Myanmar (Burma) Custom Tour

19th December 2006 – 1st January 2007

Leader: Rob Hutchinson

Participants: Ron Demey and Rita Swinnen

White-browed Nuthatch, Mount Victoria, Burma                            © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

This route covering Bagan, Mount Victoria, Kalaw and Lake Inle was immensely successful and an enjoyable insight into this friendly and fascinating country. The birds performed well with Bagan producing all the hoped for dry-zone endemics – Hooded Treepie, Jerdon’s Minivet, Burmese Bushlark and White-throated Babbler. Mount Victoria allowed us wonderful views of the endemic White-browed Nuthatch, other regional specialties including Chin-hills Wren Babbler, Spot-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, Brown-capped, Assam, Striped and Blue-winged Laughingthrushes, Red-faced Liocichla, Mount Victoria Babax, Rusty-fronted and Streak-throated Barwing, Kalij Pheasant, Spot-breasted and Black-throated Parrotbill, Black-throated, Black-browed and Black-bibbed Tits, Spot-winged Grosbeak, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie and Black-headed Shrike Babbler.
At the pleasant hill-station at Kalaw we found Spectacled Barwing, Black-backed Sibia, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Silver-eared Laughingthrush, Collared Myna, Crested Bunting, Black-headed Greenfinch and the rare Burmese Yuhina. We finished the tour at the scenic Lake Inle with excellent views of Jerdon’s Bushchat and an abundance of wintering wildfowl which included a fine male Baikal Teal. Our species total was 334 in 13 days.

The tour began with an early morning flight north from the capital Yangon (formally Rangoon) north into the arid heart of Burma. Our early departure and faster than normal flight (aboard one of Burma’s few commercial jet aircrafts!) put us in Bagan earlier than expected and we took full advantage by venturing out into the dry acacia-dotted landscape amid the hundreds of ancient temples for which the area is famous. Our focus however were the several endemics birds that can be found in the area and we began immediately, enjoying bold White-throated Babblers which fed unconcerned in the open with long-tails cocked, and the subtle Burmese Bushlarks which allowed excellent close range studies as they fed in close (family?) parties.
The biggest bonus however was the furtive party of four endemic Jerdon’s Minivets including a gorgeous orange-breasted male which eventually gave great views as they settled to feed in an open field – this species can be rather erratic in its appearances so it was great to see them so easily on this occasion. Yellow-eyed Babbler and Plain-backed Sparrows were also seen, a small group of Jungle Mynas joined the Common Mynas, a group of Black-crowned Night Heron were seen flying and perching distantly and Black-shouldered Kite and Oriental Honey Buzzards passed overhead. A nearby town park gave some respite from the heat and held migrants including Red-throated Flycatcher, an obliging perched Crested Goshawk and Grey-headed Parakeets while Plain Martin and Temmincks Stint were seen during a riverside lunch stop.
Our afternoon birding both Brown and Burmese Shrike, Brown Prinia, Thick-billed Warblers ‘chacking” from the undergrowth and several views of Spotted Owlet. In the late afternoon sharp eyes spotted the distinctive silhouette of a Hooded Treepie disappearing into a nearby bush and we soon tracked down this smart grey, black and white bird with its bizarre spatulate tail feeding in a cactus bush and enjoyed great views of this elusive endemic.
Wandering around the fields produced several flushed quail species but none were seen satisfactorily, fortunately a flushed Chinese Francolin was more straightforward to identify.
The following morning we headed out early and found the birds very active in the relative cool of the early morning and wintering passerines included Buff-throated, Dusky and Radde’s Warblers and a single Olive-backed Pipit. We again flushed several quail and buttonquail species but were unfortunate not to get satisfactory identifiable views and a calling Chinese Francolin remained well hidden. Eastern Marsh Harrier and 6 stunning male Pied Harriers passed by on their way out to feed and a flyover Changeable Hawk-Eagle was a surprise.
Moving on we found a Western Marsh Harrier and an immature White-eyed Buzzard perched on telegraph posts in a particularly dry area and had good views after a short trek through the semi desert. With the temperature now rising we headed to a nice shaded dry river gully and finished the morning with Blue-throated Flycatcher, Wryneck and a gorgeous male Daurian Redstart.
In the afternoon we took a relaxing but bird-filled journey by boat along the famous Irrawaddy River. Water-birds included good numbers of Indian Spot-billed Duck and Ruddy Shelduck, Common Teal, Little, Intermediate & Great Egrets, Great Cormorant, Greenshank, Spotted Redshank, Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers. The sand-bars and river-banks held good numbers of scuttling Sand Larks and the abundant leucopsis White Wagtails included a single baicalensis bird. River Lapwing; a classic Asian ‘big river’ bird showed nicely and despite very windy conditions our stop on a large island covered with elephant grass produced male and female White-tailed Stonechat and Striated Prinia. Heading back to Bagan both Red Avadavat and Pied Kingfisher were added and we finished with a lovely group of Small Praticole perched on the sandbars and in flight where the black-and-white wing pattern was particularly striking.
We departed early the next morning heading for the famous peak of Mount Victoria taking the opportunity for several birding stops. The first stop for close views of a perched White-eyed Buzzard also produced Purple Sunbird and Scarlet-backed Flowerpeckers. Continuing onwards Oriental Honey Buzzard, Crested Goshawk and Eurasian Sparrowhawk were all seen but the best birding was in the mature dry dipterocarp forest for here we found several large feeding flocks; a large group of noisy Lesser Necklaced-Laughingthrushes were joined by several stunning Red-billed Blue Magpies while larger groups held Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Black-hooded Oriole, Gold-fronted Leafbird, Yellow-vented Flowerpecker, a small group of Yellow-bellied Warblers, Rufous-fronted Babbler, Pin-striped Tit-Babbler and a Himalayan Flameback that flew in and landed right in front of us allowing excellent views of the subtle differences separating it from Common Flameback. Further stops along the route produced Crested Treeswifts and Ashy Woodswallows with a close perched Yellow-footed Green Pigeon on our last break before arriving in the evening at our comfortable rustic lodge on the lower slopes of Mount Victoria.

