The Philippines

8th – 28th February 2009

Leader: Rob Hutchinson

Participants: Jonty Denton, Duncan Himes, Rob Leighton, Roy Maurer,
Brian Sykes, Barbara Wilson, Martin Wootton

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Rufous Hornbill, PICOP Mindanao                ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

The Philippine archipelago is truly one of the most fascinating and exciting birding areas on the planet, with an astonishing degree of endemism packed into a land area equivalent to the British Isles. Our 2009 tour was again a great success and we found 148 (with another 4 heard) of more than 220 endemics found on the islands. Bird highlights amoung the 333 species recorded were breeding Philippine Eagles in the mountains of Mindanao, a confiding male Palawan Peacock Pheasant, 18 endemic night-birds included two wonderful endemic frogmouths, Bukidnon Woodcock, Giant Scops Owl and an amazing encounter with a hunting Palawan Scops Owl. Our three pittas included stunning views of Red-bellied and Azure-breasted pittas, 5 endemic kingfishers included such delights as Spotted Wood Kingfisher, Blue-capped Wood Kingfisher and Silvery Kingfisher, the wacky Apo Myna was a firm favourite as were Philippine Needletail, Flame-breasted Fruit Dove, Yellow-breasted fruit Dove, White-cheeked Bullfinch and Red-eared Parrotfinch. Then we had great views of 4 racquet-tail species, 5 hornbills, 6 endemic woodpeckers, 10 endemic babblers including the amazing Falcated Ground Babbler, Black-headed Tailorbird heading 7 tailorbird species and a whole host of special fantails, shamas, bulbuls, orioles, drongos, tits, whistlers, white-eyes, flowerpeckers and sunbirds.
Unfortunately rampant forest destruction continues apace in some areas of the Philippines and sadly those wishing to enjoy the incredible diversity of lowland Mindanao should make it a priority to visit in the very near future.

The Visayan extension to Bohol, Cebu and Negros continued the excellent birding and added a further 24 species including 18 endemics and 1 near endemic. Highlights on Bohol were some great night-bird views including Philippine Frogmouth and an angry everetti Philippine Scops Owl. Otherwise multiple sightings of Visayan Wattled Broadbill stole the show but Yellow-breasted Tailorbird, Black-crowned Babbler, Azure-breasted Pitta, Streaked Ground Babbler and Amethyst Brown Dove added to the great birding. Our day on Cebu was rewarded with a brief views of Cebu Flowerpecker for some, Black Shama, Cebu Bulbul, White-vented Whistler, a distinctive taxon of Mangrove Blue Flycatcher and great views of Visayan Boobook.
On Negros we found a host of specialties; White-winged Cuckooshrike, Visayan Hornbill, Visayan Brown Dove, Yellow-faced Flameback, Visayan Shama, Visayan Flowerpecker, Negros Striped Babbler and Flame-templed Babbler.

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Yellow-breasted Fruit Dove and Philippine Eagle, Mt. Kitanglad, Mindanao © Rob Hutchinson

We began the tour with a typical early morning rising and not long after dawn we had arrived in Cagayan de Oro in north Mindanao, a pleasant change from the bustling metropolis of Manila which we had left behind. After breakfast overlooking the Bohol sea and finding our first Black-headed Munia and Pied Triller we continued into the heart of the island to a small village in the shadow of the Kitanglad Mountains where we would continue on foot into these impressive forest mountains. With our luggage loaded onto horses we began our walk, taking a gentle pace while enjoying our first flood of new birds; Philippine Cuckoo Dove, Colasisi, Philippine Bulbul, Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Paddyfield Pipit and Long-tailed Shrike (of the striking nasutus taxon).
We arrived into our tented camp in good time for lunch but unfortunately the afternoon heralded heavy rain. We made the most of our time however by birding around the forest clearing of our camp finding some great birds, particularly in the mixed feeding flocks which held Sulphur-billed Nuthatch, Philippine Leaf Warbler, Rufous-headed Tailorbird, Mountain Verditer Flycatcher, Striated Grassbird, Black-and-Cinnamon Fantail, Yellow-bellied Whistler, Grey-hooded Sunbird, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, Cinnamon Ibon and Elegant Tits.
A Philippine Hawk Cuckoo was seen briefly and as dusk approached we got our first glimpses of a pair of displaying Bukidnon Woodcock although much better views were had in coming days as they periodically crossed our clearing on dawn and dusk patrols.
The next few days continued to be rather wet but as we squelched along the muddy trails we found some exciting birding. Top of many peoples hit-list when they visit the Philippines is the national bird; the mighty Philippine Eagle. We were very fortunate this year that just weeks prior to our visit a nest of this magnificent bird had been found in a forest valley above our camp and we were privileged to enjoy prolonged views of both adults keeping a close eye on the nest which contained a single half-grown – but still huge! -  Juvenile eagle. Crested Goshawk, Philippine Serpent Eagle and a single Pinsker’s Hawk Eagle adding to the raptor list.
Other endemics also performed well; Stripe-breasted Rhabdornis perched atop dead snags, stunning Yellow-breasted Fruit Dove, displaying Amethyst Brown Dove, Mindanao Hornbill, more Philippine Cuckoo Doves, Philippine Swiftlets and a group of Mindanao Racquet-tails fortuitously flew right overhead.

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Silvery Kingfisher, PICOP and Giant Scops Owl, Mt. Kitanglad         © Rob Hutchinson

There was also Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, Buff-spotted Flameback (the Greater Flameback is now considered four species in the Philippines) and mixed feeding flocks provided frequent excitement containing McGregor’s Cuckooshrike, smart Cinnamon Ibon, Philippine Mountain Warbler and Black-masked White-eye. A stunning male Blue-capped Wood Kingfisher but White-browed Shortwing proved very elusive giving little more than glimpses to most.
In the more open areas we staked out a favoured area of sunflower plants early one morning and were rewarded with great views of Red-eared Parrotfinch venturing out to feeding and giving scope views to all. Brown Tit Babbler, Tawny Grassbird, Eye-browed Thrush, Short-tailed Starling also favouring the clearings.
In the highest forests we found some true specialties including Apo Myna’s with crazy punk hairstyles and an Apo Sunbird which slowed delightfully well.
The wet weather did not allow much night-birding but after much wandering around in the dark a Giant Scops Owl did finally venture into our clearing allowing Rob H to find him in the spotlight then obligingly posed long enough for everyone to be roused from their sleep and enjoy this bulky owl. Mindanao Scops Owl was also heard but a single Eastern Grass Owl was also seen and Philippine Nightjar showed at dusk.
Our final morning on the mountain was also rainy and we finished our Kitanglad adventure wading across the river, a wet but enjoyable and very memorable visit. We then spent the day driving around to the east coast and the relative luxury of our Bislig hotel.
Bislig town lies in the heart of the huge PICOP logging concession which is renowned as the best place in the Philippines to search for lowland endemics including many endemic to Mindanao. Unfortunately nowhere is forest destruction more apparent than it is here and it was a saddening experience to witness the continued disappearance of these incredibly biodiverse forest as we enjoyed some of the Philippines most spectacular birds.
In the best remaining areas of forest we found some of our most desired birds; Blue-capped Wood Kingfisher again performed, Short-crested Monarch, and the aptly named Celestial Monarch really did give an ‘out-of-this-world’ performance as he sang away for nearly 10 minutes as we admired him in the ‘scope. In the same spot we also enjoyed an obliging Rufous Hornbill which sat and posed for what seemed like an eternity, a performance which justly earned this magnificent bird top spot in the bird-of-the-trip competition.
Three desirable species of pitta were logged; the Hooded Pittas were rather skittish but both the Red-bellied and Azure-breasted Pittas settled down to give stunning views. In small bird flocks we found endemic Blue Fantail, Rusty-crowned Babbler, Mindanao Pygmy Babbler, Rufous-fronted Tailorbird, skulking Black-headed Tailorbird, Rufous Paradise Flycatcher and Philippine Leaf Warblers.
In the more open areas Rufous-lored Kingfisher appeared on our first morning, Philippine Green Pigeon, Black-chinned Fruit Dove, Guaiabero, Strip-headed Rhabdornis, Philippine Drongo Cuckoo, brief Violet Cuckoo, Bar-bellied Cuckooshrike, Black-bibbed Cuckooshrike, Black-and-white triller, Philippine Oriole, Philippine Leafbird, Yellow-wattled Bulbul, Yellowish Bulbul, Coleto and stunning Black-faced Coucal – surely the most attractive of this cumbersome family. Flowering trees attracted Grey-throated, Purple-throated, Metallic-winged and Handsome Sunbird and smart Naked –faced Spiderhunter. Our friend the Silvery Kingfisher was still present on his favourite pond and impressed us all not only with fine looks but also his speed in catching dragonflies.
Meanwhile a patient stake-out at a forest clearing finally produced fine views of a calling Writhed Hornbill and a flyby Pink-bellied Imperial Pigeon, raucous Blue-crowned Racquet-tails and Philippine Needletails. One of the greatest rarities was something of a surprise when a Mindanao Crow – the rarest of the Slender-billed Crow complex – was found giving its distinctive calls and showing ID features including the thin bill, bare skin behind the eye and distinctive flight jizz.
Raptors were in short supply and we managed just a single Steere’s Honey Buzzard and two sightings of Pinsker’s Hawk Eagle in addition to the widespread Philippine Serpent Eagles and the ubiquitous Philippine Falconets hunting from dead snags.
Night-birding efforts were rewarded with views of a hairy faced Philippine Frogmouth, Chocolate Boobook and great looks at a perched Great Eared-Nightjar but sadly Mindanao Boobook just could not be persuaded to show.

