Sabah, Borneo Custom Tour
8th – 19th June 2008
Leader: Rob Hutchinson
Participants: Kingsley and Sharon Parker
Blue-headed Pitta, Kinabatangan River © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia
This Borneo Custom tour was Kingsley and Sharon’s second visit to Borneo and concentrated on finding missing endemics and specialties – with some obvious priorities – including Bristlehead, as the only representative of this endemic family. The tour was immensely enjoyable and successful with an incredible bird haul. The amazing Bristlehead views were an undoubted highlight but others among the other 42 endemics (of which 31 were new) were such mega’s as Bornean Ground Cuckoo, Blue-headed Pitta, Blue-banded Pitta, Fruithunter, Kinabalu Friendly Warbler, Whitehead’s Trogon, Whitehead’s Spiderhunter, Whitehead’s Broadbill and Everett’s Thrush. Non endemic highlights included an unforgettable encounter with an obliging Giant Pitta and equally amazing Orang-utans and close range Bornean Pygmy Elephants.
Kingsley and Sharon arrived directly into Sandakan in east Sabah in the early afternoon and we headed straight for our first nights accommodation at nearby Sepilok. Sepilok is home to a successful Orang-utan rehabilitation project and as a result protects a sizeable chunk of tall secondary forest which has proved a good spot on some of our recent tours for Bristlehead. Therefore it made the ideal first stop on this tour and we wasted little time upon arrival before venturing out into a favoured area of the Bristlehead. The Bristlehead is always a big priority (usually most-wanted bird in fact) for birders visiting Borneo, but they are notoriously nomadic and often difficult to locate so we could barely believe our luck when we located a group of three individuals within an hour of searching on our very first afternoon! After soaking up scope views as they fed in the canopy of a nearby tall tree we were satisfied enough to move on and explore the recently opened canopy walkway in search of other birds. Banded Broadbill, Indian Cuckoo, Grey-and-buff Woodpecker and a large flock of Long-tailed Parakeets were added from the trails but the highlight came on the walkway itself because not only did we add Black-and-red Broadbill but in the late afternoon the Bristleheads again appeared, this time in the very closest trees to the walkway, allowing us to appreciate ever detail of these amazing birds uttering their bizarre vocalisations, at close range and at eye-level – an unforgettable encounter for us all!
Bristlehead, Sepilok Orang-utan, Kinabatangan River
© Tour Participant Kingsley Parker © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia
The next morning we again spent a few hours in the area, and with Bristlehead under the belt, we found some other targets including Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker, Silver-rumped Needletail, Bornean Brown Barbet, Scarlet-rumped Trogon and a bonus Bornean Black Magpie. After breakfast we made a short stop at the famous Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre where the ever entertaining Orang-utans put on a charismatic performance at the regularly feeding time show. It was time then to drive to the Kinabatangan River but a short detour to Gomantong Caves found the hoped for Bat Hawk in residence, sitting out the midday heat as waited for the evening exodus of its bat ‘supper’ from the nearby caves. After a rather soggy boat trip to our riverside lodge we were glad to see the weather clear after lunch in time for our first boat trip along the river.
We concentrated throughout our stay here on the enigmatic Bornean Ground Cuckoo which drew a blank on our first afternoon although highlights did include an obliging pair of White-crowned Hornbills, three perched Large Green Pigeons, a group of three immense White-bellied Woodpeckers, Lesser Fish Eagle and in the late afternoon a fly-over Great-billed Heron. After dinner we set out again along the river, this time armed with spotlights and enjoyed excellent views of Buffy Fish Owls including one with a large fish, two civet species, several Estuarine Crocodiles and a nice Reticulated Python.
Buffy Fish Owl (left) and Black-and-red Broadbill (right), Kinabatangan River
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia
The next morning we again concentrated on the ground cuckoo and got closer with one bird calling for a long time, albeit distantly and sadly we couldn’t persuade it closer. We did add other excellent birds of course including a colourful Ruddy Kingfisher which shot low across the river and we finished with an excursion ashore for a calling Blue-headed Pitta which circled obligingly around us, gleaming in the undergrowth, and also a striking Red-naped Trogon. During the morning we also added an obliging Striped Wren Babbler (while searching for much less obliging Chestnut-necklaced Partridges), perched Wallace’s Hawk Eagle and a circling Lesser Adjutant. The afternoon saw only torrential rainfall through into nightfall and we left with little choice other than to enjoy a relaxing few beers in the lodge.