We began our first day in the lower altitude broadleaf forest just above the lodge.
We soon heard the distinctive calls of a pair of Spot-breasted Scimitar-Babblers – another specialty of this region following the splitting of the complex of the same name into 4 species. They remained distant so we headed into the wooded thicket and were rewarded not only with views of the Scimitar-Babbler but also a feeding party in the undergrowth that included Assam Laughingthrush (a recent split from the Chestnut-crowned complex and yet another west-Burma specialty), Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babblers and amazingly a Blue-winged Laughingthrush, one of the most skulking and elusive of the laughingthrush family, which gave good views even venturing out into the open to feed on berries. The same fruits also attracting both Black-breasted and Scaly Thrushes to this area.
Birds are particularly abundant and active on this relative mild part of the mountain and we saw many species that were to become very familiar during our time here including Green-backed Tit, Great and Golden-throated Barbet, Flavescent Bulbul, Buff-barred, Ashy-throated, Greenish and Yellow-browed and Grey-hooded Warblers, Slaty-backed and Rufous-gorgeted Flycatchers, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Grey Bushchat and Olive-backed Pipit together with scarcer species including Yellow-cheeked Tits, a delightful flock of Black-throated Tits, Silver-eared Mesia, White-browed Shrike Babbler, Short-billed Minivet, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Crested Finchbills, the only Mountain Imperial Pigeon and mega close views of a diminutive Chestnut-headed Tesia.
Finally in late morning we heard the distinctive song of the Striped Laughingthrush – an east-Himalayan endemic with a preference for disturbed habitat. We had no problems persuading them to come closer but they were frustratingly elusive, singing from deep in the grassy field on the slope below us. After a long wait they did oblige however by climbing up out of the grass into a small bush where we enjoyed nice views of these smart birds.
In the afternoon we made our first visit up into the lush evergreen forest zone which covers much of the mid-altitude zones of Mount Victoria. Here we found our first Grey Sibia, Striated and Mountain Bulbul, Yellow-bellied and White-throated Fantail, Whiskered and Stripe-throated Yuhinas, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush and Blue-Whistling Thrush. Scarcer species included a small group of Asian House Martins overhead, Black-throated Prinia (a recent split from Hill Prinia), Himalayan Red-flanked Bluetail, Bar-tailed Treecreeper, Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker and a Stripe-breasted Woodpecker.

   

  Black-headed Shrike Babbler, Mount Victoria              Mount Victoria Babax, Mount Victoria

We finished the day in the scrubby pine zone we found Blue-throated Barbet, Grey Treepie, a Scaly-breasted Wren-Babbler skulking in the roadside undergrowth and finally a group of Red-faced Liocichlas in the scrubby roadside vegetation which obliged by coming right out to feed on the side of the road.
On our second day we departed early and after two stops to enjoy Grey Nightjars perched on the Jeep track we were eagerly awaiting sunrise high on the mountain. As the first rays of sun hit the trees birds burst into life. Chestnut-tailed Minla, Stripe-throated Yuhina, Vivid Niltava and near-endemic Assam and Brown-capped Laughingthrushes were the first to appear in nearby cherry trees, followed shortly afterwards a Darjeeling Woodpecker giving great views then the excited piping-calls of the endemic White-browed Nuthatch drew our attention to these stars of the area which appeared in a nearby tree and we enjoyed excellent views of these striking birds – amazingly we were to enjoy multiple sightings of this delightful birds on all but one day of our visit! We spent the rest of the day walking down through the evergreen forest on the far side of the mountain and new birds kept coming – a Scaly-breasted Wren-Babbler responded well to playback and gave reasonable views but a Chin Hills Wren-Babbler was more skulking, giving only fleeting glimpses, a flyover Ashy Wood Pigeon, Rufous-bellied (and another Stripe-breasted) Woodpecker, good views of wintering Grey-sided Thrushes, Green Shrike Babbler, Rusty-fronted and Streak-throated Barwing, and a pair of White-tailed Nuthatches allowed a useful comparison as they fed right alongside their commoner Chestnut-vented relatives. Common-Hill Partridge, although calling loudly, couldn’t be seen on the steep slopes but we did get good looks at a fast-moving party of Nepal Fulvettas and a group of Black-browed Tits; another species which is surely easier to see in Myanmar than anywhere else in its restricted range.
Best birds of the afternoon went to a pair of super-sized Spot-breasted Parrotbills which appeared then soon disappeared but were relocated in a nearby grassy clearing where they gave excellent close views whilst belting-out their loud calls.
Another predawn start the next day again gave views of Grey Nightjars, 2 individuals seen perched on the track and more excitement was to come after dawn when a group of turquoise Yellow-billed Blue Magpie flew across the road in front of our jeep and landed in trees nearby. Piling out we had further brief views before disappearing from view, but not wishing to be outdone we followed and eventually tracked down the group of 4 birds which gave fantastic close and prolonged views.
Continuing our drive we again piled out for some ‘laughingthrushes’ flushed from the roadside which proved to be our first Mount Victoria Babax which showed well in a nearby gully and amazingly this was repeated just 5 minutes later when another group of these smart, streaky birds was spotted from the car and watched at close range. Although it has been suggested that this recently split species should remain as a sub-species of Chinese Babax, the distinctive vocalizations and lack of response to playback to calls of the latter suggest that it might indeed prove to be a valid species.
After some birding high on the mountain, producing another fly-over Ashy Wood Pigeon, another party of Black-browed Tits, a pair of Black-bibbed Tits and several Rufous-bellied Woodpeckers, much of the day was then spent walking slowly back through the evergreen forest. Here we added a very obliging Crimson-breasted Woodpecker which fed on the same branch for more than 20 minutes, Grey-crowned Warbler, Hume's Warbler, Blyth’s Leaf Warbler and Black-eared Shrike Babbler. A group of Rusty-capped Fulvettas fed unobtrusively in the bamboo understory but were not easy to view and a Broad-billed Warbler came out from the bamboo briefly but soon disappeared. The last hour in the lower pine zone gave us a pair of Pale Blue Flycatchers and a wintering Pale-legged Leaf-Warbler betrayed its presence with its distinctive calls. A huge flyover accipiter proved to be an adult Northern Goshawk.

Spot-breasted Parrotbill, Mount Victoria, Burma                      © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

We began the following morning with the now customary Grey Nightjar and began in the open areas above the evergreen forest with Ashy Wood-Pigeon, Long-tailed and Grey-chinned Minivet, Black-throated Prinia, showy Buff-throated Warblers and both Black-browed and Black-bibbed Tits – the later representing a tiny population of the species far from the main range in China. Moving down into the forest the mixed feeding groups again include such delights as Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Ashy-throated and Grey-throated Warbler, Black-eared Shrike Babbler and Yellow-cheeked Tit. Wedge-tailed Green-Pigeon, Asian Barred Owlet, Yellow-browed Tit, Chestnut-crowned Warbler and Whistler’s Warbler were new for us while we finally had good views of Broad-billed Warbler.
We spent some of the afternoon in the open scrub / pine zone and were rewarded when the distinctive calls of Spot-winged Grosbeak drew our attention to the bulky form of an immature male perched right at the top of a dead tree nearby. Moving to finish in the broadleaf forest above the lodge we found some very responsive Chin Hills Wren-Babblers which came close, at times almost at our feet, but views were not ideal in the fading light. The birding was not yet finished however as we located a pair of roosting Kalij Pheasants which we watched in the gathering loom with better views by spotlight for those who ventured out after dinner.

Spurred on by the wren-babblers of the previous evening we started again in the same area and the birds again behaved well – initially rather elusive as they crept around, singing from deep in the undergrowth, but one eventually chose a perch where we could all enjoy great views as it sang and preened in the early morning sunshine. We also had better views of the Spot-breasted Scimitar-Babblers here – singing in the open in the telescope.
We then drove to the far side of the mountain, seeing Oriental Turtle Dove on route, and spent the remainder of the day in the evergreen forest there. Here we enjoyed our best views yet of Broad-billed Warbler and one of the feeding flocks held a surprise pair of Spot-breasted Parrotbill. The undoubtedly highlight today was heralded by quiet trilling and pattering in the bamboo undergrowth that transformed into a large flock of Black-throated Parrotbills which came closer and closer until they were literally all around us, feeding at super-close range until they again melted away into the bamboo. Distinctive calls allowed us to positively identify a Bianchi’s Warbler – another split from the former ‘Golden-spectacled’ Warbler and the first, but expected record from Myanmar.
As always the feeding groups here were varied and included Lesser Yellow-nape (new for the trip) Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, no less than four Rufous-bellied Woodpeckers, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Grey-headed Warbler, Grey-crowned and Blyth’s Leaf Warbler, Rusty-fronted Barwing, White-tailed Nuthatch and yet another group of Black-browed Tits – an excellent showing for this scarce species. And on the return drive we flushed an Ashy Wood-Pigeon from the road and saw our first Large Niltava was very welcome after hearing then several times in previous days.

With almost all of targets seen our final day started again in the lower altitude forest with Rufous-bellied and Large Nitava, Flavescent Bulbul, many calling Greenish Warblers, Silver-eared Mesia and a Scaly Thrush. Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler which we had only heard the day before appeared in an overgrown field.
We then headed into the evergreen forest just as the sun was hitting and bird activity was beginning. Spending much of the day in this lovely forest produced some excellent feeding flocks with Streak-breasted, Rufous-bellied and Crimson-breasted Woodpeckers, Crested Finchbill, a large group of Back Bulbul, Black-throated Prinia, Black-eared Shrike-Babbler, Rusty-fronted Barwing, White-tailed Nuthatch, Blyth’s Leaf Warbler, Grey-crowned Warbler, nice brief views of Rusty-capped Fulvettas and an amazing flock of more than 15 Verditer Flycatchers. Undoubted bird of the day was a superb female Black-headed Shrike Babbler which was spotted by Rita feeding unobtrusively just above our heads in the mid-canopy and which proceeded to give great views, just above, at, and even below eye level – a really exceptionally showing for this elusive canopy-dweller.

  

Collared Falconet, Kazunma, Burma                    Spectacled Barwing, Kalaw, Burma

The next days drive back to Bagan was again broken with several birding stops. Several stops in the early morning gave several Rufous Treepie, Lesser and Greater Racquet-tailed Drongo’s, Red-billed Blue Magpie and perched Red-breasted Parakeets. Reaching good forest a large feeding group held Rosy and Small Minivets, Gold-fronted Leafbird, White-rumped Shama, Large Woodshrike, Yellow-bellied Warblers, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Red-headed Trogon, Lineated Barbet, a distinctive race of Grey-faced Woodpecker with bronze-toned wings, Grey-headed, Blossom-headed and Alexandrine Parakeets, Green-billed Malkoha and an obliging Asian Barred Owlet.
And a short while later the distinctive patkaicus race of White-crested Laughingthrush with an entirely chestnut lower –breast and belly contrasting with a white breast.
An opening in the forest allowed excellent views of a delightful Collared Falconet perched atop a dead snag and nearby, close views, perched and in flight, of a Changeable Hawk Eagle.
Early the next morning we departed Bagan flying via the famous city to Mandalay to Heho. From here we headed up into the hills once more to the charming hill station at Kalaw.
In the afternoon we birded the scrubby hillsides close to town and quickly found many new birds for the tour – smart black-headed tricolor Long-tailed Shrikes, White-browed Laughingthrush, White-browed Scimitar-Babbler, skulking Grey-breasted Prinias, Slender-billed Oriole, Buff-throated Warbler and Common Rosefinch. Additionally we found a smart Grey-faced Woodpecker which eventually obliged by perching out on a dead stump, a fly-over group of Grey-headed Parakeets and several Oriental Turtle-Doves.
We also found our main targets here – Spectacled Barwing; initially a skulking group which disappeared before we all had good views but later an obliging group which showed in full view, singing and feeding alongside smart Dark-backed Sibia (here the race castanoptera which distinct rufous wing markings) while striking Red-faced Liocichlas sang in full view and Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babblers came in very close to investigate our imitations giving unusually good views.
The next day was spent around the Yay-aye-kan Reservoir near Kalaw. Open areas on route to the evergreen forest surrounding near the reservoir produced several migrants including Dusky and Tickell’s, Yellow-browed and Greenish Warblers, Grey-backed Shrike, Wryneck and Daurian Redstart as well as resident Great Tits, Eurasian Jay, White-browed Laughingthrushes and showy White-browed Scimitar Babblers. The scrubby forest edge gave us Chestnut Bunting, great views of singing Spectacled Barwings, Silver-eared Mesia and flower cherry trees attracted good numbers of Dark-backed Sibia.
The evergreen forest here is becoming degraded but we still found the birding excellent with mixed flocks including 3 species of minivet (Long-tailed, Short-billed and Scarlet), Little Pied Flycatcher, White-bellied Erpornis, Blue-winged Minla, White-browed Shrike Babbler, Golden and Grey-throated Babbler, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Black-throated Sunbird, Chestnut-flanked and Japanese White-eyes, Black-hooded Orioles, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Ashy and Black Bulbuls. Forest streams held the usual Blue Whistling Thrush alongside a gorgeous pair of White-crowned Forktails.
More elusive inhabitants included a single Silver-breasted Broadbill, a pair of Red-headed Trogons, Red-faced Liocichlas which belied their usually elusive habits by sitting out in the sun to preen, Radde’s Warbler in grassy clearings and the delightful ground-dwelling Puff-throated Babbler and diminutive Asian Stubtail. We all eventually enjoyed excellent views of Silver-eared Laughingthrush – our second member of the complex formally lumped as ‘Chestnut-crowned’ Laughingthrush.
Our main target in this area is always the near-endemic Burmese Yuhina but they appear to have become scarcer in recent years and are now difficult to see – nevertheless we persisted and were justly rewarded in the late afternoon when a delightful group of 3 birds appeared right above our heads and although elusive we enjoyed several good views as they moved around the area with the brownish-toned crown & ear coverts, grey flanks and neck-collar all clear differences from the closely related Whiskered Yuhina which we had seen regularly at Mount Victoria.

Birding the next morning near to Kalaw town added Black-headed Greenfinch and Black-collared Starling. Making our way east towards Inle we made our first birding spot in a small agricultural area and before long were enjoying good views of a group of Collared Myna; a scarce and localized species which is much more easily found in Burma than in its remaining range of south west China or north east India. The area also produced a pair of Crested Buntings, the black and chestnut male with long crest being particularly dapper and further we made further stops; firstly for a fast-flying group of Fork-tailed (Pacific) Swifts then Grey-headed Lapwings in flight by the roadside.
In the afternoon we made our way by boat onto the immense Lake Inle and at the northern end found many wintering wildfowl and other waterbirds. Lesser Whistling-Duck, Little Cormorant, Garganey and Coot were the most prevalent but we also saw good numbers of Indian Spot-billed Duck, Nothern Pintail, Northern Shoveler, Wigeon, Teal and Gadwall with smaller numbers of Cotton Pygmy Goose, Ferruginous Duck, Tufted Duck, Red-crested Pochard, Ruddy Shelduck and Little Grebe. Other water-birds included the first Purple Heron for the tour, large numbers of Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Indian Swamphen, Black-winged Stilt, Wood Sandpipers and Citrine Wagtails among the abundant Eastern Yellow Wagtails, all feeding on the large floating mats of vegetation while a small group of Whiskered Terns fed low to the water, plucking insects from the surface. Both Western and Eastern Marsh Harriers quartered the area and causing frequent panic among the duck flocks and a single Heuglin’s Gull alongside the commoner Brown-headed Gulls.
The undoubted highlight however was a quite superb male Baikal Teal which we located in the late afternoon, sporting a striking buff, green, white and black face pattern and allowing excellent scope views.
In the evening as the sun began to set behind the nearby hills the Jerdon’s Bushchats came out to play in the reed-beds and we had great views of at least 6 males and a single female of this extremely localized species.
We recorded 338 species in 13 days of birding including 4 which we heard only.

Lake Inle at sunset, Burma                                                      © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia