Sabah, Borneo

27th June - 10th July 2010

Leader: Rob Hutchinson

Participants: Bill Atwood, Chris Farman, Mandy Farman,
Martin Lindop, Louise Little, Wayne Merritt

Whitehead’s Broadbill, Mount Kinabalu       © Robert Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia

Borneo with its ideal combination of fantastic and varied habitats, exciting endemics, interesting mammals and confortable accommodation is justly acknowledged as one of the ultimate Asian birding destination and the participants on the first scheduled tour of 2010 were not disappointed. The weather systems this year were heavily influenced by the La nina phenomenon which meant that little rainfall had fallen during the ‘wet season’ and birds were consequently rather quiet which made of haul of endemics and other specialties particularly impressive. It is always difficult to pick highlights but the strawberry-headed Bristleheads at Sepilok, magnificent hornbills along the Kinabatangan River, stunning pittas and awesome displaying Great Argus at Danum Valley certainly stand out, while in the mountains we found the ‘Whitehead’s trio’ with unusual ease, Hose’s Broadbill made the sweaty walk at poring worthwhile and an Everett’s Thrush on Mount Kinabalu repaid our efforts with point-blank views.

A change in the schedule of our tours this year saw us heading straight across Sabah on our first day, to begin our Bornean exploration at Sepilok on the north-east side of the state. The forest reserve at Sepilok is most famous for its Orang-utan rehabilitation centre but the forest chunk which it protects is also a great birding spot and the extra time spent here was certainly profitable. Arriving in Sepilok, even the surrounds of our resort were alive with birds and Plaintive Cuckoo, Yellow-eared and Little Spiderhunters and Changeable Hawk Eagle were all noted before we tore ourselves away to the real forest. A recently constructed canopy walkway is a real boon for birders giving excellent views out through the secondary forest, and it was here that we settled for the afternoon. As this was our first afternoon in the country there were many new birds and among the numerous bulbuls and other common species were some real treats; our first of several widespread species appeared including Raffle’s Malkoha, Black Hornbills, Green Imperial Pigeons, Greater Racquet-tailed Drongo, Greater and Lesser Green Leafbirds, Blue-eared Barbet and Fiery Minivets. Silver-rumped Needletails circled through the forest clearing while Brown-backed Needletails gave spectacular views over the nearby lake, while our first Common Hill Myna, Long-tailed Parakeet and Blue-crowned Hanging Parrots passed overhead. We also made a good start on our endemic tally with sightings of Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker and Brown Barbet but the highlights were undoubtedly the showy Black-and-yellow Broadbill followed by the equally attractive Banded Broadbill. We finished the day by attracting in a beautiful male Rufous-collared Kingfisher before we retired to reflect on a great start.

 

Bristlehead and Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Sepilok         © Robert Hutchinson

One of our major targets at Sepilok is the enigmatic Bristlehead which had been notably absent the previous afternoon. Worried that they might have been disturbed by ongoing work around the walkway we used our local knowledge to head to some other favoured haunts. This different area was very productive and we added Bornean Black Magpie, Red-billed Malkoha, Green Iora, Hair-backed Bulbul, Puff-backed Bulbul, Black-crowned Babbler and a female Red-bearded Bee-eater here, with both Black-crowned Pitta and Barred Eagle Owl sadly heard only.
As the deadline for our departure grew close, most had given up hope of the Bristlehead when Rob picked out a single, distant call. With all eyes focused towards the source of the sound we soon found first one then two Bristleheads. The views were fine but were about to get much better as they swooped low towards us and perched in the large tree right beside us. Now we could enjoy unadulterated views of the strawberry-red head contrasting with black body, whispy yellow hair and large black wart on the side of the head. An absolutely unique bird and certainly one of Borneo’s finest!
Now we could make our way happily towards our next destination. Our next stop was a stake-out for Bat Hawk, a pair of which sat happily in their nesting tree before we continued to the magnificent Gomantong Cave where we braved the cockroach-infested interior to observe the huge throngs of roosting bats and nesting swiftlets. Four species of swiftlet breed here and this is by far the best place to see them since the ‘nest swiftlets’ are rather similar in appearance yet differ greatly in their nest construction. Glossy Swiftlets are easy to locating, nesting near the cave entrance because they are unable to eco-locate.
In the cave interior we found numerous nest of Black-nest Swiftlets, the vegetated nests of Mossy-nest Swiftlets and after some searching, the pearly-white nests of the Edible-nest Swiftlet. The later part of a lucrative industry supplying the Chinese market for the strangely-popular ‘birds nest soup’. In the nearby forest we found Buff-necked Woodpecker and more Black-and-yellow Broadbills before continuing on our way to the quay and a quick boat transfer to our lodge on the banks of the Kinabatangan River which was delayed slightly by a Lesser Adjutant circling overhead.
The richness of the Kinabatangan River and the ease of exploration by boat make this a great birding destination and during our four boat day-time boat excursions over the next two days we built up a great list. The open nature of the river makes it ideal for scanning the treetops this helped us fine six spectacular species of hornbill including the rare Wrinkled Hornbill, Common Dollarbird, Little Green Pigeons, Blue-eared Barbet, Buff-rumped Woodpecker and a single fly-over Violet Cuckoo. It is also no surprise that many raptors showed up and these included frequent sightings of Crested Serpent Eagle and Lesser Fish Eagle and odd sightings of Jerdon’s Baza, Oriental Honey Buzzard, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Rufous-bellied Eagle and Wallace’s Hawk Eagle.
Other more secretive birds frequented the shady river banks; White-chested Babbler, Ashy and Rufous-tailed Tailorbirds, Malaysian Blue Flycatchers, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Blue-throated Bee-eaters, Blue-eared and Rufous-backed Kingfishers and the immense Stork-billed Kingfisher. Even the surrounds of our lodge gave much excitement with endemic White-crowned Shama frequent visitors and those who spent their lunch time breaks on the trails found a family of Maroon-breasted Philentoma and a Brown Wood Owl with two young.

