Leader: Rob Hutchinson

Participants: Wil van den Hoven, John Parish

Walden’s Hornbill, Central Panay Mountains ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

The aim of this tour was to seek out some of the rarest, least seen and most enigmatic of the Philippines endemic birds. The Philippines is justly acknowledged as having one of the richest endemic avifauna of any country in the world. This archipelago although barely the size of the British Isles hosts more than 220 species widely accepted as endemic and this is increasing continually as further research elevates more unique taxa to full species status. Sadly the Philippines have seen some terrible environmental damage and as this continues more and more birds are becoming increasingly rare. This tour was perhaps the most adventurous Philippines tour ever envisaged and we were thrilled with our success; the critically endangered Walden’s Hornbill took pride of place during our Philippines adventure, the remote Sierra Madre Mountains gave many species rarely seen elsewhere such as: Luzon Montane Racquet-tail, Luzon Striped-Babbler, Blue-breasted Flycatcher and the ultimate prize – Whiskered Pitta. On Mindoro we found the rare lowland endemics; Mindoro Hornbill, Scarlet-collared Flowerpecker, Black-hooded Coucal and Mindoro Boobook, and Tablas impressed with the super-rare Tablas Drongo, Tablas Bulbul and Visayan Boobook. Finally in Zamboanga we found the Zamboanga Bulbul – restricted to this rarely visited peninsula in south Mindanao, the only slightly less range restricted White-eared Tailorbird and stunning Philippine Dwarf Kingfisher.
We also paid just attention to those distinctive taxa which will soon be regarded as full species, thus ‘Camiguin Sur’ Yellowish Bulbul, ‘Philippine’ Variable Dwarf Kingfisher, Grey-throated Sunbird, Visayan Brown Dove and Mindoro Bulbul are expected as ‘armchair ticks’ in the near future.

The first morning saw us flying first to Cebu then onwards on a rather smaller propeller plane to the small, volcanic island of Camiguin, lying off the north east coast of Mindanao Island. Camiguin shot to fame in 2007 when a newly discovered hanging parrot, a member of the Colasisi complex, was described from the island. There is however much more of interest, including a host of highly distinctive taxon which although currently recognised as subspecies are likely to be rightfully recognised as full species in the near future. The hanging parrot is restricted to the forested mountains in the spine of the island and it was here that we concentrated our efforts, only to be dogged by bad weather which meant neither sight nor sound of this rare bird. We were very content though with our haul, especially the striking endemic subspecies; the most conspicuous of these is the widespread catarmanensis ‘Camiguin Sur’ Yellowish Bulbul which was seen daily. Another important species here is the margarethae race of Variable Dwarf Kingfisher, which is very distinct from those elsewhere including the closest populations on the Indonesian island of Halmahera. On the Philippines this species appears to be a specialist of small islands such as Camiguin and Tablas and in these areas is surprisingly common considering its absence from adjacent larger islands. We had some great looks at a pair which amazingly appeared to be nesting in exactly the same stream-side bank as the previous year.
Our first afternoon on Camiguin, spent in the central mountains of the island, produced a tape-responsive Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, smart nasutus Long-tailed Shrike, a nice group of Writhed Hornbills and our first looks at the catamarensis ‘Camiguin Sur’ Bulbul and were impressed by the vocal difference and different looks from the Yellowish Bulbuls of adjacent Mindanao island, the birds here being much larger and darker.

Spotted Wood Kingfisher (left) and Blue-breasted Flycatcher (right), Mount Dos Cuernos, Sierra Madre Mountains, Luzon. ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

The next morning began fine and this allowed us to add a brief Yellow-breasted Fruit Dove, a Plain Bush-hen crossing the track, four Philippine Cuckoo Doves and another Writhed Hornbill during our walk to the forest. In the forest we found a flock of wintering Eye-browed Thrush, Mountain Leaf Warbler and our first Mangrove Blue Flycatchers – another endemic subspecies and a small island specialist in the Philippines were it is confined to forest rather than mangroves. Two other distinct sub-species worthy of species consideration were also seen; the catarmanensis Black-naped Monarch and the larger and brighter yellow race of Yellowish White-eye of the same sub-species name.
Making our way back down the mountain a Philippine Serpent Eagle circled briefly and we had a game of cat-and-mouse with a sneaky Red-bellied Pitta before eventually enjoying great views of the stunning bird.
In the afternoon, with the mountain tops still shrouded in mist, we began in an interesting forest patch near some touristy hot springs and quickly saw our target – a pair of Variable Dwarf Kingfisher apparently nesting in a nearby bank for the second year in succession. Two Plain-throated Sunbirds were interesting in that they were of one of the maroon-throated races rather then the grey-throated birds on adjacent Mindanao, which are soon to be split as a different species – ‘Grey-throated Sunbird’.
After this success we continued to a mountain pass at a slightly lower altitude than our morning destination where conditions were still good for birding. Undoubted highlight were fine views of Rufous-lored Kingfisher, an elusive forest dwelling Kingfisher which was unknown from the island prior to 2007.
Our final morning was again wet and windy but we persisted in our last valiant attempts for the hanging-parrot but managed only White-eared Brown Dove and improved views of Philippine Serpent Eagle of note.

Philippine Scops Owl, Hamut Camp, Luzon ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Then it was time to drive to the south of the island for the ferry ride back across to the island of Mindanao which produced Great Crested Terns and a Red-necked Phalarope during the crossing. Skirting the coast of north Mindanao bought us to Cagayan de Oro city and our flight back to Manila. This arrived in perfect time to connect with our flight up to Laoag situated on the picturesque North West coast of Luzon. News from our contacts of bad weather over preceding days didn’t bode well for the journey the next day to Calayan Island but with starry skies and calm conditions in Laoag we went to sleep with high hopes. We were on the road before dawn the next morning, stopping for breakfast on a beautiful windswept section of coastline where migrant Pacific Swifts gave fine views overhead. Continuing onwards we added a roadside Peregrine Falcon and passed yet more stunning coastline scenery, but it became obvious that sea conditions were not looking favourable. Arrival at Claveria and -communication with our contacts of Calayan confirmed that the crossing was unsafe. With the prospects for crossing in the forthcoming days very uncertain, given recent conditions, some quick thinking was in order so after a series of phone calls plan B was put into action and we were soon on the road again with the equally exciting prospect of a trek into the Sierra Madre Mountains ahead.
By late afternoon we had organised supplies, recruited porters and were on our way into the mountains. The initial walk is through denuded grasslands but this nevertheless holds some interesting species; Red-keeled Flowerpecker, Philippine Bulbul, Paddyfield Pipit, Crested Myna, Blue-tailed Bee-eaters and Coppersmith Barbet were all additions but the biggest surprise was a Red-necked Phalarope on a small pool, which it shared with a Common Moorhen and a Green Sandpiper, a most unlikely location for this pelagic species! We also added Island Collared Dove which is now scarce or absent from much of the Philippines and at dusk some close views of hawking Savanna Nightjars. It was after nightfall when we arrived at camp 1 but it was soon transformed into a comfortable home as we enjoyed a fine meal under the stars before settling down to sleep in about the last place we could have imagined when we set out in the morning!

The next morning we began our birding in the lowest forest patches finding the only Amethyst Brown Dove of our stay together with several White-eared Brown Doves, and a fruiting tree held Philippine Fairy Bluebirds with shy Yellow-breasted Fruit Doves. Our first Colasisi and Guaiabero also appeared as did a host of other endemics; Elegant Tits, Sulphur-billed Nuthatch, Luzon Blue-headed Fantail, Yellow-bellied Whistler, Handsome Sunbird, Olive-backed and Bicolored Flowerpeckers, Stripe-headed Rhabdornis, Lemon-throated Leaf Warbler and Philippine Tailorbird. We also found our first Grey-throated Sunbird – a spilt form the Plain-throated Sunbird which we had seen on Camiguin – and the latest addition to the list of Philippine endemics.
In the mid-morning we began the trek up into the mountains towards our remote camping spot. The walk up passes through interesting forest and even during the middle of the day we found some activity. A Whiskered Pitta – perhaps the greatest star of this area – was persuaded to call but he was far down the slope below and couldn’t be tempted closer and we would have to wait a little longer for this prize.
We did add the spectacular endemic Scale-feathered Malkoha, a group of noisy but elusive Rufous Coucals, Philippine Trogons and great views of a pair of Sooty Woodpeckers. Vocal Blackish Cuckooshrikes were easily tempted closer, even from a great distance, and in the same productive clearing we saw Scarlet Minivet and White-lored Oriole.
Both Golden-crowned Babblers and Luzon Striped Babblers were found although not all managed great views, fortunately we were to get repeated views over the next few days as these are also true specialties of this area.
We arrived at our mountain camp in the late afternoon; set in a deep gorge with forest all around, this camp is a perfect setting to explore this wonderfully remote area.