Our afternoon at the disused airfield at Bislig produced a nice selection of wetland birds such as Cinnamon, Yellow and Black Bitterns, Wandering Whistling Duck, Philippine Duck, White-browed Crake and Plain Bush-hen. The shorter grasses there held more than 10 Blue-breasted Quail, the distinctive dubius taxon of Little Ringed Plover on the runway itself, Australasian Reed Warblers were very showy in the surrounding reeds but calling Middendorf’s Grasshopper Warbler remained virtually invisible. At dusk a distant flyby from an Eastern Grass Owl was followed by a feeding Philippine Nightjar.
All too soon it was time to return to Manila ready to embark on the next stage of our adventure, around the island of Luzon. We arrived the next morning before dawn at Candaba Marshes, disturbing a resting Eastern Grass Owl from the verge. As dawn broke the marshes and rice fields came alive with bird song and we picked out our first additions in the form of elegant Oriental Pratincoles sweeping over the fields. We spent the next few hours exploring the fields, marshy ponds and scrub, all of them a hive of activity. Philippine Swamphen, Common Moorhen, Yellow Bittern, White-browed Crake, Black-winged Stilt, Whiskered Tern and Pheasant-tailed Jacana were all abundant and we watch in awe the antics and activity form a huge colony of Purple Herons and Black-crowned Night Heron. Ducks were present in good numbers including thousands of stunning Garganey and more than 100 Philippine Duck. Two quartering Eastern Marsh Harrier gave nice views.
The surrounding scrub held further surprises; amoung the Red collared Doves was a single Philippine Collared Dove, a recent split from the Island Collared Dove of Indonesia. Even more impressive was the Siberian Rubythroat which gave a stunning performance as it hopped along the path towards us with red throat gleaming.
The rest of the day took up north and then west into the pleasantly cool climes of Banaue in the Central Cordillera Mountains. The next morning began bright which was quite a relief after the rain of the previous evening and we set about finding the endemics of these mossy forests. First to appear just after dawn was Mountain Shrike, it showed only briefly so we were delighted when Barbara picked out a much more obliging bird a while later. The first of several Luzon Bush Warblers were seen and we had a typically frustrating (invisible!) encounter with a calling Long-tailed Ground Warbler. Our first Chestnut-faced Babblers appeared, as did Mountain Tailorbird, subtle Green-backed Whistlers, Blue-headed Fantails and wintering Olive-backed Pipits. A group of White-cheeked Bullfinch were undoubtedly one of the days highlights, feeding at super close range and allowing Jonty some excellent photo shots.
Unfortunately the mountain road was blocked by landslides after the rains and we spent longer than anticipated on the higher road not reaching Bay-yo until after lunch. Bay-yo is a picturesque village surrounded by steep rice terraces for which the area is famed and we stopped for a photo shot before heading down the steep path below the village to the rushing river valley below. Unfortunately the rain started just after we arrived and soon became torrential and by the time the pair of Luzon Water Redstarts finally appeared we were soaked to the skin and the river had become a brown ranging torrent. The Luzon Water Restarts were unconcerned however putting on a great performance and this was certainly one of the more memorable comedy birding moments of the trip!

The mist, rain and wind at the pass the next day scuppered our owling ambitions but after dawn the birds did perform. First was the elusive Long-tailed Ground Warbler which finally obliged by climbing up into a roadside bush for unobstructed, if misty, views.
Feeding flocks were again profitable and Jonty’s sharp eyes picked out a distinctive female Flame-crowned Flowerpecker and Citrine Canary Flycatcher amoung the standard species.
Moving along the road we found conditions more sheltered and here we could hear our target Flame-breasted Fruit Dove calling from the slope below. We tried hard to tease it up the slope and in to view but without success so we opted for plan B, heading further along the road to look back distantly at the slopes. With the ‘scopes in action it wasn’t long before Rob L’s scanning prowess found a stunning Flame-breasted Fruit Dove which gave lovely views. With this big target secured we headed down to the lower slopes in search of some others. A pair of Scale-feathered Malkoha were the next treat and Himalayan Buzzard was soon seen in the pine forests, the taxon here being included in this species following the recent split amoung of Common Buzzard. This is also prime habitat for Benguet Bush Warbler, a relatively recent discovery in these mountains and relatively common here and it wasn’t long before the grassy hillsides were ringing with their song. They are extremely elusive however and we spent a couple of hours before all finally getting satisfactory views at times just meters but virtually invisible!
In the afternoon we returned to Banaue where we spent some very profitable time birding in the hotel grounds adding a few species which can be tricky to find elsewhere; flocks of Yellowish White-eye, Lemon-throated Leaf Warbler, a smart Bicolored Flowerpecker and a single Brown-headed Thrush was noted.
The next day we headed back south, this time to Subic Bay, a former US Naval Base on the west side of Manila Bay. We arrived in good time for lunch allowing an afternoon of exploration within the base which still harbours good areas of forest and where birds abound. Our first afternoon here was incredibly productive and we found most of our target birds. Our first roadside stops found a noisy flock of Rufous Coucals, a circling Luzon Hawk Eagle and nice perched views of Blue-naped Parrot.
Along a forest trail we found a typically elusive Green-backed Tailorbird in the bamboo scrub, much more obliging Blackish Cuckooshrikes and Philippine Fairy Bluebird in the canopy, and a ‘real’ Red Junglefowl. A major surprise while scanning a flock of wintering Ashy Minivets was a pair of the pale-faced leucogenis form of Ashy Drongo, a rare vagrant to the Philippines with less than 10 records.

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White-cheeked Bullfinch, and Flame-breasted Fruit Dove, Luzon     © Rob Hutchinson

In the late afternoon as the temperature dropped we birded the disused roads around the base and it was here that we had great views of a vocal pair of White-fronted Tits posing on the treetops then raucous Green Racquet-tails were finally found perched. Northern Sooty Woodpeckers and Luzon Flameback also gave excellent looks.
Given the success of the previous afternoon we were left with just a couple of big targets the next morning and we soon had success with an obliging White-lored Oriole whistling his fluty song from the treetops. The forest was again lively and we had Luzon Balicassiao, more Green Racquet-tails plus Luzon Hornbills and later we found our hoped-for Purple Needletails giving great high-speed flybys overhead, with Chinese Goshawk a bonus.
After lunch we headed east again tackling the crazy traffic of Manila fortuitously arriving at our Los Banos base in time for some late afternoon birding. We headed straight for the nearby university campus at the base of Mount Makiling and began on the river there where after some searching a male Indigo-banded Kingfisher appeared right on cue fishing from the boulders in the river. We then headed to the forest where we waited at dusk for our ‘old friend’ the Philippine Scops Owl who also behaved impeccably, staring down at us with piercing orange eyes at dusk.
The next morning also began in the dark as we scoured the forest edge for Philippine Boobook before finally watching an obliging pair yapping above us just before dawn. As we proceed up the mountain we came to an abrupt halt as an Ashy Thrush appeared in the jeep headlights and we were pleased that he stuck around for more than 10 minutes feeding on the road and allowing stunning ‘scope views of this elusive zoothera. The rest of the morning was very birdy with nice looks at a skulking White-browed Shama, Flaming Sunbird, a brief Grey-backed Tailorbird, and a stunning pair of Philippine Trogons were particularly appreciated after our obscured looks on Mindanao, a nice Spotted Wood Kingfisher (spotted by our driver!) and Red-crested Malkohas. Luzon Bleeding-hearts were quite vocal but most stayed just out of views although those who ascended an impossibly steep and slippery slope were rewarded with views.
We spent the afternoon firstly getting nice views of Lowland White-eyes on the university campus then birding in nearby grasslands and careful scanning of the grassy track was rewarded with multiple sightings of both Barred and Spotted Buttonquail together with obliging Plain Bush-hen.
The next morning we targeted our missing birds and after some work found a calling Philippine Hawk Cuckoo which gave us quite a run around before finally settling to sing excitedly in the scope and Grey-backed Tailorbird likewise eventually gave great views. We also had improved views of Red-crested Malkoha, Luzon Hornbills and some more Scale-feathered Malkohas.
We spent the afternoon staking out an impressive fruiting tree at the forest edge which was full of Coppersmith Barbet and Stripe-headed Rhabdornis, Bar-bellied Cuckooshrike and Black-and-white Triller. Buzzing Flowerpecker and a pair of Bicolored Flowerpeckers were seen but Striped Flowerpecker was only seen in flight.

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Palawan Peacock Pheasant, St. Paul’s, Palawan        ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

The next morning was relatively sedate, taking our only ‘daylight’ breakfast of the tour before flying to Puerto Princessa on the island of Palawan. Our first destination was nearby Garcelliano Beach where despite the high tide we still located a few Chinese Egrets and the mangroves held a few roosting shorebirds; Lesser and Greater Sandplovers, Red-necked Stint and Grey-tailed Tattler being notable.

After lunch we began towards St. Paul’s National park making our first stop at an area of mangroves where Copper-throated Sunbirds soon performed. The rest of the afternoon was spent walking several productive stretches of roadside forest and new birds appeared thick and fast. White-vented Shama, Spot-throated Flameback (split from Greater), Yellow-throated Leafbird, Sulphur-bellied Bulbul, Palawan Crow, Palawan Drongo and superb Palawan Tits added to the endemic tally but the highlight was close views of comical Palawan Hornbills. Palawan has a very different avifauna to the rest of the Philippines and thus many south-east Asian species were new to us and included Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Asian Drongo Cuckoo, Black-headed Bulbul, Grey-cheeked Bulbul, Dark-throated Oriole and nice views of Violet Cuckoo.
At dusk we waited for the night-birds to appear and this took no time at all. First was a Palawan Frogmouth, with its amazing hairy ears, then we began to hear the bizarre crackling call of a Palawan Scops Owl from nearby. We waited patiently until he passed close overhead and then soon located him perched very close by, surprising us all when the spotlight caught him in the act of eating a large green lizard! Our final night-bird was more elusive, a Brown Boobook which called continually but took some time before we found him in the light for nice views.

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Palawan Frogmouth and Palawan Tit, Palawan        © Rob Hutchinson

The next morning was one of the highlights of the tour as we entered the park by boat along the spectacular coastline where we were able to feast our eyes on the spectacular male Palawan Peacock Pheasant which boldly strutted around our feet alongside Tabon Scrubfowl and several huge Monitor Lizards. Other birds were quiet in the overcast conditions but we added Blue Paradise Flycatcher, Rufous-backed Kingfisher and a Red-headed Flameback (yet another split, this time from Common Flameback). Nearby a pair of Falcated Ground Babblers behaved perfectly by circling around us before settling in one spot to call and allow all to enjoy great views. We made our way back along a wonderful white sand beach and found a group of three Malaysian Plovers roosting on the offshore rocks as Brown-backed Needletail zoomed overhead.
In the afternoon we again birded along the road, finally finding a pair of elusive Palawan Blue Flycatchers, another Palawan Hornbill, Lovely Sunbird, Palawan Flowerpecker, Common Hill Myna and at dusk Large-tailed Nightjars hawking in the spotlight.
We set off into the nearby forests on foot the next day and soon scored two big targets. Ashy-headed Babbler had proved surprisingly difficult thus far so we were pleased to find a responsive pair which gave everyone good views then a short while later a group of Blue-headed Racquet-tails perched in an open tree gave great scope views during which time a Thick-billed Pigeon nest was found overhead.
In the late afternoon we took a boat out into Honda Bay, and walked around one of the larger offshore islands finding several interesting shorebirds plus a mighty Great-billed Heron feeding on the foreshore. In the few trees on the island Rob H was fortunate to see two Grey Imperial Pigeons in flight but unfortunately the windy conditions kept them quiet and by the time they began to call towards dusk it was too late to locate them. Two Lesser Frigatebirds drifting overhead were a surprise write-in for the tour.
At dusk we waited for the islands other specialty; the small-island specialist Mantanani Scops Owl, but in the windy conditions they also called only at dusk before becoming silent. We persisted without any more response but then just as things were looking lost a dark shape glided out of a nearby coconut tree and into the forest. We rushed forth and amazingly there was the owl, it flew almost straight away, right over our heads, but we followed it in hot pursuit until it landed on the other side of the clearing where we had excellent and prolonged views.
Our next destination was the Balsahan trail within the Iwahig penal colony where the scrubby secondary forest is perfectly suited to two of our remaining targets. Birds were again quiet in the overcast conditions but we found our birds; firstly a pair of obliging Palawan Flycatchers took all by surprise with their striking rufous throat and chestnut tail which is so poorly illustrated in the field guide. Melodious Babbler led us a merry dance but we finally found a singing bird which came in close but typically stayed in thick cover leading to some comical moments as we crawled on hands and knees to get good views. Perhaps the greatest highlight of the morning was a group of Great Slaty Woodpeckers which treated us to a great display as these huge woodpeckers danced around the treetops with wings spread uttering their excited calls.

The nearby rice fields and fish ponds held some nice water-birds where Red-necked Stint, Long-toed Stint, Marsh Sandpiper were particularly appreciated.
We drove south and in the afternoon we again took to the sea to visit nearby Rasa Island, one of the strongholds of the Philippine Cockatoo. The sea was too rough to visit their roosting area but on the leeward side of the island we enjoyed views of several cockatoos including a breeding pair on the very closest part of the island. Great-billed Heron, Chinese Egret and Brown-backed Needletails made a perfect finish to our last full day of the tour. The next morning as we drove to the airport Melodious Babblers were singing by the roadside so loudly that they could be heard within the vehicle and we made a rapid stop to enjoy good views of this subtle endemic. Another stop at the fishponds again found a good selection of water-birds with perched Pink-necked Green Pigeons and Watercock in flight notable additions to the trip list.

We finished the tour with a grand total of 333 species recording, including 6 which were only heard. Most importantly we saw 148 species endemic to the Philippines and another 5 ‘near-endemics’ which are shared with just a few other small islands.

Philippines – Visayan extension

28th February – 7th March 2009

Participants: Duncan Himes, Rob Leighton, Brian Sykes, Graeme Wright

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Azure-breasted Pitta, Bohol                               ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

Arriving back into Manila from Palawan at the end of the main tour some of the intrepid party continued the same day to the island of Bohol. The next morning we began night-birding and hit success with a hairy Philippine Frogmouth perching right overhead at dawn. Just minutes later Rob H’s attention was drawn to suspiciously unknown calls and sure enough it proved to be something special as a small group of Visayan Wattled Broadbills were spotted buzzing around the canopy and in the poor light we were able to get nice views in the spotlight which was still at hand from our night-birding session! Next bird was amazingly another of our major targets, a smart Yellow-breasted Tailorbird creeping in the under-story but giving nice views as he sat up and sang, shortly followed by a singing Rufous-tailed Jungle Flycatcher, Black-faced Coucals and obliging Streaked Ground Babbler.
With many of our major targets secured in the first hour of birding we hit the trails and found activity good; a good feeding flock held our first Black-crowned Babbler along with Brown Tit Babbler, Philippine Leaf Warbler, Blue Fantail and Yellow-wattled Bulbul. Later in the morning we added calling Rufous-lored Kingfishers, Philippine Fairy Bluebird, Amethyst Brown Dove and Buff-spotted Flameback.
The afternoon in the forest was quieter but we did get brief views of Mindanao Hornbills, the taxon here sometimes being split as ‘Samar’ Hornbill, and a stunning Azure-breasted Pitta. In the late afternoon we located some bizarre Philippine Colugos as they emerged for their night of feeding and had some nice views as they clambered up the huge tree trunks before launching and gliding through the forest. At dusk the Philippine Boobooks were not well behaved but a while later fantastic views of Philippine Scops Owl were had (often split here as Everett’s Scops Owl) and amazingly a Rufous-lored Kingfisher still roosting on the same branch as when we first found him more than four years ago!
The next morning we finally got to grips with the Philippine Boobooks followed by more views of the same Visayan Wattled Broadbill group which gave even better views, down at eye level in the closest trees! The forest was again lively and we enjoyed even better views of Rufous-tailed Jungle Flycatcher, a pair of Azure-breasted Pitta and even another group of broadbills!

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Philippine Colugo and Visayan Wattled Broadbill, Bohol                     ©Rob Hutchinson

Returning to our hotel at lunchtime we were impressed by the incredible scenery – surrounded by the famous ‘Chocolate Hills’ which we had missed thus far with our early morning starts! In the afternoon we return to the port and took a fast ferry across to the neighbouring island of Cebu.
Cebu is one of the most deforested islands in the whole of the Philippines, estimated to hold as little as 0.5% of its original forest cover. Fortunately the fragments that remain still hold many of the endemics including the Cebu Flowerpecker, rediscovered as recently as 1992. Our day at Tabunan, the forest where the flowerpecker was originally refound, was very profitable. In the forest here we found the island endemic Black Shama and Cebu (Streak-breasted) Bulbul put in a few sightings. White-bellied Balicassiao, White-vented Whistler, Magnificent Sunbird, Coppersmith Barbet (of the red faced cebuensis race), Red-bellied Pitta and the philippensis subspecies of Mangrove Blue Flycatcher – a very likely future split – all added interest. The greatest prize here of course is the Cebu Flowerpecker and some of those who persisted on top of our elevated limestone watch point were rewarded with brief views of a male which visited the nearby trees. We waited until dusk in search of the Visayan Boobook which had eluded us at dawn and were glad when the bird flew straight in at dusk.
The next day we were fortunate to be able to take the inaugural flight from Cebu to southern Negros, much faster and more comfortable than the ferry! This also allowed us to head straight off birding and we went straight for the picturesque Balinsasayao ‘Twin’ Lakes in the nearby mountains. The water levels in the lakes had risen more than 15 meters since my last visit so some trails were underwater but we were able to take a boat across the lake to a viewpoint on the far side and explore the trails from there. New birds appeared straight away beginning with White-winged Cuckoo Shrike and continuing with other nice species such as Philippine Needletail, Pinsker’s Hawk Eagle, Blue-crowned Racquet-tail, Lemon-throated Leaf Warbler, Philippine Oriole, White-vented Whistler and ‘Visayan” Blue-headed Fantail. The best however was a responsive Visayan Brown Dove – a recent split from Amethyst Brown Dove and a difficult bird to find. Returning to the viewpoint in the late afternoon we had great views of Visayan Hornbill.
The next morning was a major expedition in search of the rare Negros Striped Babbler. Its montane home is unfortunately not easy to reach and our site required a long and bumpy drive then a strenuous trudge up the denuded hills before arriving into its montane forest habitat. Once we reached the forest we entered a world of beautiful mossy trees and here after some patient waiting we were privileged to watch at least two Negros Striped Babbler, undoubtedly a trip highlight. Our walk down did produce Striped Flowerpecker, Blue-crowned Racquet-tail and some other nice birds before we made the long drive north to Bacolod city in the north of the island. The next morning our owling was frustrating with only a flight view of our desired Negros Scops Owl although a Spotted Wood Kingfisher watched in the spotlight almost qualified as a night-bird! We were more successful with skulking Visayan Shama and some good bird activity on the forest edge include White-bellied Balicassiao and a stunning pair of Yellow-faced Flameback, completing a full set of this recently split complex. As we reached the best forest we found some excellent bird flocks and it was here that we enjoyed Flame-templed Babbler – perhaps the most stunning of this often subtle family.
Both Philippine Serpent Eagle and Crested Goshawk were seen perched, a Blue-crowned Racquet-tail gave great close views, and Green-backed Tailorbirds eventually gave excellent views.
The afternoon around Mambucal resort at the base of the mountain was a nice relaxing end to the tour and last target finally put on a good show with the black chest spot which separates the species from Red-keeled, on clear display.
The Visayan Extension recorded a total of 143 species including 70 Philippine endemics. Of these 24 species were trip exclusives, not being recorded on the main tour and included the addition of 18 endemics and one near-endemic.

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Rufous-lored Kingfisher, Bohol                        ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

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