Philippines – Main tour

3rd – 23th February 2008

Leader: Rob Hutchinson

Participants: Dick Byrne, Dylan Edwards, Bill Jones and Kevin O’leary

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Blue-capped Wood Kingfisher, PICOP, Mindanao      © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Our main three-week Philippines tour was extremely successful with a grand total of 148 endemics among the 327 species recorded. Highlights included the rare and critically endangered Philippine Eagle, 2 representatives of the endemic Rhabdornis family, 3 pitta species (Hooded, Red-bellied and the stunning endemic Azure-breasted), 6 endemic kingfishers including the impressive Blue-capped and Spotted Wood Kingfishers and the rarely-seen Philippine Dwarf Kingfisher.  We also enjoyed great views of Short-crested and Celestial Monarch, Philippine Cockatoo and an amazing close encounter with a stunning male Palawan Peacock Pheasant.

We began our tour this year in the mountains of Mindanao with a flight to Cagayan de Oro, a drive south into the heart of the island then a short trek into our rustic lodge with our luggage transported by mules in age old fashion. The great Philippine Eagle is always one of the most desirable birds for visitors to the Philippines so this was the big target for our first full day on the mountain. Fortunately after just a few hours of scanning we found our first of these magnificent birds soaring across the valley opposite and over the next hour enjoyed prolonged scope views of two birds perched and in flight. Peregrine Falcon, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Oriental Honey Buzzard of the bulbous-necked philippensis race and Philippine Serpent Eagle were also added during our scanning and all were also seen the next day including another sighting of that impressive Philippine Eagle.
Delighted by our success we were able to fully concentrate the remainder of our two full days on the mountain in search of the many other Mindanao highland endemics on offer. On the higher parts of the mountain we found Apo Myna with amazing punk hairstyles, super close views of feeding White-cheeked Bulllfinch, striking McGregor’s Cuckooshrike, Streak-breasted Rhabdornis and at our highest point a delightful pair of Apo Sunbirds performed.

    

Philippine Falconet (left) and Silvery Kingfisher (right), PICOP, Mindanao
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Lower down the mountain we tried to tempt out a Bagobo Babbler from the dense understory with its ultra high-pitched song but although it sang back only one of us was fortunate enough to be standing in the right spot to get a nice view as it appeared and likewise a Goodfellow’s Jungle Flycatcher which was only seen by a couple of us. Good views of mindanensis White-browed Shortwing were important as these birds are likely to be future splits from other vocally different races including the ones we later saw at Mount Polis on Luzon. In an open area of weeds and sunflowers we finally found as many as three Red-faced Parrotfinches and had great scope views of this usually skulking bird as they ventured out to feed on favoured seed heads.
Rufous-headed Tailorbirds were often heard and some gave nice views but the same could not be said of Long-tailed Ground Babblers which skulked in the undergrowth giving “jigsaw” views as we pieced together the various body parts. Stunning Black-and-Cinnamon Fantails were always a conspicuous feature of feeding flocks some of which also contained Cinnamon Ibon and Black-masked White-eye. Endemic Grey-hooded Sunbird were frequently seen as were a fine selection of Flowerpeckers; Fire-breasted, Buzzing, Red-keeled, Olive-backed and Olive-capped.
Our stay also added our first White-eared Brown Dove, spectacular but shy Yellow-breasted Fruit Doves, Philippine Cuckoo Dove, Philippine Drongo Cuckoo, Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, Philippine Coucal, Mindanao Hornbills, Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker, Mindanao Drongo, Elegant Tit, Sulphur-billed Nuthatches, Brown Tit Babblers, Philippine Leaf Warbler, Yellow-bellied Whistler, Short-tailed Glossy Starling and Coleto. Wintering visitors such as Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Mugimaki Flycatcher, Brown Shrike and Eye-browed Thrushes were appreciated as these are exciting vagrants or potential vagrants to our homes far to the west. Purple Needletails gave us great views but Philippine Swiftlets were surprisingly elusive in the fine conditions until we found an amazing flock of more than 200 on our final afternoon.
The rather unpredictable Bukidnon Woodcocks were not performing especially well during our stay, giving just the briefest of flights at dusk each day and it wasn’t until our final morning when we hiked higher up the mountain that we had amazing close views, with one bird actually flying right in between our group! Philippine Frogmouth was similarly elusive and our hours of wandering around in the mud produced nothing more than flight views – if only we could have guaranteed how easy they were to be at our next destination! Both Great-eared and Philippine Nightjar showed well around our accommodations at night.