Philippine Serpent-Eagle (left), Siburan, Mindoro and Pacific Swift (right), Hamut Camp, Luzon ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

The next day we began with a smart Spotted Wood Kingfisher near the camp but a Whiskered Pitta which called at dawn couldn’t be located. Then we climbed back up and spent the much of the day birding in the ridge top forest above our camp. Also immediately we heard Sierra Madre Crows, a rare montane corvid which is usually difficult to find, so it was great to score so easily with as many as 10 birds seen. A little while later we heard (some more than others!) the extremely high pitched song of a Rusty-faced Babbler (formerly Rabor’s Wren Babbler), at the top of the ridge with relative good views and tried our luck with play-back. Little did we expect that a short time later he would jump out right into the open just meters in front of us and we all had relatively good views of the skulking ground dweller. From here we slowly made our way along the pleasant ridge trail and it was here that we did indeed find ‘the prize’. Following the resonating calls, we moved closer and closer along the trail until we were sure that he must be within range, and he continued calling as we searched diligently and then… there it was…. a glowing red lump in the middle of the forest, morphed into a stunning Whiskered Pitta calling from his vantage point just off the ground. We all managed some views before he noticed us and hopped off again and although he remained close by he was elusive and only brief glimpses were had thereafter. The rest of the morning was slow but good birds continued to appear including some fine ‘purring’ Cream-bellied Fruit Doves and brief but very close views of both a Yellow-breasted Fruit Dove and a stunning Flame-breasted Fruit Dove in the same area. Then as we made our way back another Whiskered Pitta called close by, we moved into what seemed a good position, played its call and waited. We didn’t have to wait long though before a bulky red bird appeared on the slope and bounded towards us before stopping with unbelievable precision directly in a shaft of sunlight penetrating the canopy, and giving a quite stunning view with the red belly and blue upperparts positively glimmering. Also today we had an amazing view of a Scale-feathered Malkoha which flew in to just a few metres away to investigate us and an elusive White-browed Shortwing.
We again began near the camp next morning with another Spotted Wood Kingfisher and an obliging pair of Blue-breasted Flycatchers – another species which is very rarely seen away from this area. The rest of the morning was spent along the ridge with little new of interest until a viewpoint held some distant Rufous Hornbills.
In the afternoon we walked down again to base camp at the forest edge. The walk down began in style when a parrot spotted at eye-level turned out to be a Luzon Montane Racquet-tail, a difficult bird to find and very rarely seen this well. We followed this with a brief Luzon Hornbill, best views yet of Golden-crowned Babblers and Luzon Striped Babblers, and a diminutive Philippine Falconet keeping a sharp eye from dead trees. At dusk we attracted a Philippine Boobook for a good close view and then an amazing Philippine Scops Owl which stared down at us with big inquisitive orange eyes.
The next day we managed to squeeze in a few hours birding before it was time to leave and this was extremely productive, with the highlight our main target, the scarce and localised White-fronted Tit, a pair of which appeared right on cue for nice views. We also managed to add a bonus White-bellied Woodpecker, Striped Flowerpecker, a smart pair of Luzon Hornbills and a flock of Brown-headed Thrushes. The walk back across the barren grassland produced few birds of interest although Golden-headed Cisticola was new and we had great views of Island Collared Dove and an extremely obliging Pacific Swift. Then it was time for us to return to civilisation as we drove to Tuguegarao city and flew back to Manila. While we missed the serenity of the mountain, the soft bed, hot shower and delicious sea food was appreciated.