 

Buffy Fish and Brown Wood Owls, Kinabatangan River        © Robert Hutchinson

 

Wrinkled Hornbill and ‘Bornean’ Crested Fireback             © Robert Hutchinson

One of the big specialities along the river is the Bornean Ground Cuckoo but this has been a particular difficult year to see them and although we heard them calling at quite close range the only sighting we had was one flying across the river in front of our boat... for those looking in the right direction! Other particularly exciting sightings included two Hooded Pittas eventually seen well by all, good views of Long-tailed Parakeets, our first Red-naped Trogon, diminutive Rufous Piculet, a stunning group of Bornean Firebacks that appeared on the river bank, more Bornean Black Magpies and best of all the unpredictable White-fronted Falconet perched atop a dead snag and entertaining us with frequent sorties to catch dragonflies.
On one evening we headed out onto the river for a spot-lighting boat cruise enjoying great views of Buffy Fish Owls and Black-and-red Broadbills and Blue-eared Kingfishers at their roosts.
All too soon it was time to head to our next destination, although it was easier to drag ourselves away knowing that we were heading to Danum Valley – one of the ultimate lowland rainforest destinations in south-east Asia! The drive took us much of the afternoon but the road in passes through some good secondary forest and we made several short stops to see Wreathed Hornbills and Whiskered Treeswifts, then a particularly productive last stop with a male Banded Kingfisher by the roadside.
Just before dusk we arrived at our base for the next four nights, the very comfortable and idyllically situated Borneo Rainforest Lodge. The lodge is situated alongside a river in the heart of the rainforest and a well maintained trail system gives plentiful access to the surrounding forest.
Over the next three and a half days we covered many of these trails and enjoyed a spectacular array of lowland rainforest birds. The numerous babbler and bulbuls included such favourites as Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler and Yellow-bellied Bulbul. The interior forest trails provided some of the most rewarding birding including three species of colourful trogon – Red-naped, Diards and Scarlet-rumped, Rufous-backed Kingfisher, Rufous Piculet, Maroon and Orange-backed Woodpecker, Rufous-winged Philentoma and Spotted Fantail.

 

Great Argus and Bornean Banded Pitta, Danum Valley                 © Robert Hutchinson