   

Philippine Duck (left), Candaba Marsh, Luzon and Colasisi (right), Mt. Makiling, Luzon
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

After our final morning on the mountain the rest of the day was spent on the long drive to the east coast and the seaside town of Bislig, our base for exploration of the PICOP logging concession, home to some of the last remaining lowland forest on Mindanao – one of the most bird-rich habitats in the islands. Our three and a half day time investment here was more than justified as each day result in yet more species including some true trip highlights.
On the forest trails we found some of the more difficult forest birds like Philippine Trogon, a Red-bellied Pitta calling from high in the trees, Short-crested Monarch and a delightful group of Mindanao Wattled Broadbills, with whirring wings and snapping bills as they chased insects at close range. Also in the forest we found a fine Blue-capped Kingfisher which gave prolonged close views and capped a fine kingfisher day with Rufous-lored Kingfishers already seen the same day at dawn and Silvery Kingfishers later enjoyed on a small roadside pond.
The more open secondary forest and scrub is the favoured habitat of the skulking Little Slaty Flycatcher which we tracked thanks to its sweet sang, finding the difficult Rufous-tailed Jungle Flycatcher in the process. Here we also found an extremely tame Steere’s Pitta calling back to us at super close range and Black-headed Tailorbirds. Black-faced Coucal were elusive so we were grateful to get nice views right at the last moment and we twice had great views of Plain Bush-hens venturing out onto the road to feed as we cruised around the concession.
Our time spent in the open clearings with adjacent good forest was very profitable producing our only sightings of Steere’s Honey Buzzard and Philippine Hawk Eagle and several species which are difficult within the forest included the increasingly rare Philippine Fairy-Bluebird, Bicolored Flowerpecker, Naked-faced Spiderhunter, and on one lucky day both Rufous and Writhed Hornbills performed. Open areas also gave our only sightings of the very special wing shape of Philippine Needletails feeding overhead, a fly-by Blue-backed Parrot and a fine Blue-crowned Racquet-tail perched atop a forest giant.
These are of course just the highlights and our time here produced a fine list of birds such as Philippine Falconets regularly on dead snags, feeding flocks held Blue Fantail, Everett’s White-eye, Mindanao Pygmy Babbler, Rusty-crowned Babbler, Mindanao Paradise Flycatcher and in more open areas both Bar-bellied and Black-bibbed Cuckooshrikes, Scarlet Minivet, Philippine Leafbird and Philippine Oriole.
Regular pre-dawn owling attempts were successful with fine views of Chocolate and Mindanao Boobooks and great views of Philippine Frogmouth which ironically took us just seconds to find after so much unsuccessful time searching at Mount Kitanglad.
On one afternoon we visited the disused airfield close to Bislig town finding Pacific Golden Plovers and Blue-breasted Quails in the short grasses, Plaintive Cuckoo, a fine male Black Bittern, Swinhoe’s Snipe, Watercock and Philippine Swamphen in the adjacent swamps. At dusk we were treated to no less than four Eastern Grass Owls quartering the marshes.
Leaving Bislig behind, we headed south to Davao before flying back to Manila and an overnight stay. By dawn the next morning we were already at Candaba Marsh north of Manila. The area was thronging with birds and over the next few hours we enjoyed great views of Philippine Duck among thousands of wintering duck, of which the Pintail and Garganey were most resplendent. In the marshes we found Yellow Bittern, Cinnamon Bittern, Barred Rail, White-browed Crake, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, a brief male Watercock and iridescent Philippine Swamphen. In drier areas we added Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Australian Bushlark and Island Collared Dove was an important addition as the distinctive Philippine populations are likely to be considered a full species in the near future.

   

Flame-breasted Fruit Dove (left) and Mountain Shrike (right), Mount Polis, Luzon
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Leaving Candaba behind we stopped to admire singing Golden-bellied Gerygones then after breakfast most of the rest of the day was spent on the long drive north to Banaue, nestled in the Cordillera Mountains of Luzon and our base for their exploration.
The next two days were spent exploring the pass at nearby Mount Polis and birding the roadside beyond. The highlight of our time here came as early as the first morning when we heard the distinctive boom from Flame-breasted Fruit Doves from the slopes below but visibility was poor and even as we utilised the jeepney roof for extra height they seemed impossible to see when suddenly one seemed attracted by our playback of the calls and burst across the road to perch in full telescope view for all to appreciate this large and spectacular fruit dove with blood red face mask and breast. Many of the Luzon montane endemics were not too difficult to find with Chestnut-faced Babbler and Luzon Bush Warbler common. Green-backed Whistlers were less conspicuous but we still found several and a female Luzon Flame-crowned Flowerpecker with bright yellow underparts in complete contrast to the kampalili birds from Mindanao illustrated in the field guide. Many of these were associated with busy feeding flocks which included Elegant Tits, Sulphur-billed Nuthatch, Mountain Leaf Warbler, Luzon Blue-headed Fantail, Citrine Canary Flycatcher and at lower altitudes a Lemon-throated Leaf Warbler. At the pass we had great views of Mountain Shrikes in the cabbage fields and in the forest there great views of an obliging Long-tailed Ground Warbler which climbed up into a nearby bush showing off its long, scraggy tail to full effect. We were not quite so lucky with the other big skulker – the endemic Benguet Bush-Warbler – which showed briefly to some of us but thereafter proved basically impossible to see even when it approached to within a few meters. White-browed Shortwings, here of the race poliogyna, provided a useful comparison with the vocally different Kitanglad birds seen previously. We also again saw White-cheeked Bullfinches here but Island Thrush and a White’s Thrush that appeared on the roads ahead of us were both new.
One day we dropped down to the scenic village of Bay-yu where the fast flowing river below the impressive rice terraces held an entertaining pair of Luzon Water Redstarts which we watched for some time in this amazing setting.

Departing early we battled our way through the mountain fog and hideous traffic (and Australasian Bushlark and Oriental Pratincole) to arrive at Subic Bay by mid-afternoon just in time for some afternoon birding. This proved invaluable as we found several key species such as a noisy group of Rufous Coucal, Blackish Cuckooshrike, Whiskered Treeswifts and a Green Racquet-tail heard which we didn’t see again subsequently. Other trip exclusives added today at Subic Bay were Luzon Hornbill, Blue-naped Parrot and Blue-tailed Bee-eater.
The next morning was overcast and windy and this made the birding extremely difficult but we plugged away finding a very reactive pair of Sooty Woodpeckers, White-lored Oriole, Luzon Balicassiao, Luzon Hawk Eagle, wintering Ashy Minivet and elusive Philippine Tailorbirds which played hide-and-seek before giving great views.
In the afternoon we drove to Los Banos a resort famous for its hot springs which lies at the base of Mount Makiling. It was of course the mountain rather than the bathes that drew us here and we headed off early the next morning, racking up Philippine Boobooks before dawn before continuing up the mountain where we added to our endemic tally with Flaming Sunbird in their favoured red flowers, close views of Grey-backed Tailorbirds, White-browed Shama, Striped Flowerpecker, Yellowish White-eye and wacky Red-crested Malkoha. Wintering species were still in evidence including active Ashy Minivets, Brown-headed Thrushes and a White’s Thrush feeding on the open track. The afternoon was equally successful with Indigo-banded Kingfishers seen well on the nearby campus then both the endemic fasciata subspecies of Barred Buttonquail and Spotted Buttonquails appearing to feed, and even dust-bathe on the track. At dusk we met with instantaneous success when an awesome Philippine Scops Owl flew in to investigate, starring at us from just meters away with huge orange eye - and its star performance earned it the bird of the trip accolade.

Luzon Water Redstart, Bay-yu, Luzon               © Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

The next day on the mountain added a stunning Spotted Wood Kingfisher and two Scale-feathered Malkohas in the morning to everyone’s blatant relief then an afternoon search around the campus didn’t find the expected Lowland White-eyes but we did add Black-and-white Triller right at the death, a welcome pullback after of dip in bad weather at PICOP.
We transferred back to Manila the next morning to take our flight to the tropical island of Palawan, a much anticipated section of the trip and a perfect way to finish the tour in style. Upon arrival we headed straight for the nearby beach, arriving with less than perfect timing as the tide was already very high but fortuitously we managed to sneak in just enough time to find the main target of Chinese Egrets plus a bonus of Grey-tailed Tattler. The mangroves here also held Stork-billed Kingfisher, Pied Fantail and furtive Rufous-tailed Tailorbird.
After lunch in town we continued towards Sabang, stopping first at a mangrove area we found the expected Copper-throated Sunbirds but also less expected Ruddy Kingfishers which called continually but proved hard to get good views of despite approaching to close range on a couple of occasions.
Continuing onwards we made several stops and walked along the more interesting sections of roadside finding our first island endemics Yellow-throated Leafbird, Sulphur-bellied Bulbul, Palawan Drongo, Palawan Crow,  Palawan Swiftlet, White-vented Shama, Palawan Blue Flycatcher, Blue Paradise Flycatcher, Lovely Sunbird and Palawan Flowerpecker and charming Ashy-headed Babblers in the undergrowth plus the near-endemic Black-chinned Fruit Dove and Blue-naped Parrot and other south-east Asian species which are absent from the rest of the Philippines such as Asian Drongo-Cuckoo, Greater Coucal, Brown-backed Needletail, huge Great Slaty Woodpeckers, Common Flameback, Dark-throated Oriole, Asian Fairy-Bluebird, Pin-striped Tit Babbler and Common Hill Myna.

   
                                                                                                    
Chinese Egret (left), Garcelliano Beach, and Malaysian Plover (right), Sabang, Palawan
© Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Towards dusk we stopped at another forest patch which is renowned as a good place for search for night-time specialties. First to appear were Large-tailed Nightjars, which swooped low overhead in the spotlight and perched nearby giving their characteristic “chonk chonk chonk” territorial call. Terrible and unnecessary habitat destruction due to recent road improvements meant that we had to venture further into the forest to search for Palawan Frogmouths but we were ultimately very successful when one was tracked down thanks to its ventriloquist whistled song and gave prolonged views in the spotlight, earning this wonderfully hairy creature a top five position in the Bird of the trip competition. We had so far failed to hear Palawan Scops Owl but after a patient wait we heard his low crackled call and after just the right amount of gentle teasing a shadow swooped overhead and the flashlight illuminated the gorgeous owl perched on an open branch just a few metres away. Completely satisfied with a successful night-bird triplet we continued on to our simple beach resort at Sabang, and a welcome celebratory beer.
Our next two mornings were spent in the nearby Saint Paul’s National Park where we managed to find many of our missing endemics. On our first morning after a stunning boat ride along the coastline of endless forest and gigantic limestone pinnacles we witnessed a stunning Palawan Peacock Pheasant prancing in the undergrowth nearby, this bird has become rather habituated to people allowing a unique opportunity for such great views of this normally shy species, fingers crossed that he will live a few more years yet! Tabon Scrubfowls were also admired scratching in the leaf-litter, Rufous-backed Kingfisher, and a smart Hooded Pitta.
Here we also managed to find Blue-headed Racquet-tails and after frustrating glimpses of them screeched overhead we tracked them down to a fruiting tree for great looks in the scope, admiring their dexterity as they carefully balanced with one foot while picking and eating fruits with the other. Nearby we couldn’t find Falcated Ground Babblers at their usual spots, despite considerable efforts over the two mornings but a magnificent group of Great Slaty Woodpeckers did provide considerable compensation.
Our first afternoon was spent back along the access road to Sabang and again proved profitable. We chanced upon Palawan Tits when their ringing calls heard through the open van window brought us to a rapid stop and we all piled out for nice looks at this yellow and black stunner. Walking along a road a little more we completed our success when a Palawan Hornbill flew up into a nearby tree and was soon joined by another four individuals, all giving wonderful views of this comical bird. After this luck we headed back to try our luck in the rice fields at Sabang. Back at the resort the flooded rice fields behind the resort kept our attention and while admiring Bill’s considerable fishing talents we found a group of 31 Oriental Pratincoles passing overhead, Chinese Pond Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, White-browed Crake, and a surprise fly-by Chinese Blackbird, a first for the Philippines which we later discovered had been seen several times in previous weeks.
Our drive back the next afternoon bought a very close encounter with a Barred Buttonquail on the road verge but no more joy with the Ruddy Kingfishers in the mangroves.
Next morning we headed early to the Balsahan Trail within Iwahig Penal Colony right at the last moment and after hard work added nice views of the rather non-descript Molodious Babblers. Continuing along the trail and just when things looked hopeless we were almost incredulous to finally hear the distinctive duetted calls of Falcated Ground Babblers from close by. They proved elusive as always, playing cat and mouse for some considerable time before suddenly deciding to sit up, out in the open and give the best views imaginable! Fiery Minivets were also added and Greater Flameback here of the race erythrocephalus was our final possible race following on from montanus on Mindanao and haematribon of Luzon, and we were able to appreciate the striking plumage differences of these birds which are likely to be spilt soon.
Leaving behind the forest we stopped in the nearby rice fields finding large numbers of waders including two vagrant Temminck’s Stints among the numerous Long-toed Stints.
From here we continued south to the seaside town of Narra and in the afternoon we took a boat ride out to nearby Rasa island gaining distant views of several Philippine Cockatoos flying around and perched on the island, large flocks of Pied Imperial Pigeons in fruiting trees with Great-billed Heron a big bonus on the muddy foreshore.
Our last morning finished in a bamboo furnished roadside gulley where a Palawan Flycatcher proved super elusive giving only the briefest of views. We did add Chestnut-breasted Malkoha plus repeat views of several other island endemics including Palawan Blue Flycatcher and Blue Paradise Flycatcher.
Our flight back to Manila bought this enjoyable and extremely successful tour to the end.

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