Mindoro Hornbill, Siburan, Mindoro ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Next morning was an early rise for our flight south to San Jose town on the island of Mindoro. After breakfast and the purchase of final provisions we headed north to our birding destination of Sablayan Penal Colony stopping en-route to watch elegant Oriental Pratincoles hawking by the roadside. Having registered and collected prisoners with an intimate knowledge of the forest we set off to the trails at Siburan sub-prison in search of the special birds of lowland Mindoro. The forest was already quiet in the morning heat but we did manage the island endemic Scarlet-collared Flowerpecker, and Blue-crowned Racquet-tail was seen in flight. We were immediately impressed by the distinctiveness of the Philippine Bulbuls of the race mindorensis here, surely as distinct as the Zamboanga Bulbul of the same complex and yet another species requiring further research! Whiskered Treeswift and Dollarbird both graced a large forest clearing inhabited by a local tribe, who still live in a traditional manner, surviving from the forest and wandering around either naked or with the most minimal of natural attire.
In the afternoon we transferred to nearby Lake Libuao. This large lake holds good numbers of waterbirds, with small numbers of Philippine Duck and rafts of Wandering Whistling Ducks the most significant.
Making our way slowly along the forest edge we found great bird activity with Bar-bellied Cuckooshrike, Black-bibbed Cuckooshrike, Blue-naped Parrot, ‘Palawan’ Crow (poor name for a species that occurs extensively to Mindoro!), Coleto and Black-and-white Triller. Vocal Mindoro Hornbills gave perfect views for extended periods as they called from bare trees in the scope and we added Philippine Green Pigeons.
The source of large numbers of pigeons was eventually tracked down to a huge fruiting tree. The tree had attracted large numbers of Green Imperial Pigeons and careful study of these found two rare Spotted Imperial Pigeon and good numbers of White-throated Pigeons, but the calling Pink-bellied Imperial Pigeons remained invisible.
As dusk approached we took up positions at the forest edge again and fortunately worries about the impact of recent logging here proved unfounded as a pair of Mindoro Boobooks appeared right on cue and gave their unique ‘screeching’ duet in full spotlight view.

The next morning we again headed into the forest and in the relative cool of the early morning bird activity was much greater. A calling Pink-bellied Imperial Pigeon was seen by some on a dead snag above the canopy and we all enjoyed nice perched views of the Blue-crowned Racquet-tails from the previous day. In a productive area we finally heard the resonating boom of Black-hooded Coucals within striking distance, and soon obtained excellent views of them right in the open – unusually obliging for this habitual skulker!
We took lunch at the scenic setting of Libuao Lake and a long rest from the midday heat produced some nice water-birds there. As the heat began to drop we again birded the forest edge back towards Siburan and again enjoyed great views of the previous days species plus an obliging perched Philippine Serpent Eagle.

Tablas Drongo (left), Dobduban, Tablas and Visayan Hornbill (right), Cebtral Panay Mountains ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

After a night at a pleasant beach resort near San Jose we flew back again to Manila, checking in immediately for our next adventure. Our flight in the afternoon again saw us boarding a tiny propeller plane for the short hop across to Tablas Island. The island with its tropical scenery, tiny villages and laid-back people provides an immediate contrast to Manila and we felt both relaxed and excited as we made the drive north along the rocky coastline to San Agustin. After lunch in the charming port town we set off for the short walk to our camping spot in the forest above the town, one of the few remaining forest areas on the island and protected as the main watershed area of the town. After setting up camp we set out birding nearby and met with instant success when a group of Tablas Drongo appeared nearby and gave views on-and-off for the rest of the day. This distinctive drongo with its long lyre-shaped tail is a split from the widespread ‘Spangled / Hair-crested Drongo’ complexes and is probably one of Asia’s rarest drongos, being restricted to Tablas island which itself has very little suitable habitat remaining. Indeed the species was feared extinct until its rediscovery here less than 10 years ago and it has been seen by just a handful of birders thanks to its former status as ‘only’ a subspecies. We also had our first views of the commoner Tablas Bulbul – a recent split from the Streak-breasted Bulbuls of Cebu and Siquijor islands. In the late afternoon Hooded Pitta’s became vocal and 2 birds responded to playback by flying back and forth with white wing flashes glowing in the dim forest.
As dusk fell the Visayan Boobooks began to call and we were able to call one closer, and though seen as it flew overhead it couldn’t be relocated when perched. This boobook is another split from the ‘Philippine Boobook’ complex of which we saw or heard no less than 4 species during this tour.

