Remote Indonesia – South Maluku
(Seram, Buru, Ambon and Kai) and Tanimbar
27th September – 24th October 2009
Leaders: Rob Hutchinson and James Eaton
Max group size: 7
View Larger Map. Click in pins for locality.Maluku forms a major part of Wallacea, an endemic-rich transitional zone between Oriental and Australasian faunal zones. The Maluku islands are host to more than 80 endemics and many more Wallacean endemics, yet this is one of the least-known regions in the world, visited by only a few ornithologists and birders.
We will visit the south Maluku islands of Seram, Buru and Kai which between them host more than 40 species endemic to the Moluccas. On Seram they include the spectacular Salmon-crested Cockatoo, Long-crested Myna, Seram Mountain Pigeon and Lazuli Kingfisher. On Buru there are 14 single-island endemics including three little-known endemic parrots and the rare Rufous-throated Dark-eye which is restricted to the high mossy forests. On Kai we will look for the four endemics; Kai Coucal, White-tailed Monarch, Great and Little Kai White-eyes plus several near-endemics and likely future splits. We also visit the Tanimbar islands, geographically part of the Lesser Sundas, where a further 12 endemics are found. These include two desirable Zoothera thrushes; Slaty-backed and Fawn-breasted plus Tanimbar Scrubfowl and Tanimbar Corella.
This tour is very much an expedition; living conditions will be basic for much of the tour, travel sometimes uncomfortable and flight and boat connections often delayed or cancelled without reason. Our itinerary will be very flexible to cope with these factors, and participants should have a spirit of adventure and considerable patience to appreciate fully this fascinating region. Although the walking is easy in many areas, participants need to be fit to cope with the rather arduous trekking on Buru.
The rewards for these small hardships are great however, with the unique opportunity to seek out some of the most enigmatic and little known birds in the world.
Day 1:
Arrival into Ambon, the central travel hub of the Maluku islands, eastern Indonesia. Any spare time will be spent searching for the only island endemic, the common and widespread Ambon White-eye.
Day 2:
Today we head southeast from Ambon to the remote Kai Islands in the south of Moluku, flying from Ambon to Tual on Kai Kecil Island, the largest town in the island group.
Days 3-4:
Two full days to explore Kai Kecil and Kai Besar, the two main islands in the Kai group.
Although the islands have lost much of their primary forest, the four Kai endemics seem able to survive well in the remnant forest patches and scrub. On Kai Kecil these are the rather widespread and conspicuous Kai Coucal, White-tailed Monarch and Little Kai White-eye. To see the final endemic - Great Kai White-eye - we will take a ferry to the island of Kai Besar where it can be found in remnant forest patches.
Other species possible during our time on the Kai Islands are Yellow-breasted Pygmy Parrot, Kai Cicadabird, Green Figbird, Grey Whistler, Varied Triller and the huge Channel-billed Cuckoo. The Mistletoe bird here is very distinctive and probably a separate endemic species.
Day 5:
Today we fly to Saumlaki, on Yandema in the Tanimbar archipelago which are geographically classified as the easternmost of the Lesser Sundas.
Days 6-8:
Three full days will be spent exploring forest patches along the main road running along the east coast of the island and along various logging trails.
The Tanimbars are host to 13 endemic species including Tanimbar Corella, Tanimbar Scrubfowl and two exciting Zoothera thrushes; the stunning Slaty-backed Thrush and the more skulking Fawn-breasted Thrush. The Tanimbar Bush Warbler, described as recently as 1987 is another skulker which will require patience in order to obtain good views.
Other forest dwellers include Cinnamon-tailed and Long-tailed Fantails, Loetoe Monarch, Tanimbar Oriole, Tanimbar Friarbird, Golden-bellied Flycatcher and the unobtrusive, canopy-dwelling Pied Bronze Cuckoo.
Fruiting trees may attract a variety of frugivores including Rose-crowned and Wallace’s Fruit-Doves and Bar-necked Cuckoo Dove while flowering trees attract Tanimbar Starling and Blue-streaked Lory.
Night-time excursions should produce the recently-split Tanimbar Boobook and even the rare Lesser Masked Owl is a possibility.
Day 9:
After some final birding on Tanimbar we head back again to Ambon for an overnight stay.
Day 10:
Today we fly west to Namlea, the main city on the island of Buru. Despite holding no fewer than 13 endemic, Buru has been visited by very few birders and we will be seeking out some of the least-known species in the region.
Days 11-19:
We will begin our search in lowland forest remnants, searching in particular for Buru Green Pigeon (a split from the Pompadour Green Pigeon complex) and the rare Blue-fronted Lorikeet.
We will then embark on an exciting trek of several days into the interior of the island. The route will take us through some excellent forest areas where we can expect to find endemics such as Buru Golden Bulbul, Buru Oriole, Buru Friarbird, Buru Cuckooshrike, Streak-breasted Jungle Flycatcher, Cinnamon-chested Flycatcher, Buru White-eye and the beautiful Buru Racquet-tail. Our target area is a bird-rich ridge at a high enough altitude to find most of the remaining endemics; Buru Honeyeater, Buru Thrush and maybe even the enigmatic Rufous-throated Dark-eye, a species recorded on just a few occasions before we located it here during our recce tour in 2006. Other species at these higher altitudes include the recently-split Buru Mountain Pigeon and Hantu Boobook, and we can always hope for the almost unknown and apparently nocturnal Black-lored Parrot.
Day 20:
Today we return to the familiar travel hub of Ambon for an overnight stay.
Day 21:
A ferry ride will bring us to the mountainous island of Seram, much of it still forested and a large area protected within the huge Manusela National Park. Upon arrival we will drive to the north coast in time to begin our explorations of this fascinating island.
Days 22-27:
We have five full days to find the specialties of the island. A new road between the south and north coasts bisects the western section of Manusela NP and provides access to mid-montane areas previously accessible only by arduous treks into the island interior. We will split our time between the coastal lowlands and these higher reaches. A major target with be the spectacular endemic Salmon-crested Cockatoo which has become increasingly rare as a result of trapping for the cagebird trade. We will also seek out Seram Golden Bulbul, Seram Oriole, Seram Friarbird, Streak-breasted Fantail, Ashy Flowerpecker, Moluccan Red Lory, Cinnamon-chested Flycatcher, Blyth’s Hornbill, Gurney’s Eagle, Great Cuckoo Dove and many other fantastic birds.
The higher altitude areas hold Seram Mountain Pigeon, Drab and Seram Honeyeater, Grey-hooded and Rufescent Dark-eyes. In the lowlands we can also hope to find Common Paradise Kingfisher, Long-crested Myna and Lazuli Kingfisher.
Both Hantu Boobook and Moluccan Scops Owls are present if we haven’t already encountered them.
Day 28:
Return to Ambon to connect with international departures.
Walking:
Easy to moderate in many areas but strenuous trekking in some places. Participants need to be fit.
Accommodation:
Hotel are of a good standard on Ambon but elsewhere we will stay in a mixture of simple hotels, basic guesthouses and family homes. During our treks we will stay in primitive tarpaulin camps.
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