The next morning followed a familiar routine as we patiently waited for those tell tale ground cuckoo calls but again they remained silently as we enjoyed amazing close views of the rare Wrinkled Hornbill perched above our heads and our first Storm Stork.
Moving again to another tributary closer to Sukau we waited patiently before finally we again heard those distinctive calls from our target. Our first attempt to find a hidden viewing spot was disrupted by wasps which took exception to our close present, so we moved a little further and moored in the shadows of the bank opposite the ground-cuckoos. They called back strongly to our playback but didn’t seem to want to come closer and after a long stalemate we took the brave decision to try and approach them on foot. These pheasant-sized beasts are incredibly shy, staying as hidden as possible and disappearing at the first sign of people but with a small group we fancied our chances. This proved a good move as we enjoyed brief but good views of the bird, including a particularly memorable view as one peeked over a large log in search of his intruders sporting a bright blue eye-ring glowing in the gloomy forest. They continued to call but only ever offered brief glimpses before we left them in peace, happy to have seen this amazing bird. Amazingly this was the eighth successive Borneo tour on which we have seen this enigmatic species which until just a few years ago was considered one of the most difficult Bornean endemics to find, with just a handful of known records and the vocalisations only recently described.
The morning also produced yet more Lesser Adjutants, Lesser and Grey-headed Fish Eagles, Hooded Pitta and an obliging pair of Rufous-chested Flycatchers. With our main target under the belt the afternoon was distinctly relaxed and we spent much time enjoying great views of Rhinoceros Hornbills flying right over of heads. Undoubtedly the highlight of the afternoon ride was signalled by the loud trumpeting of Bornean Pygmy Elephants. They were a little way from the river so we moored and tracked them careful into the forest until they we feeding quietly close by and eventually emerged for a most memorable view before taking off again into the forest.
Rhinoceros (left) and Wrinkled (right) Hornbills, Kinabatangan River
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia
We had time for a few hours birding the next morning and a pre-breakfast river trip was rewarded with Bornean Black Magpies venturing from the forest to nearby oil-palm plantations to feed, Wrinkled Hornbill, two more Storm Storks and a single Rufous-bellied Eagle. Amazingly we again found the calling ground-cuckoos from two days previously but again they stubbornly refused to move to the river bank where they are most easily seen. We again succeeded in seeing them on foot but this pair was also shy and views were again brief.
After breakfast we headed off again making the drive first south to Lahad Datu before heading to Danum Valley, a protected oasis within a huge logging concession in south east Sabah. An untimely flat tire delayed us for a while so we headed straight for the forest upon arrival. Our first afternoon visit to the canopy walkway was both exciting and profitable with Gold-whiskered Barbet, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Yellow-eared Spiderhunter and Whiskered Treeswift added. In the evening we participated in the daily night-drive, which failed to produce any interesting night-birds we did see roosting Bornean Firebacks and some excellent mammals, the best of which was a bear-like Binturong, although a Colugo (Flying-lemur) and two species of Flying-Squirrels were impressive.
The next morning we drove out along the road and spent some profitable hours birding near the entrance gate. It was here that we quickly notched up both endemic wren-babblers and had great views of these normally elusive birds. The Bornean Wren Babbler, with its strange tail-less appearance crept in the understory nearby while the larger Black-throated Wren Babbler excelled by singing from open branches in full view.
Heading back along the road we hadn’t walked far before we heard the distinctive calls of a Helmeted Hornbill nearby. We waited on the road and in no time at all, a pair of these magnificent birds, with huge, extended tail feather sailed overhead and landed close by to allow prolonged scope views before finishing with another flyover encore!
We returned to the lodge on some of the quieter trails finding a singing Bornean Blue Flycatcher overhead and a huge male Great Argus which gave great views as he strutted through the forest at close range before vanishing before our eyes – not easy for a bird that size!
In the afternoon we again visited the canopy walkway and again new birds were on offer including Lesser Cuckooshrike, Crimson-winged Woodpecker, Spectacled Spiderhunter and Yellow-crowned Barbet.
Bornean Fireback (left) and Red-bearded Bee-eater (right), Danum Valley
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia
We began the following day by staking out a huge fruiting tree near the lodge. Hornbills abound including Helmeted, numerous Rhinoceros and a group of Bushy-crested Hornbills. A delightful Green Broadbill was also found as we studied the ever changing selection of bulbuls, leafbirds, flowerpeckers and pigeons.