The next morning we again birded this area adding Magnificent Sunbird, White-vented Whistler, sauli Blue-headed Fantails, ‘Philippine’ Variable Dwarf Kingfisher and more good looks at both the Tablas Bulbul and Tablas Drongo before heading back again to San Agustin. Birding nearby in the afternoon found Barred Rail and Pink-necked Green Pigeon, and then we headed towards the coconut groves which are the favoured habitat of the small island specialist Mantanani Scops-Owl. They soon began to call and it wasn’t long before we tracked one down for an excellent close view. Philippine Nightjar was not so easy and it was quite frustrating to hike the steep slope to a hilltop field known to be a favoured spot only for them to call back from right where we started at the bottom! Our patient wait was rewarded however when it eventually came close and we had prolonged views as he belted out his “clonk clonk” call from atop a nearby banana leaf.
Our final morning began on the coast near San Agustin with Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Pied Triller, Pied Fantail, Black-naped Oriole, Golden-bellied Gerygone and a bonus Ashy Minivet before we headed for a nearby forest patch where the highlight was a fly-over Steere’s Honey Buzzard. After breakfast we returned south and again took a flight back to Manila connecting with our afternoon flight to Panay in the north of Panay Island.

Philippine Falconet (left), Zamboanga, Mindanao and White-eared Tailorbird (right), Zamboanga. Mindanao. ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Our first night on Panay was spent in a pleasant beach resort in preparation for perhaps the most eagerly anticipated part of the tour – our attempt to see the critically endangered Walden’s Hornbill.
Early the next morning we drove south, jumping out at a tiny village on the coast where we would begin our hike into the Central Panay Mountains. The walk began pleasantly, following the lowland rivers back up towards their mountain source but it soon became more challenging with some interesting river crossings but all were enjoyable and added to the experience of our quest. The lunch experience was also unique, served atop a fantastic waterfall. The afternoon walk left the rivers behind as we slowly made our way up the steeper, muddy slopes into the mountains before dropping down again to our camp, from where we could gaze out at still forest slopes across the valley. Eager to get started we headed for a nearby vantage point with good views across the valleys. Unbelievably in what seemed like no time at all we had located a Walden’s Hornbill perched across the valley in an open tree and we were able to enjoy many views over the next few hours of this supreme rarity. While watching, other birds appeared and we enjoyed views of Visayan Hornbill which also shared the same tree at the Walden’s, and a Stripe-breasted Rhabdornis of the distinctive race rabori and good views of Visayan Flowerpeckers which had only been seen poorly during the walk up. At dusk we had great views of Philippine Boobooks around the campsite.

The next day we took to the forest but the trails were difficult after the heavy rains so we made very slow progress. Birds were also thin on the ground but we eventually scored success with Visayan Blue-headed Fantails, a group of endemic White-winged Cuckooshrikes passed through, followed a short while later by close views of the maculipectus race or ‘Visayan’ Amethyst Brown Dove, and despite the rain showers we had some very close views allowing us to appreciate the striking plumage differences compared to the nominate Amethyst which we had seen at Hamut Camp. As we ate lunch both Steere’s Honey Buzzard and Philippine Serpent Eagles soared overhead and crossing a small river on the way back a streak of blue shot past and perched on nearby boulders – a fine male Indigo-banded Kingfisher.
The afternoon was again spent near the camp and again the Walden’s were enjoyed on the far hillsides showing nicely in the scope.
With the weather worsening in the evening making the already difficult trails almost impossible to navigate, and our camp almost ankle deep in mud, we made the decision that having seen all our target species the next morning we would shorten our time here by a day and head back early. As we started walking we finally managed to see Visayan Shama, having heard them daily until now it was great to finally get views of this striking bird. The walk out was tricky in the slippery conditions but less strenuous with gravity on our side and we were soon back in the village, showered and enjoying a feast in a local restaurant.
The next day we left early to fill our extra time with a day visit to Mount Makiling south of Manila. Our morning began with an all too brief Ashy Thrush appearing on the trail at dawn but disappearing before we could all see it. After several tries we finally found a responsive Philippine Hawk Cuckoo which glided overhead and perched nicely before gliding off again and out of sight, sadly before all could get views. Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black-chinned Fruit-Dove, Red-crested Malkoha, White-browed Shama, Grey-backed Tailorbird and Lowland White-eye were all new during the day.

Silvery Kingfisher (left) and Philippine Hawk Cuckoo (right), Zamboanga, Mindanao
©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

By the time we arrived in Zamboanga City the next morning it was already well after dawn so we headed immediately to the closest forest of the nearby watershed in the hope of catching some activity. This worked brilliantly as our walk along the forest edge gave us firstly great views of the regional endemic Zamboanga Bulbul and shortly afterwards prolonged views of a pair of White-eared Tailorbirds. It was not long before the distinctive calls of a Streaked Ground Babbler came from far in the gully below but as is often the case it was easily teased closer and we got nice views. We also finally – after many failed attempts – all saw a Philippine Hawk Cuckoo which made up for our partial previous success by giving amazing close views. Philippine Hawk Eagles overhead rounded off a great morning
In the afternoon we entered the watershed itself and concentrating on a small area of trail paid dividends. The high-pitched calls of our target were heard several times but we got no views until suddenly the calls were close and then a flash of red in the forest landed on a nearby branch and we were watching our main target – a gorgeous Philippine Dwarf Kingfisher. Another bird soon appeared and the pair gave great views – wow! Nothing else was going to beat this today but we did add another stunning endemic kingfisher – this time a beautiful Silvery Kingfisher on the nearby river with the striking pied plumage contrasting with amazing bright red legs. Horsfield’s Cuckoo, Mindanao Drongo, Brown Tit Babbler and Philippine Leaf Warbler were also added during this great day of birding.

Little Slaty Flycatcher (left) and Philippine Dwarf Kingfisher (right), Zamboanga, Mindanao ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Our night birding the next morning was dampened by a torrential shower but this soon passed and we entered the watershed where the forest produced little except yesterdays Horsfield’s Cuckoo again.
Moving to the more open forest boundary proved more profitable beginning with great views of a Little Slaty Flycatcher singing from the forest floor nearby. As we wandered back a pair of agitated Besra were making a commotion in the canopy overhead and we initially suspected that they might be guarding a nest nearby until the real object of their annoyance was spotted – a fine Chocolate Boobook sitting in plain view right over our heads! Here we also found stunning Black-faced Coucals
Soon it was time to leave and head further into the watershed and after a rather bumpy ride along bad roads we arrived at the research station at Baluno for an overnight stay. In the afternoon we birded along the road beyond the research station finding some small feeding flocks which included distinctive nigroluteus Scarlet Minivets and Mindanao Paradise Flycatcher, Metallic-winged Sunbird and some nice scope views of Naked-faced Spiderhunters.
Much of the next day was spent exploring the nearby forest trails and it was here that we found some interesting Mindanao endemics such as Mindanao Pygmy Babbler, Rusty-crowned Babbler, Blue Fantail, and good looks at Mindanao Hornbills, our fourth of the ‘Tarictic Hornbills’ for the trip and a great opportunity to study the plumage and bare-part difference of these formerly lumped species. We also saw a group of three Sooty Woodpeckers, here of the race fuliginosus, a noticeably different creature to those seen previously at Hamut, having a greyer plumage and more restricted red in the face.
Our final morning of the tour allowed some brief birding so we started early in another attempt to boost our owl list but we narrowly missed out of seeing both calling Giant Scops Owl and Mindanao Boobook as dawn broke. We did however add Rufous-tailed Jungle Flycatchers which sang away at point-blank range and Blue-crowned Racquet-tail before it was time to fly back to Manila and the culmination of an extremely successful and immensely enjoyable Philippine adventure.

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