all too briefly and Grey-headed Babblers gave reasonable views to some but frustrated others for the time being. As we continued a most unexpected Chestnut-capped Thrush appeared in a nearby tree but disappeared quickly. Fortune shines however as first one bird, then a pair appeared again and gave outstanding views. This zoothera is widespread in its range but highly elusive and we were ecstatic with such good views. The remainder of the morning gave a good bird harvest including excellent views for all of those Grey-headed Babbler, Rusty-breasted Cuckoo (a scarce species in Borneo), Gold-whiskered Barbet, Rufous-fronted Babbler, Thick-billed and Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker, Brown Fulvetta and White-bellied Erpornis. We also all enjoyed quite stunning views of a Bornean Banded Pitta at close range, admiring the distinctive yellow underparts with delicate black barring, a separating this popular ‘unofficial’ split from counterparts on Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula along with the equally distinctive birds on Java and Bali.
Afternoon again saw us on the higher reaches of the mountain and again we hit the trails despite uninviting fog lingering. The weather conditions meant a very quiet forest but this didn’t bother us at all when we stumbled across at least three Whitehead’s Trogon, presumably a family group, and enjoyed great views with one particularly obliging female giving prolonged views as she excitedly spread and pumped her tail. Finally we had completed the much-desired ‘Whitehead’s trio’ of Broadbill, Spiderhunter and Trogon and all the effort was instantly worthwhile! The same trail produced another brief sighting of Red-breasted partridges before we happily retired for the day to celebrate our success.
We began our final morning with another attempt to find the elusive Everett’s Thrush but again had no sniff of this elusive creature. We did again find Pale-faced Bulbul feeding by the roadside and a fine Kinabalu Squirrel was admired in a fruiting tree. After breakfast we again hiked the start of the summit trail up the mountain. Several Mountain Black-eyes appeared, as did a surprise Island Thrush. Our first vocal encounter with a Kinabalu Friendly Warbler was rather distant and couldn’t be tempted closer but pushing onwards we found another calling bird which despite hundreds of noisy Japanese hikers was lured in to sight for fantastic close views – friendly indeed!
After lunch the fine weather held out just long enough for us to add our final endemic – a diminutive Bornean Stubtail – and it was a happy group which made its way back to a rainy Kota Kinabalu, dodging several flooded roads, for a fantastic good-bye meal.

We recorded a total of 288 species of which 13 were heard only. This total included 44 species endemic to Borneo.

Click here to view the Systematic Bird List

Click here to download the report as a pdf

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