Moving on to the trails we finally tracked down one of the many calling Black-crowned Pitta’s. It led us a merry dance right down into the bottom of a gully before we finally got views but when it appeared the views were stunning, with the red-belly, and blue-winged coverts gleaming in the dark, forest understory. Further along the trail it wasn’t long before we heard a Giant Pitta but despite waiting patiently it didn’t call or show again. Some time later we heard another and this time things seemed more promising as it called frequently nearby and we were full of anticipation as we crept closer, hoping that it would break cover. Unfortunately it wasn’t to be as the bird went quiet again without giving us any views.
The morning did of course produce some excellent birds including a Scarlet-rumped Trogon, an obliging pair of Diard’s Trogon, Buff-necked Woodpecker, Violet Cuckoo and an obliging singing Large-billed Blue Flycatcher.
In the afternoon we again headed for the entrance gate chasing up on a Bornean Banded Pitta seen by another birder in the morning. Activity was good and we picked up new birds, first a brief Spotted Fantail and then a much more obliging Red-bearded Bee-eater – perching brilliantly for us to admire his green plumage contrasting with bright red “beard” and bright lilac forehead.
We didn’t find the hoped for Bornean Banded Pitta but instead scored an even greater success with the rarer and much desired Blue-banded Pitta. Following up the monotone whistle of the bird we eventually realised that our intense scanning of the understory nearby was to no avail as the bird was actually calling from high up above our heads! Once we finally focussed in the right strata it didn’t take too long to find this crimson beauty with shimmering blue necklace of feathers perched high above and we enjoyed amazing views as he happily whistled back from his safe vantage point. Amazingly there was yet another highlight to finish the day, although this time it was a mammal taking centre stage. As we made our way across the canopy walkway in the evening a Large Red Flying Squirrel was spotted clambering up one of the huge trees nearby and as we waited patiently with dusk approaching he took a huge leap and glided right towards us, landed right above of heads.
Blue-banded Pitta, Danum Valley © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia
On our last morning we began with another study of the huge fruiting tree close to the lodge which produced surprises even at the last moment, the Green Broadbill was still present and the same tree was shared by two scarce Puff-backed Bulbuls.
With the light now good we headed back to the forest and for the place where the Giant Pitta had frustratingly eluded us the previous day. The pitta called almost instantly and we excitedly took position hidden behind a large tree. After brief playback we waited quietly and suddenly there he was, a huge rugby-ball shaped pitta with bright blue mantle bouncing through the undergrowth, then sitting inquisitively for us to admire. Not satisfied he hopped right around us even stopping in the middle of the wide trail, although right behind the only tree present of course! We were satisfied but he was still desperate to impress so after a few more minutes of calling, an alarm call announced his arrival on an eye-level bough, giving amazing unobscured views before completing his performance by flying back past us and into the forest – awesome!
We had just enough time left for a last try for the Bornean Banded Pitta so off we went. Sadly we had to wait until later in the trip for this pitta but our final few hours still produced excellent new birds in the form of a stunning male Rufous-collared Kingfisher, Rufous Piculet, Maroon Woodpecker and a couple of obliging Grey-chested Jungle Flycatchers.
We departed early the next morning, arriving at Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve at dawn and good birding started almost immediately with our first bird of the morning being one of Borneo’s most interesting and sought-after endemics – a Fruithunter, feeding in a nearby fruiting tree. The morning continued well with nice views of Bornean Leafbirds (recently split from Blue-winged), Bornean Bulbul (split from Black-crested), close views of a perched Blyth’s Hawk Eagle, Yellow-bellied Warbler and two of the three endemic barbet’s; Golden-naped and Mountain. We saw a few Bornean Spiderhunters and later in the morning the wheezy calls of a Whitehead’s Spiderhunter led us to track down this stunning bird which gave exceptional eye-level views. Bird activity quickly died down as the heat rose so in the mid-morning we headed off towards Mount Kinabalu. As we approached the mountain, the weather looked impeccable with even the granite summit of Kinabalu visible so we decided to head straight for the higher reaches of the forest to take advantage. After lunch we set off up the steep summit trail and before long we had notched up our first target when a group of Mountain Black-eyes appeared for super close views. We pressed on and after another short climb we struck gold when a Kinabalu Friendly Warbler began to call close by, he was as friendly as hoped and we soon teased out excellent views of this endemic bradypterus singing at close range – friendly indeed!
We finished the day with a walk along one of the deep forest trails where we found a diminutive Bornean Stubtail feeding quietly on the forest floor and the first of several Eye-browed Jungle Flycatchers seen during our stay.
Our first morning on the mountain began with an attempt at the elusive Everett’s Thrush, resulting only in a rather distant calling bird. Further down the mountain a short roadside stop surprised with a very obliging White-browed Shortwing seen unusually easily with minimal effort.
Whitehead’s Spiderhunter (left) and Fruithunter (right), Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia
Kinabalu Friendly Warbler (left) and Mountain Wren Babbler (right), Mount Kinabalu
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia
After breakfast we headed down one of our favourite trails through magnificent tall montane forests. This started very well when an old friend greeted us with calls from down the slope and we located a pair of Whitehead’s Trogons, although only the female allowed prolonged scope views. While taking a steep trail down the slope in the hope of further views we heard the distinctive whooping calls of Bare-headed Laughingthrushes and taped them closer for great views of this distinctive, but not particularly attractive, endemic. We were clearly on a roll for just as we got back on the main trail another endemic, this time a Mountain Wren Babbler began to call. Unfortunately they were teasing us by calling from the slopes below where we had been standing 5 minutes previously! Not to be outdone we headed back down and were rewarded by close views of these charming birds, literally bouncing around our feet. The next surprised was a pair of Crimson-headed Partridges spotted feeding close to the trail which gave nice looks as the slowly moved away down the slope then a pair of White-crowned Forktails rounded off the morning nicely, posing on the river in the valley bottom and appeared to be guarding a nearby nest, so we soon left them in peace. The afternoon found more nice birds, including Eye-browed Jungle Flycatchers again. In the late afternoon we had a close encounter with a calling Everett’s Thrush but couldn’t find them in the dark rainy forest.
Another day exploring the forest trails gave some excellent birding and our persistence with the elusive Everett’s Thrush was finally repaid when one bird was spotted hopping up onto a low branch, perching long enough for good views before again returning to the forest floor.
Other additions were Short-tailed Magpies but the local vaga taxon of Brown Wood Owl was only heard predawn (sounding identical to Bartel’s Wood Owl of Java) and Red-breasted Partridges were similarly frustrating, calling at close range in the undergrowth but not giving tickable views.
The next morning we drove lower down in the national park to the subtropical forests at Poring Hot Springs.
Our big target here was our final possible endemic pitta of the trip – Bornean Banded Pitta. Once into good forest we soon heard one calling but it didn’t obliged and despite some careful stalking we didn’t manage satisfactory views before he became quiet and disappeared. Fortunately all was not lost and some time later he was calling again. This time we picked our way further into the forest and enjoyed some really great views of this stunning bird which completed our pitta clean-up! Other good birds included two different Rufous-collared Kingfishers, Rufous Woodpecker, Maroon Woodpecker, Buff-rumped Woodpecker, while new birds picked up during the morning included Grey-headed Babbler, Brown Fulvetta, White-bellied Erpornis, Eye-browed Wren Babbler, Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker, Crested Jay (finally satisfactory views!) and a pair of White-tailed Blue Flycatchers. A final surprise was a White-fronted Falconet perched high on a dead snag in a forest clearing.
Our visit to the canopy walkway was unfortunately rained off as we got caught mid-walkway in a torrential (and we mean torrential!) downpour, and with no sign of it we abating had to walk back to the HQ in the rain on the trail which had now become a river!
In the afternoon we made another stop at the Tambunan Rafflesia Reserve. We found a nice fruiting tree and by persisting there we found our major target, the tiny Bornean Barbet which gave nice views of its striking face pattern. We also again had great views of Blyth’s Hawk Eagle, Bornean Leafbirds and all finally caught up with Cinereous Bulbul.
A slight re-jigging the next morning saw us heading back again to the mountain in a last blast attempt to find that elusive broadbill. On arrival we immediately had a response from a Sunda Cuckoo calling from high above on the forested slopes which amazingly responded by shooting down the hillside to the trees nearby and once relocated gave great views. A morning walk around the road system near the park headquarters was profitable with a skulking Temminck’s Babbler rewarding us.
We then headed once more into the forests in the hope that the broadbills would finally perform at one of their favoured spots. We waited, scanned, listened and waited more, walking the trail in the hope of spotting a luminous green bird sitting quietly in the forest. After some time calling drongo’s raised hopes of increased activity and suddenly we could hear a broadbill calling oh-so-quietly nearby. We made our way forward and suddenly there he was! An awesome, huge, bright green Whitehead’s Broadbill sitting over our heads in the canopy, a clear black throat showing it to be a male. To say we were elated was an understatement, after so much hard work we had finally completed our ‘Whitehead’s trio’ and this was a perfect ending to the tour.
The tour total of 265 species included 10 which were heard only. An exceptional 42 endemics were seen.
Temminck’s Sunbird (left) and Bornean Whistling Thrush (right), Mount Kinabalu
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia
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