Cambodia OBC Tour
28th January - 9th February 2008
Leader: James Eaton
Participants: John Armitage, Tony Broome, Marco Della Seta, Hans-Erik Johansson,
Völker Schmidt, Brian & Margaret Sykes, Krister Wahlstrom.
White-winged Duck, O’Koki © James Eaton / Birdtour Asia
Once again Cambodia did not disappoint with a whole suite of rare species enlightening this bird-filled tour in a fascinating and friendly country. Due to the sudden closure of Bokor National Park we made some quick readjustments and I doubt any of us could have expected such success to these itinerary changes! Beginning at Angkor Wat, the impressive temples offered a spectacular introduction to the countries history while nearby waterbird sanctuaries played host to literally tens of thousands of birds, including endangered sharpei Sarus Crane, nesting Milky Stork and numerous Greater Adjutants. Working our way into an extended trip northeast into the Cambodian wilderness produced some fabulous birding, including several sightings of White-rumped Falcon, White-rumped, Red-headed Vultures and a vagrant Himalayan Griffin Vulture, 10 species of Woodpecker and an impressive 12 species of night-bird were recorded. On top of all that the main focal point of any Cambodian tour - Giant and White-shouldered Ibis - both showed wonderfully well.
The grasslands surrounding the Tonle Sap produced great views of four Bengal Florican, our fifth critically-endangered species on the tour along with many wintering migrants. We finished the tour with entertaining Irrawaddy Dolphins and two more top avian targets - Asian Golden Weaver and the recently described Mekong Wagtail. Overall we recorded a total of 245 species including seven heard only.
Our first morning was spent in the shadows of Angkor Wat. Avoiding the early morning crowds we began at the back of the temple for some enjoyable introductory birding. As the light quickly improved so did the birding, the various tiks and taks and sweet melodic songs soon revealed themselves, first a confiding group of Olive-backed Pipits; next more distant Cotton Pygmy Geese followed by Black-naped Orioles and Common Hill Mynas in the canopy. It wasn’t long before our first of several Asian Barred Owlets sat nicely in the telescope, and the five perched Black Baza were followed by a swirling flock of no less than 17 of this most beautiful of raptors. Concentrating on the migrants, Red-throated Flycatchers and Yellow-browed Warblers were common and we all eventually got some nice views of the often wary and elusive Pale-legged Leaf Warbler. Keeping with the understorey our main target was soon enticed into view as two male Hainan Blue Flycatchers vied for our attentions as they busily guarded their respective territories.
As the birding activity subsided due to the heat we ‘did the tourist thing’ and explored Angkor Wat skilfully shown to us by our ever-enthusiastic guide, Sophoan. Despite numerous trips to the temple it never ceases to amaze just how this magnificent structure was assembled and each visit produces more architectural surprises. Following a welcome cold drink and the first of our scrumptious traditional lunches we spent the early afternoon at Bayon Temple, looking in particular at the amazing attention to detail on the engraved walls. Still not feeling ‘templed-out’ we headed over to Ta Prohm Temple, aptly known as The Jungle Temple. Exploring this completely different structure where the forest creeps into the temple remains offers some wonderful photographic opportunities and of course some good birding. Three active Alexandrine Parakeet nests were located, a welcome site of this rare bird in south-east Asia, among the more common and raucous Red-breasted Parakeets. Finally, we ended the day with a pair of Brown Boobooks that had little hesitation about being teased into view!
Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Prek Toal Milky Stork, Prek Toal
Taking to the water the following day saw us speed across the northern shore of the Tonle Sap to the marshy shoreline and entrance of the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary, a World Biosphere site. Upon entering a channel that bisects the huge expanse of marsh and thickets the first few waterbirds started to appear. Spot-billed Pelicans joined the Oriental Darters, Great and Indian Cormorants around the fishing nets and Black-backed Swamphens dotted the entrance to the channel as a Peregrine suddenly flashed by and dived into the nearby swamp only to retrieve a Ruddy-breasted Crake, hard luck for those of us who still hadn’t seen this widespread but typically elusive rallid. We changed craft at this point into small paddling boats and gently cruised towards the main breeding colonies. As we went deeper into the sanctuary more and more water-birds started to appear, first the Asian Openbills became more numerous as their colonies are more widespread, then the first groups of Painted Storks circled low overhead, much to our surprise one of them showed gleaming white coverts and unmarked breast – Milky Stork! This fortuitous sighting was soon followed by another as the next kettle of waterbirds contained four huge Greater Adjutants casually spiralling higher and higher. Several excellent views were had of Grey-headed Fish Eagles as we made our way to the designated platform perched precariously on top of the largest tree above us. Enjoying the panorama of huge numbers of just about every large water-bird species present in southeast Asia we picked out a couple of goodies. Milky Stork on the same nest as previous years along with a separate lone individual, at least 25 Greater Adjutants perched distantly, and even flying overhead so we could admire him in all his beauty, and amazingly, just a single Lesser Adjutant. Once everyone had their fill we casually drifted back for a late lunch at the floating village, a nice experience watching how people go about their lives on this amazingly fertile lake.
Heading west we spent a day at the large Khmer Rouge-built reservoir of Ang Trapeang Thmor. It always takes most of the morning to actually reach the reservoir because of the numerous birding stops en route, and this year was no exception. Starting off with White-shouldered Starlings we jumped from the vehicles to enjoy a family party of endangered sharpei Sarus Cranes feeding in the roadside fields. We didn’t move for the next 45 minutes as the birds continually appeared during our first (of many!) field breakfasts. A daring Ruddy-breasted Crake seemed persistent in its suicidal attempts by constantly feeding on the roadside despite the frequent traffic, obviously oblivious to our observations the previous day! Eastern Marsh Harriers cruised by, Oriental Reed Warblers announced their presence with their rasping calls, Red-throated Pipits were all around us, a singing Australasian Bushlark overhead and a chirping Plain-backed Sparrow was the first of many.
Unfortunately it appeared that all the wildfowl had been disturbed before our arrival at the reservoir as the huge numbers I had promised never materialised, except when the Lesser Whistling Ducks swirled in their thousands in the distance. Continuous scanning revealed plenty of Cotton Pygmy Geese, Garganey, both Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jaçana and Black-backed Swamphens. The hedgerows beside us played host to a huge number of ‘Eastern’ Baya Weavers, raucous Black-collared Starling, Plaintive Cuckoo and a surprise Indochinese Cuckooshrike.
After retreating to the nearby village for lunch we walked towards the breeding colony of Painted Storks and Spot-billed Pelicans. This colony only started breeding last year, and is a real sign of conservation success as I have watched the number slowly build up year by year. Amongst them we found the ‘Milky’ Stork that is paired with a Painted. Unfortunately it showed a couple of pink flight feathers and barred underwing coverts – a hybrid. On closer inspection we found another, less subtle, hybrid paired to a Painted below the first bird. How much longer will the Milky Stork survive in Cambodia until it phases out, and how many birders have happily ticked off the first bird as a Milky Stork this and last year?! Throughout the afternoon everywhere we looked there were birds, Comb Ducks finally showed themselves, though rather distantly, White-browed Crakes were out in numbers on the lily pads and a showy Dusky Warbler was the first of many to come.
As we drove back in the late afternoon a look to our left brought us to an abrupt stop as a delightful male Pied Harrier slowly quartered a roadside field, a magic moments that will live long in the memory, its piercing yellow eye contrasted with the beautiful black and white plumage as we watched him for some time. To top the day off nicely, four Sarus Crane were feeding right next to the road, contrasting against the browns and greens of the surrounding grasslands in the serene orange sunset.
Oriental Bay Owl, pair, O’Koki © James Eaton/Birdtour Asia
Unfortunately just a week before the tour we were informed that Bokor National Park is to be closed for the next two years. After carefully considering the options we decided to visit some of the most remote areas Cambodia has to offer, with the chance of some more highly sought-after species. An eventful full days drive saw us reach our tented camp deep in the Preah Vihear Protected Forest Reserve well after dark, without much of note en route except our first Burmese Shrikes, Ashy Minivet, Vinous-breasted Starlings and plentiful Rufous-winged Buzzards. Rising blurry eyed well before dawn the next morning we walked to a hide set up overlooking a specific small pool located in the forest. Waiting for the first rays of light we sat quietly listening to the forest awaken. Scanning the pool revealed a big dark blob sat on an overhanging branch, then it suddenly disappeared. An anxious 10 minute wait resulted in some distant honking that gradually became clearer and louder and louder until the culprits make a sudden splash - a pair of White-winged Ducks! Quiet pandemonium took place as we all wanted to peer through the little gaps to admire these endangered birds as they very cautiously fed, seemingly well aware of our presence. As the light improved the photographers’ edge their way to the front with reasonable results, I have never been so close to one of the wariest birds in Asia. Once the ducks were happy with their early morning feed off they went and there were handshakes all round, time for a cup of celebratory coffee!
With the rest of the day to play with we walked through two types of forest – the denser closed canopy forest eventually provided us with smart views of a Banded Broadbill as he flew back and forth overhead before finally settling; Puff-throated Bulbul, replacing the more widespread Ochraceous of south and east Cambodia, shy White-crested Laughingthrushes, Abbot’s Babbler, a brief White-bellied Woodpecker and Scaly-crowned Babbler. For most of the day we walked through the open, dry dipterocarp forest that dominates the northern plains of Preah Vihear province. As the late afternoon approached the area became alive, and so typically of this habitat every species showed exceptionally well, Black-hooded Oriole, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Blossom-headed Parakeet, Large and Indochinese Cuckooshrikes, a flock of 6(!) Great Slaty Woodpeckers flying all around us, producing their crazy social antics, a singing Brown Prinia and finally a pair of Black-headed Woodpecker fluffing up their red rumps in response to the intruders. Then as the sun began to set a flash of white and grey revealed itself as a male White-rumped Falcon; even better it perched next to its mate, what a result! We watched these feisty ‘falconlets’ until dusk, when the unmistakable double-note whistle of ‘the harriers of the night’ came out to play, 5 Great Eared Nightjars gently hawked overhead and all around us, wow, can it get any better than this?
Well, in short, yes it can! While having dinner prepared by our wonderful cooks the laughing cries of a Blyth’s Frogmouth made the meal a rather hurried affair. A rather tense and lengthy battle ensued, not helped by a rather distracting Oriental Bay Owl calling in the distance! Eventually we won as a frogmouth suddenly appeared in our spotlight producing walk away views. Now it was time for the Bay Owl…. As the ten of us slowly, and quietly crept through the forest the owl kept on calling and calling until it sounded very close, then suddenly it sounded much closer. We flicked on our spotlight to reveal the best owl night birding has to offer as an Oriental Bay Owl clung onto the side of a trunk right in front of us, you little beauty! Eventually it flew allowing us to finally retreat to our tents… until he started calling again and a quick search revealed a pair of Bay Owls sat opposite each other, now it really was time for bed!
Oriental Scops Owl, Chhep Oriental Bay Owl, O’Koki
The next day would struggle to compete with the previous days success, so we opted for more of the same. We returned to the White-rumped Falcon territory for more excellent views in better light, the previous days calling Banded Bay Cuckoo finally showed itself in the telescope amongst a host of other nice species. A brief spell back in the more dense forest searching for Orange-breasted Trogon resulted in a brief view but exceptional views of a pair of Banded Kingfisher more than made up for this. We moved camps during the afternoon in preparation for the following days activities. Birding was limited due to a heavy thunderstorm but we still managed to sneak in a pair of diminutive Collared Falconets and distant views of Red-headed and White-rumped Vultures. As dusk approached an unusually co-operative Oriental Scops Owl called next to the camp, and we managed to refind it on four occasions as people ate and showered at different times allowing an amazingly close approach!
Once again we were in place for a predawn stake-out, this time overlooking a fresh carcass. As we waited for the sun to rise a Savanna Nightjar gave a couple of nice fly-bys. Finally the light arrived and so did the vultures as 37 White-rumped Vultures were perched all around us along with 4 Red-headed. As the sun began to rise we waited in anticipation for the mornings feast, though unfortunately and for whatever reason, this failed to materialise as we watched the vultures fly down to old carcasses put out in the past, for the on-going research into the dwindling vulture populations of the region. Surprisingly a young Himalayan Griffin joined the gang - a rare straggler to south-east Asia and only the 4th for Cambodia. While waiting with baited breath both Greater Spotted and Changeable Hawk Eagles flew by and an adult and immature Grey-headed Fish Eagle appeared nearby. Eventually we admitted defeat, presuming that the vultures were aware of our presence and we headed back west without much bird activity, except a flock of 19 Oriental Pied Hornbills that kept flying past during a refuel. We arrived at the new guesthouse at Tmat Boey Village shortly after sunset, in great anticipation for the following mornings birding.
White-rumped Falcon, O’Koki Giant Ibis, Tmat Boey
In place at dawn the duetting of the near-mythical Giant Ibis was soon heard, a quick scramble through the forest provided us with our first birds at Tmat Boey – a pair of Giant Ibis perched atop the distant snags. Some quick scrambling for telescopes meant we were all soon watching in awe as a pair of these prehistoric looking beasts stared across at us until it was feeding time and away they went. Elated with our early success we carried on through this wonderful landscape, next to come was a Brown Fish Owl that flushed into the open giving great views, while watching this a female White-rumped Falcon flew in to view, calling emphatically, this area gets better with each visit! Birds kept flowing as the day progressed, as did the Giant Ibis as we scored another perched with 3 Lesser Adjutants. Not to be outdone, it was Sophoan, our spontaneous guide, who spotted the next Giant Ibis sat quietly under the canopy. Careful stalking got us literally underneath the bird as it tentatively looked down to us, not knowing what to make of the commotion! In the end there were 3 ibis here, taking our morning tally to 6 birds. A conservation success story as these birds becomes less and less wary.