Of course though, our attention was often focused on finding the rarer denizens of the forest and this was very successful. Perhaps the most desirable birds here are the pittas and these were a big target. Fortunately they mostly performed well for us. No less then five individual Blue-headed Pittas were seen including a male which nonchalantly hopped along the trail ahead of us, and a Black-crowned Pitta which hopped up in front of us after something of a battle and blew us away with its cobalt-blue wing patch illuminating the gloomy forest interior. The recently split Bornean Banded Pitta twice gave great views, easily convincing everyone of their distinctiveness. Other skulkers included Bornean Ground Babbler which called at close range but showed only briefly, Striped Wren Babblers which have much more prolonged views and a superb pair of Black-throated Wren Babblers which eventually posed opening as their duet rang out through the forest.
Other special species on the trails included a cracking male Jambu Fruit Dove (one of several heard), two separate sightings of Malaysian Hawk Cuckoos, Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher, Large-billed Blue Flycatcher and Bornean Blue Flycatcher. Wacky Crested Jays eventually performed after teasing us for some days, the often elusive Rufous-tailed Shama turned up during one of our off-piste pitta hunts and a Chestnut-naped Forktail appeared just in the nick of time as we staked out a favourite forest pond. The absolute highlight however – and ultimately voted as bird-of-the-tour – was the magnificent male Great Argus who strutted unconcerned around his dancing ground and frequently launched into full display with his huge tail held high over his head, as we watched from just meters away.
A major attraction at Danum is the impressive canopy walkway which stretches right across a forest valley and gives a unique insight into life in the treetops more than 40 meters above the forest floor. We spent much time here in the afternoons and enjoyed some excellent birding with Thick-billed Green Pigeon, another Jambu Fruit Dove, three sightings of Blue-rumped Parrot, Black-and-white Bulbul, Banded Bay Cuckoo, Bornean Black Magpies, Red-bearded Bee-eaters and great eye-level views of a host of commoner species such as leafbirds, broadbills, malkoha, Scarlet Minivet, Black-winged Flycatcher Shrike, Green Iora, Rufous-fronted Babbler and Asian Paradise Flycatcher. The walkway and the open forest along the road also gave our best chances at barbets which were typically elusive as they bleated out their repetitive songs from the canopy but we ultimately added Blue-eared, Yellow-crowned, Red-throated and hulking Gold-whiskered Barbets to our tally. Likewise Grey-and-buff Woodpecker was seen alongside the commoner Buff-rumped and Buff-necked Woodpeckers and we had many hornbill sightings and it was at the canopy walkway where we caught up with the magnificent Helmeted Hornbill, with its long tailing tail and bizarre maniacal laughing call.

Potential the rarest sighting (although perhaps not the most inspiring) was a Brown-streaked Flycatcher, here of the race umbrosa which is surely in line to be recognised as a Bornean endemic.
All too soon it was time to leave for the next part of our journey as we flew back to Kota Kinabalu but not before we added Paddyfield Pipit and Striated Grassbird on the airfield at Lahad Datu.
We were now set for a whole change in habitat and birds as we headed for the mountains. On our first morning in the area we set out early to make the most of the early morning hours at the Rafflesia Reserve. The birding here certainly didn’t disappoint and within the first few hours we had logged several key special including the mysterious Fruithunter, Bornean Bulbuls, Bornean Leafbirds and two striking Whitehead’s Spiderhunters. Numerous fruiting trees in the area also attracted Mountain Barbets, a few Golden-naped Barbets but just a single Bornean Barbet. Other highlights as we birded along the roadsides here were two Giant Swiftlets overhead and Temminck’s Babblers showing nicely in the understory although we also saw many of the other montane specialties for the first time including Sunda and Rufous-hooded Laughingthrushes, Black-and-crimson Oriole, Black-capped White-eye, Chestnut-crested Yuhina, Grey-chinned Minivet and Mountain Imperial Pigeon. Scarcer scarcer birds included Yellow-bellied Warbler, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Cinereous Bulbuls and elegant Grey-rumped Treeswifts.

 

Rufous-collared Kingfisher and Red-bearded Bee-eater     © Robert Hutchinson

From here we made our way up to the magnificent towering massif of Mount Kinabalu home to some of the islands most exciting endemics. As we took of first lunch here we were already adding the likes of Temminck’s Babblers and Black-sided Flowerpeckers while in the darker recesses Eye-browed Jungle Flycatchers and Bornean Whistling Thrushes, all of which were to become daily attractions during our time here. Our first afternoon walk here also bought a huge bonus when a quiet cackling sound in the canopy drew us to a pair of Whitehead’s Broadbills in the canopy, with prolonged views of these huge, and impossibly luminous green, broadbills. Over the next three days we spent much of our time walking through the magnificent montane forests here in search of the other specialties. As early as our first morning these walks produced not only another stunning pair of Whitehead’s Broadbills but having already seen the Whitehead’s Spiderhunter at the Rafflesia Reserve, we completed the fabled ‘Whitehead’s Trio’ when a pair of Whitehead’s Trogons were watched at length. Other treats during our forest walks included a charming group of Mountain Wren Babblers, frequent sightings of Bornean Forktail along the forest streams, an elusive Sunda Cuckoo and exciting mixed feeding flocks where common species like Mountain Leaf Warbler, Yellow-breasted Warbler, White-throated Fantail, Bornean Whistler, Sunda and Rufous-hooded Laughingthrushes and Ochraceous Bulbuls were occasionally joined by such delights as Snowy-browed Flycatchers, Maroon and Checker-throated Woodpeckers and stunning Short-tailed Green Magpies.
In more open areas we found Golden-naped Barbets gorging on berries, Pale-faced Bulbuls feeding on moths, Sunda Bush Warblers along the scrubby roadsides, Little Pied Flycatchers, Indigo Flycatchers and excellent views of the recently split Bornean Swiftlet with their green-glossed upperparts.
Mountain Black-eyes were unusually frequent at lower altitudes this time but others like Bare-headed Laughingthrush and White-browed Shrike Babbler only mustered one sighting each.
On one morning we headed up into the higher mossy forests in search of one specialised inhabitant and careful searching of its favoured bamboo habitat hid indeed find the endemic Kinabalu Friendly Warbler, and it was indeed friendly to us as it crept around in the low vegetation at close range. Other treats up here included yet more Mountain Black-eyes, a relatively obliging male White-browed Shortwing and another Pale-faced Bulbul.

By way of contrast, on another morning we headed down again into the sub-tropical foothills at Poring Hot Springs to try for some of the birds which favour these hill forests. First highlight of the day was a stunning little Rufous-backed Kingfisher roosting right above the trail as we walked into the forest before dawn, then as we climbed higher Grey-headed Babbler and Yellow-bellied Warbler were added, followed by close views of the rare White-necked Babbler. A singing Orange-breasted Trogon distracted us slightly but we were at our target fruiting tree early and the long walk paid off brilliantly as a Hose’s Broadbill was found almost immediately upon arrival and showed for a few minutes before vanishing and didn’t return during our two hour vigil. There were plenty of other birds and an immature Green Broadbill proved a nice comparison to the Hose’s, Red-throated Barbet, Crimson-breasted and Yellow-rumped Flowerpeckers all visited the fruiting tree and both Orange-backed Woodpecker and Crested Jay gave smart views. Pleased with our haul we made our way down again adding White-bellied Erpornis with a feeding flock, then Rufous-collared Kingfisher and Black-winged Flycatcher Shrike around the resort.

 

Golden-naped Barbet and Mountain Black-eye               © Robert Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia

 

Whitehead’s Trogon and White-necked Babbler              © Robert Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia

As usual we saved some treats for the final morning on the mountain; firstly an unusual call from down a steep gully caught Rob’s ear and a snatch of playback bought an Everett’s Thrush hopping up the bank to sit on the trail just meters in front of us! Later in the morning, and after hearing their high pitched calls several times a day, a cute little Bornean Stubtail finally gave himself up to sit out calling on an open branch for us all to enjoy and we could leave the mountain satisfied. On the last afternoon on the way back to Kota Kinabalu was again spent at the Rafflesia Reserve where the wet weather limited our birding a little but we still had had further great views of the endemic bulbuls and leafbirds from our previous visits plus a very obliging Mountain Barbet, a White-crowned Forktails feeding on the road verge, Black-winged Flycatcher Shrike and we finished the tour in style with Mountain Serpent Eagle as our final new bird of the tour.

Leopard Cat, Danum Valley night-drive                 © Robert Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia

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More tour photos..... (all photos © Robert Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia)

 

Bornean Gibbon and Malayan Civet, Kinabatangan River

 

White-fronted Falconet and Common Dollarbird, Kinabatangan River

 

Maroon Leaf Monkey at Danum Valley and Oriental Darter, Kinabatangan River (above)
Eye-browed Jungle Flycatcher and Indigo Flycatcher, Mount Kinabalu (below)

 

 

Bornean Forktail and Bornean Whistling Thrush, Mount Kinabalu

 

Rufous-hooded Laughingthrush and Bornean Whistler, Mount Kinabalu (above)
Mountain Wren Babbler and Temminck’s Sunbird, Mount Kinabalu (below)

 

 

Whitehead’s Spiderhunter and Mountain Barbet, Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve