White-rumped Falcon, Tmat Boey                                       (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia)

This short custom tour concentrated on seeking out the specialities and near-endemics to be found in Northern Cambodia. Overall the tour proved highly successful and we managed to locate nearly all of our target species. The total of 195 species observed including the charismatic ibis duo; the enigmatic Giant and localised White-shouldered Ibis, superlative views of a male White-rumped Falcon for the second tour in succession, wonderful views of a pair of Sarus Crane on territory, 7 species of owl at just a single site, an early-returning Bengal Florican and the recently-described Mekong Wagtail along the mighty Mekong River with the accompanying Irrawaddy River Dolphins as the non-avian highlight.

Arriving at the newly reconstructed and attractively decorated Siem Reap International Airport we were greeted by two familiar species, a House Sparrow, a recent colonist in Cambodia, and a leucopsis White Wagtail. This European flavour was soon forgotten as the midday temperature soared and Brown Shrikes dotted the car-park as we made our way to the rather extravagant Empress Angkor Hotel for a quick wash and rest before making the short journey to the amazing temples of Angkor Wat. The visit to Angkor Wat was as impressive as ever and we circled the moat to the entrance of the temples, admiring the amazing detail of the sand-stone carvings created by the dedicated Hindus over 700 years ago. Unsurprisingly the dry open forest that surrounds the temples proved too much of a temptation and we were soon walking along the edge, adding vocal Asian Barred Owlets, Forest Wagtails, Asian Drongo-Cuckoo, beautiful Black Baza and 3 species of flycatcher, namely Red-throated, Asian Brown and a splendid singing male Hainan Blue Flycatcher along with an array of Phylloscopus warblers, Yellow-browed being notably common with single plumbeitarsus Greenish and a typically vocal though elusive Pale-legged Leaf-Warbler. As the temperature began to drop we moved onto the impressive Ta Phrom Temple, or ‘Jungle Temple’ as it is often known. Raucous Red-breasted Parakeets flocked over the temple and we were lucky enough to find a pair of Alexandrine Parakeet inspecting possible nest-holes as they sat above our heads. New species continued to be added to our days total and the spectacle of a flock of shy but inquisitive White-crested Laughingthrushes were a fitting finale to our first afternoon in this wonderful kingdom.

White-shouldered Ibis – Tmat Boey                                                (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia)

An early start was required to reach Ang Trapeang Thmor, a large reservoir built by the Khmer Rouge, and one of the few large man-made water bodies in this arid, dry region. We finally reached the reservoir after several stops en-route due to the still receding water levels from the mid-summer monsoon, these stops provided ample opportunity for us to enjoy many of the more common species to be found in Cambodia. Shorebirds were well represented with Wood Sandpiper, Greenshank, ‘Eastern’ Black-tailed Godwit, Common and a single Pintail Snipe and Little Ringed Plovers busy feeding along the muddied margins and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters patrolling the skies. The bushes lining the ditches and canals held good numbers of vocal Oriental Reed- and Dusky Warblers and a showy flock of White-shouldered Starlings contained both pristine adults and rather drab looking immatures and Black-collared Starlings fed along the roadside in the company of Peaceful, Spotted and Red Collared Doves.
The surroundings of the reservoir were a sea of green with lush rice fields dominated the scenery, rather different to the dry, burnt landscape which birders visiting later in the dry season would be familiar with. As breeding had not yet commenced at the nearby Prek Toel Waterbird Sanctuary, flocks of large water-birds dominated proceedings, Painted Storks were continually in view, often in flocks of 70 or more, Asian Openbills appeared in 2 equally impressive flocks as they circled overhead before landing out of view and flushing a flock of 20 Black-headed Ibis in the process. After much scanning, a flock of 30 Spot-billed Pelicans soared in the distance and an impressive Greater Spotted-Eagle eventually showed, albeit distantly. Regular stops scanning the grassy water margins produced good numbers of waterfowl, with Lesser Whistling-Ducks, Garganey and Pygmy Cotton-Geese all numerous, along with Black-backed Swamphens, both Bronze-winged & Pheasant-tailed Jacanas and a single Comb Duck.
Skirting the south side of the reservoir even during the heat of the day still produced a few passerines, Streak-eared Bulbuls, Scarlet-backed Flowerpeckers, and Dusky Warblers were evidently common as they continually called from the rank vegetation, then, in amongst a flock of Painted Stork a lone, monstrous, Greater Adjutant sat, a real bonus, even if it is a grotesquely ugly creature! Making our way back to Siem Reap regular stops produced flocks of Red-throated Pipits, Eastern Yellow Wagtails, ‘Eastern’ Baya Weavers and Yellow-breasted Buntings as they flew overhead to roost.

Before departing Siem Reap the next morning we had a look at the huge roost of Lyle’s Flying Foxes that reside in the city, much to the amusement of the locals who were astonished by the details of these impressive bats through our telescope! After the sweltering heat of the previous day we looked forward to the bumpy ride to Preah Vihear province, in the north of Cambodia, in our air-conditioned jeep. We made a couple of short excursions into the forest en-route to pick up a number of nice species. It wasn’t long before our first Rufous-winged Buzzard came into view (these would be a regular feature over the next 3 days) and a Lesser Adjutant soared overhead as we watched a family of Little Green Bee-eaters sally from a nearby perch with both Crested Goshawk and Shikra performing within 5 minutes of each other. A short walk into the forest produced an amazing number of birds and some species we were not expecting until later in the trip including Indochinese and Large Cuckoo-shrikes, Black-hooded Oriole and Gold-fronted Leafbird and later in the journey, a pair of Vinous-breasted Starlings.
We arrived in the small rural village of Tmat Boey, in the heart of the Preah Vihear Protected Forest shortly after lunchtime which gave us time to spend the late afternoon birding near to the village. We soon located many of the more common species that inhabit this very dry, open dipterocarp forest, such as flocks of both Crested Treeswifts and Hoopoe, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Purple Sunbird, Small Minivet, more Black-hooded Oriole, Grey-capped Woodpecker and three of the areas specialities; Chinese Francolin, Streak-breasted and the dazzling Black-headed Woodpecker. To finish off the day in style a White-shouldered Ibis circled round and promptly landed on top of a nearby tree before proceeded to tree-hop allowing excellent views as it was continually harried by a Brahminy Kite,. Finally as dusk approached 3 more White-shouldered Ibis flew overhead to their roosting tree, calling as they prepared to roost, and a Spotted Owlet showed briefly.

  

    Alexandrine Parakeet, Tmat Boey                Black-headed Woodpecker, Tmat Boey

We decided to head into the forest predawn in the hope of seeing Giant Ibis leaving one of their roost sites, though they had chosen a different roosting tree this time, en-route we heard the distinctive calls of the resident form of Oriental Scops-Owl (a likely future split from the montane Asian forms) and although dawn was fast approaching, we managed to lure the bird into view and it performed in our spotlight. We spent the morning moving between pools, or ‘Trapeangs’ as they are known locally, as these small pools are the feeding grounds of the ibis. Birding in-between is always productive, building on yesterdays success we added yet more specialities, including the localised Brown Prinia, Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon, good numbers of both Red-breasted & Blossom-headed Parakeets and a host of woodpeckers including Fulvous-breasted, huge White-bellied and Great Slaty. Eventually after much perseverance we heard the distinctive wing-flapping of Giant Ibis and watched in excitement as two Giant Ibis flew up from a well-shaded Trapeang to land in a nearby tree, while attempting to view from a better angle the birds flew again giving us nice flight views of these rather prehistoric-looking creatures . With smiles all round we headed back for a well-deserved lunch and siesta but not before spotting 5 perched White-shouldered Ibis at close range from the jeep, giving outstanding views of this usually shy species, in fact they were so close that we could see them panting in the heat!
Feeling the heat and success of the mornings birding we took a decidedly more leisurely walk in the afternoon skirting the edge of some nearby rice fields, comical Red-billed Blue-Magpies floated by as we scanned some of the feeding flocks that had gathered around the small pools looking for some respite from the heat Bulbuls, particularly Streak-eared predominated but several Olive-backed Pipits were rather showy along with Plain & Rufescent Prinias, Green-billed Malkoha, a small flock of vocal Oriental Pied Hornbill, the ever common Rufous-winged Buzzard guarding a nearby nest and luckily a flushed Yellow-legged Buttonquail. As dusk approached we headed back to our owl site from the morning and it wasn’t long before Oriental Scops-Owls were heard and we eventually had excellent views of this elusive otus as it watched us inquisitively. Quite a show followed, first a Red Giant Flying Squirrel glided spectacularly into view to land on the trunk of a bare tree in front of us and we watched its silhouette against the full moon as it continued to climb to the top before gliding to the next tree and so forth, brilliant. Barn-Owl was next to follow as one finally circled round into view after hearing them distantly earlier and to top proceedings off, a Spotted Owlet flew into view just as we arrived back at our vehicle.

Next morning was rather more relaxed as our two main target birds had been seen well in previous days. We decided to head back again to the area where we had seen Giant Ibis the previous morning taking in some large paddyfields along the way. As the sun began to rise the fields were full of birds, a flock of 20 Vinous-breasted Starlings started proceedings as 7 Woolly-necked Storks fed around a nearby flood. Many species were revealing themselves rather easily as they sang out aloud from exposed perches; Indochinese Bushlarks, Plain-backed Sparrow, another Brown Prinia and eventually 2 Banded Bay Cuckoos. Equally vocal Black-headed Woodpeckers & Alexandrine Parakeets put in yet more appearances, as did less vocal wintering migrants such as Thick-billed Warbler, 2 Velvet-fronted Nuthatch and a Pale-legged Leaf-Warbler. Walking through the long grass produced amazing numbers of the 3 previously mentioned prinia species, along with mini-flocks of Hoopoe and a surprise group of vocal and eventually, showy Chestnut-capped Babblers. The afternoon produced much the same, with numbers of a wide variety of species, making for very pleasant birding, including the fourth and final prinia species of this area; Grey-breasted. as the temperatures dropped, an Asian Barred Owlet flew out onto an exposed branch allowing wonderful views before being joined by his mate then as the light faded we witnessed the spectacular sight as over 150 Vinous-breasted Starlings perched overhead with several smaller Chestnut-tailed Starlings mingling, before flying to the nearby starling roost with even greater numbers of Black-collared, creating a raucous evening chorus that lasted more than 30 minutes. Eventually the noise resided, giving way to the hoots of a pair of Spotted Wood-Owl duetting shortly after dusk which gave us the run for a while until we finally located them. While waiting patiently for the owls an Indian Nightjar found perched on an exposed branch, sallying for insects was a real bonus. Eventually we arrived back at our homestay and tucked into yet another delicious local dish accompanied by a plate of Spaghetti Bolognese, the first time our cook had attempted to cook such a dish much to everyone’s amusement. It wasn’t long before we were awake again, but this time it was for a night-bird rather closer to our accommodation, as a Collared Scops-Owl called from outside the kitchen. The bird was soon located, with its mate sitting in close attendance as they proceeded to preen each other apparently oblivious to our prying eyes!

 
   

         Streak-throated Woodpecker, Tmat Boey               Collared Scops-Owl, Tmat Boey

We had been tipped off that a pair of Sarus Crane had been feeding in a nearby area just the day before, a species we had not expected to see as they had not yet returned at their traditional wintering grounds at Ang Trapeang Thmor. This was our obvious first-choice destination this morning and after an hour of searching we were treated to a glorious fly-by as a pair of these elegant birds flew low straight towards us before turning at the last moment, with the sun glistening against their red hood and bill, one of the leaders’ personal tour highlights (even though his camera was still in the bag!). This area of the forest was noticeably more open and produced a slightly different avifauna; Indochinese Bushlarks and all 3 species of parakeets were notably more common, as were Burmese Shrikes and a single Oriental Honey-Buzzard perched up for us. Our drive back was relatively calm, except for the odd Lesser Adjutant circling in distance until we noticed a medium-sized bird flush up in front of us; jumping out of the vehicle it was, as we suspected – a cracking male White-rumped Falcon! This species has only been observed less than a handful of times in this area and this was now the second tour running that we have found a stunning male. We watched this small falcon for 30 minutes as it tore apart the snake it had just caught on the road, allowing plenty of video and photographs opportunities as it allowed us to approach to within 5 metres, completely oblivious to our presence! Once it had finished most of its meal it began to run up and down the branches before settling down and allowing us to leave it undisturbed. Sadly it was time to say our good-byes to the ever-friendly village of Tmat Boey and make the bumpy journey to the town of Kompong Thom, nestled along the northern shore of the Tonle Sap in an area famous for its population of Bengal Floricans discovered only relatively recently by the late Sam Veasna. Unfortunately the habitat in which the bird favours - open, wild grassland is rapidly being converted to ricefields, severely threatening the populations of this species around Tonle Sap. This early in the dry season much of the area was still flooded but we used our local knowledge to find an area that was now relatively dry although we were acutely aware that the Floricans do not usually arrive back until January. While scanning the open fields from the top of our jeep, pairs of Red Avadavats zipped by like dazzling red bullets, pipits were common with wintering Richard’s & Red-throated accompanying the resident Paddyfield and Black Drongo’s were perched literally everywhere! Overhead Painted Storks were often in view, as were the occasional Lesser Adjutant, Spot-billed Pelican and a flock of 30 Woolly-necked Stork and both Pied and Eastern Marsh Harriers quartered the surroundings. As the temperatures once more dropped and the sun began to slowly creep down we were amazed to spot a Bengal Florican flying straight towards us, not only that but the bird most co-operatively decided to land just in front of us and feed in a recently grazed area of land, showing itself to be an immature male, quite exceptional!

Mekong Wagtail, River Mekong                                            (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia)

Rising early we headed to an area of flooded rice fields but as expected the floods had yet to recede sufficiently for us to reach the wintering areas of Maunchurian Reed-Warbler. Birding instead around the local fisherman and workers produced large numbers of the more common shorebirds; Wood & Marsh Sandpipers, Little Ringed-Plovers, Pacific Golden-Plover, several nice views of Eastern Yellow Wagtail and a flock of 18 White-shouldered Starlings flew-past. The vegetated margins held large numbers of wintering Oriental Reed- and Dusky Warbler and with persistence prolonged views were had of Black-browed Reed-Warblers and Striated Grassbird. We returned to Kompong Thom for a late breakfast before heading east, crossing the impressive Mekong River then heading north along the rivers edge to the bustling town of Kratie, famous for its populations of the increasingly rare Irrawaddy River Dolphin. Heading out to the nearby marshes and scrub on the edge of town allowed for some relaxing birding, Black-backed Swamphen, Burmese Spot-billed Duck and hawking Blue-tailed Bee-eaters being particularly common around the marshes, the roadside scrub was particularly productive for wintering warblers; Oriental Reed & Dusky being particularly numerous with additional sightings of both Black-browed Reed and a showy Thick-billed Warbler. We returned to our hotel in time to enjoy the red sunset over the Mekong, a suitable ending to yet another exciting day.

Our final morning in Cambodia was greatly anticipated as we were to  take a boat ride out on to the mighty Mekong River to search the small vegetated islets for the recently described Mekong Wagtail. As the water-levels were still high, the birds had few choices about where to perch; hence we quickly located several birds allowing superb views as they sat amongst the vegetation ‘doing their thing’. As we leisurely went from islet to islet we had many close encounters with the endangered Irrawaddy River Dolphin and birdlife along the river was very varied; a Peregrine Falcon gave prolonged views, several Pied Kingfishers were seen and fishing close by and a pair of Burmese Spot-billed Duck attempted to keep a low profile out of view of the marauding Peregrine. We then made our way back to the shore and birded around the car-park, this was surprisingly productive, 2 Asian Brown Flycatchers sallied overhead, a fruiting tree held the usual variety of bulbuls and a Plain-backed Sparrow ‘chipped’ from a nearby palm. A nearby flooded field held large numbers of Lesser Whistling-ducks and Cotton Pygmy-Geese along with perched Asian Openbills and several recently fledged Pheasant-tailed Jacanas. Returning to Kratie for a late breakfast we then made our way to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, to connect with our flight to Bangkok bringing to an end to this most enjoyable tour.

We saw a total of 195 species with just an additional 1 species heard.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia                                                                      (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia)

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