In the afternoon we completed our ibis haul with a pair of White-shouldered Ibis busy feeding on a trapeang, a seasonal watering pool. We struggled to get more than flight views on this occasion but the following morning we visited another regular feeding spot where we had great views of a pair of these critically endangered species perched out. With our top targets out of the way we carried on enjoying the huge variety of species which this habitat has to offer, including a couple more pairs of Giant Ibis flushed from roadside trapeangs. The more open grassland held a small flock of Yellow-breasted Bunting, another co-operative Brown Prinia and some Barred Buttonquails. We visited an area of denser forest where Radde’s Warblers sneaked about with beautiful Scarlet Minivets and Verditer Flycatchers overhead, White-crested Laughingthrushes came and went, and eventually our target was located – a day roosting Spotted Wood Owl, nice! Spending the rest of our time in the more open dipterocarp forest that dominates this region we picked up as many ‘wanted’ species as possible. Parachuting Indochinese Bushlarks sang away, Chinese Francolins were typically frustrating, Orange-breasted and Yellow-footed Green Pigeons co-operated, Alexandrine Parakeets screeched by, Crested Treeswifts sallied overhead, Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches crept along branches, Burmese Shrikes terrorised everything that passed by their territories, Red-billed Blue Magpies played hide-and-seek, and even a Ruby-cheeked Sunbird put in an appearance.
Woodpeckers were typically numerous in the area, 11 species in total. Great Slaty’s again put on a great exhibition, Black-headed too and finally a Spot-breasted which resulted in a mad dash for Marco as we (well, Tony!) finally pinned it down, having escaped us 4 times. Just when we thought the night birding had come to a standstill our final morning produced an extremely confiding Collared Scops Owl, just as the day was about to break.
Saying our farewells to the wonderful people of Tmat Boey we headed south, back towards the Tonle Sap floodplain, home to our fifth critically endangered species of the tour – Bengal Florican – A species whose continued existence in the country remains perilously on a knife’s edge. Walking our first section of grassland gave way not only to a Small Buttonquail but an amazing number of Pallas’s Grasshopper Warblers who seemingly took great pleasure out of flying away from us then running through the tall grass never to be seen again! The first female Florican escaped us against the sun but as the heat started to die down we were treated to wonderful flight views of a calling male as he slowly flew past , craning his neck round to look back at us as he flew away. As the air cooled we finally located a pair of Floricans feeding in the distance, a great way to end the day.
The following morning we visited an area of rice fields that was once dominated by grassland just a few years ago in search of wintering migrants. For the second year running we failed to find Manchurian Reed Warbler, maybe the habitat is no longer suitable here. We came across a nice selection of other species despite the cool, windy weather, Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns sat up in the reeds but a Watercock was unfortunately much briefer. Black-browed and Oriental Reed Warblers showed themselves but not nearly as well as a Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler that seemed spell-bound as he crept out from the thickets and sat unobscured for well over 5 minutes, totally unconcerned by our presence. Around the grassy margins Red-throated Pipits mingled with the Eastern Yellow Wagtails and Bluethroats. Overhead Eastern Marsh Harriers and Black-shouldered Kites battled for the air space and finally Racket-tailed Treepies fed unobtrusively nearby. With time pressing we hit the road once more and crossed the mighty Mekong River, via a stop at my favourite restaurant in Kompong Cham, it appeared that it was also the favourite of every bus and travel company as it was stacked to the rafters! Arriving at the scenically set town of Kratie on the bank of the Mekong we had time for a walk around a nearby marsh. Just as we set up scopes and was about to say how I keep missing Asian Golden Weaver at this locality, up pops a gaudy black and yellow male in the telescope! We moved closer and ended up getting great views of this increasingly localised and scarce species. As we continued to peer through our scopes a Black Drongo appears mobbing a Brown Boobook, amazingly we watch them as the Boobook flies directly overhead and swoops down into the nearby scrub, bizarre! Just as the light begins to fade a Black Bittern flies across the marsh and we call it a day. A lazy, last day saw us take to a boat for the last time, and slowly edging towards the small islets that characterise this long stretch of the Mekong, even before we get close to the islets our first Mekong Wagtail is singing from a small rock and allows us to edge nice and close to him. As usual we attempt to get close to the wagtails as they busily fly between partially submerged bushes and watch them ‘do their thing’ as they clamber around the bushes and rocky edges, occasionally chasing off other, invading, pairs. Once we had our fill with this recently described species we carried on back to shore and enjoyed our time with some very playful Irrawaddy River Dolphins, who knew very well what they were doing, teasing us with where to pop up next!
Back on shore we packed up and took the drive back to Phnom Penh, the charming capital of Cambodia and enjoyed our last dinner together in this remarkable, friendly and bird-filled country. A great end to a great tour on which we recorded a total of 245 species with an additional 7 heard only.
Brown Fish Owl, Tmat Boey Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler, Krous Kram
Click here to view the Systematic Bird List
Click here to download the report as a pdf
For further information on the OBC tours to Cambodia please contact us via e-mail or follow the links for our scheduled departure tours, please click here.
