Birdtour Asia Philippines Report 2010

The Philippines

24th January - 5th February 2010

Leader: Rob Hutchinson

Participants: John Eyre, Keith Fisher, Ian Reid,
Mike Shaw, Graeme Wright and Steve Young

Palawan Peacock Pheasant, St Pauls, Palawan ©Rob Hutchinson / Birdtour Asia

The Philippines are packed with an astonishing degree of endemism and our two-week tours give an amazing selection within such a short time, in this case 124 endemics seen with another 5 heard among the 281 species recorded. Most importantly we achieved our primary goals of finding the endemic rhabdornis family and the magnificent Philippine Eagle in the mountains of Mindanao. There was much more besides and favourites included Palawan Peacock Pheasant, Bukidnon Woodcock, awesome views of both endemic frogmouths, Chocolate Boobook, three species of pitta, Spotted Wood Kingfisher, Blue-capped Wood Kingfisher, Indigo-banded Kingfisher, Silvery Kingfisher, Apo Myna, Red-eared Parrotfinch, White-cheeked Bullfinch, Philippine Needletail, three species of Racquet-tail, Rufous and Writhed among five endemic hornbills, while Ashy Thrush and Giant Scops Owl were exciting enough to beat even the eagle in the bird-of-the-tour vote.
Sadly we also witnessed the final death of the lowland forests at PICOP and while many of the birds are still clinging on there, anyone wishing to see them should visit at the soonest opportunity, we are actively seeking alternative sites but the lowland forests of Mindanao are among the most threatened habitats in the world.

We began the tour with a morning flight to north Mindanao and a pleasant lunch by the sea in Cagayan de Oro before heading inland to Bukidnon province. In the small village of Damitan our luggage was loaded onto horses as we set out on foot for our camp on Mount Kitanglad. There was plenty of activity with Brown and Long-tailed Shrikes, Striated Grassbird, Pied Triller, Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Pied Bushchat, Paddyfield Pipit, Eye-browed Thrushes, Buff-banded Rail and our first endemics in the form of Colasisi and Philippine Bulbul before reaching the camp where our first Cinnamon Ibon were seen. More excitement was to come as a roding Bukidnon Woodcocks gave nice views right over the camp at dusk. Then just as almost everyone was enjoying a well earned sleep a Giant Scops Owl was finally located sitting close to the lodge causing panic and excitement as everyone struggled into clothes and rushed to enjoy this great bird in various states of undress!

Philippine Frogmouth and Giant Scops Owl, Mount Kitanglad, Mindanao © Rob Hutchinson

The next morning the woodcocks again joined us at breakfast before we set off up the mountain soon picking up new birds such as Buff-spotted Flameback (a Greater Flameback split), Elegant Tit, Sulphur-billed Nuthatch, Black-and-cinnamon Fantail, Grey-hooded Sunbird, Olive-capped and Fire-breasted Flowerpeckers, Yellow-bellied Whistler, Tawny Grassbird, Philippine Coucal, our first of several flyover Mindanao Racquet-tails for the day and the often unpredictable White-cheeked Bullfinch. Our primary aim of the day however was to find the national bird of the Philippines – the Philippine Eagle – always one of the major targets of visiting birders, and this group was no exception! Settling at a well positioned viewpoint with views over the extensive forest mountains we set about diligently scanning. Oriental Honey Buzzard of the distinctive philippensis race, Crested Goshawk and Philippine Serpent Eagle were the first to appear, then tantalising glimpses of a huge raptor which is undoubtedly our target but too distant and brief to be sure. Scanning continues until a new white shape appears on the hillside opposite and scopes are swung into action to confirm it as a magnificent Philippine Eagle! Over the next few hours it is in view almost continually as it moved between various perches.
During our search we also find very distant Stripe-breasted Rhabdornis, Philippine Swiftlets overhead, several wacky Apo Mynas and Mugimaki Flycatcher before we head slowly back to camp. There is still plenty of birding excitement with everyone having satisfactory views of some skulking Red-eared Parrotfinches, Short-tailed Starlings and yet more White-cheeked Bullfinch, although Bagobo Babbler was typically only heard.
At dusk we headed for a different clearing where a responsive Philippine Nightjar came close overhead and we had very prolonged views of two Bukidnon Woodcocks flying in tandem as they passed by several times. Before dinner a Philippine Frogmouth calling just outside the lodge had us scurrying out again and we soon had him posing in the spotlight.
The next morning we again left early, greeted by a flyover White-throated Pigeon as soon as we left the camp. This time we were heading for the higher levels of the mountain in search of our remaining targets. Excitement came sooner than expected though when a Blue-capped Wood Kingfisher performed on cue, initially giving rather obscured views through the tiniest vegetation gaps but soon posing in the open to the delight of all, a very fortuitous sighting as we later discovered that the most regular sites in the lowlands were inaccessible.

Also on the walk up were two separate sightings of Philippine Hawk Cuckoo and exciting feeding flocks which hosted dapper McGregor’s Cuckooshrikes and numerous Cinnamon Ibon. Rufous-headed Tailorbird performed and finally Black-masked White-eye for everyone. Almost as soon as we reached the spot, a female Apo Sunbird appeared in a flowering tree and a while later the rather more attractive male was also spotted.
We spent some time trying to tease out a skulking Long-tailed Ground Warbler with moderate success and likewise a White-browed Shortwing gave some brief views.
Mindanao Hornbill was added on the way back to the camp, more Short-tailed Starlings and much closer and prolonged views of Stripe-breasted Rhabdornis were greatly appreciated especially by those targeting bird families.
The next morning dawned rainy but we did still added an immature Yellow-breasted Fruit Dove and Philippine Leaf Warbler around the camp with White-eared Brown Dove and Coppersmith Barbet added during our walk back to civilisation before the long drive around the top end of the island and south to the town of Bislig on the east coast for a four night stay.
Bislig is the home town of the famous PICOP logging concession, the largest of its kind in the Philippines and for many years THE place to find the very special birds of the Mindanao lowlands. Unfortunately with the completion of the PICOP tenure, illegal logging and mass immigration into the area is now rampant and the forest all but gone. Nevertheless we found most of the birds still around but anyone wanting to see the birds needs to go NOW while the birds are still hanging on.

Apo Myna and Blue-capped Wood Kingfisher, Mount Kitanglad, Mindanao © Rob Hutchinson

Our first morning began before dawn with a frustrating encounter with a Mindanao Boobook which inexplicably veered away from its intended perch at the last second, leaving us to dream of what might have been. As daylight arrived new birds appeared regularly; firstly a pair of Philippine Trogon, then Buzzing and Pygmy Flowerpeckers, Rusty-crowned Babbler, Mindanao Paradise Flycatcher, Philippine Leafbird, Philippine Green Pigeon, Yellow-breasted Fruit Dove, a very obliging Rufous-lored Kingfisher and a surprise pair of Blue-crowned Racquet-tail – the only encounter of the tour. Moving on to an area of scrappy remnant forest we were rapidly losing hope of laying eyes on an Azure-breasted Pitta calling stubbornly in the impenetrable undergrowth when a second bird nearby came to our rescue with superb views. Just as exciting was a very active feeding flock in the area with more Rusty-crowned Babblers accompanied by Mindanao Pygmy Babblers, and our first Mindanao Drongo, Blue Fantail, Philippine Orioles, Black-chinned Fruit Dove and Black-faced Coucals. Overhead our first Philippine Needletails with their superbly ergonomic wings cause much excitement before we head to a nearby clearing for lunch. Our first Stripe-headed Rhabdornis and showy Rufous-fronted Tailorbirds are found over lunch and when the booming calls of Pink-bellied Imperial Pigeon are heard we head off up the road to secure views of these attractive pigeon which have become something of a rarity in recent years. A Steere’s Honey Buzzard perched nearby also allowed excellent studies.
The afternoon walk through another forest patch brought another exciting feeding flock with Rusty-crowned Babbler and Blue Fantail again core species but new additions are Naked-faced Spiderhunter, a brief Black-and-white Triller, Scarlet Minivets, and a frustratingly elusive Short-crested Monarch. Reaching another strategic clearing, later afternoon produced an procession of Writhed Hornbills totalling at least 25 birds, several Philippine Falconet and our first good looks at Coleto, Philippine Drongo Cuckoo and the only Philippine Fairy Bluebird and Violet Cuckoo.

Philippine Fairy Bluebird and Silvery Kingfisher, PICOP, Mindanao © Rob Hutchinson

Steere’s Pitta and Rufous-lored Kingfisher, PICOP, Mindanao © Steve Young

Our second day covered the same areas but new birds continued to appear; we began in style with a family of Rufous Hornbills, another stunning Azure-breasted Pitta and the Short-crested Monarch of the previous day finally performed beautifully. Black-headed Tailorbirds were teased from the undergrowth at last, Olive-backed Flowerpecker, Philippine Cuckoo Dove and Yellowish Bulbul were also new and overhead we had further views of Steere’s Honey Buzzard, Philippine Serpent Eagle and Philippine Hawk Eagle.
In the afternoon we headed for sites closer to town, firstly a rather grotty pool produced a fantastic Silvery Kingfisher. Continuing on to the disused airfield on the outskirts of Bislig we wasted no time in getting views of several Blue-breasted Quail, Pintail and Swinhoe’s Snipe and a brief Watercock.
By using the jeepney roof as a mobile hide we were able to find White-browed Crakes on the nearby marsh, Cinnamon, Yellow and Black Bitterns in flight, Philippine Duck, Wandering Whistling Duck and as dusk approached a hunting Eastern Grass Owl.
Next morning we made the long drive out to a newly discovered forest patch and the day started well with a Little Slaty Flycatcher by the roadside at dawn but not long afterwards the rain set in for the day leaving us struggling to fit in birding sprees during just brief respites it the rain. Highlights of the day being Pinsker’s Hawk Eagle, Philippine Trogon, Yellowish Bulbul, several Olive-backed Flowerpeckers, Writhed and Rufous Hornbills and a Red-bellied Pitta for some.
We had time for a few hours birding the next morning and made up for our night-birding misfortune by calling in a Chocolate Boobook for superb views. Barred Rail crossed the road in front of the vehicle and Buff-spotted Flamebacks and Scarlet Minivet gave good views.
It was then time to head back to Butuan and our flight back to bustling Manila. Fortunately the flight was on time and traffic light on the way to Mount Makiling so we arrived in time for some initial birding. The forest edge still had activity and we were delighted with the addition of Luzon Hornbill, Luzon Balicassiao, Bar-bellied Cuckooshrike and Scale-feathered Malkoha.

Spotted Wood Kingfisher and Indigo-banded Kingfisher, Luzon © Steve Young and Rob Hutchinson

We were out predawn again the next morning, eventually finding a pair of Philippine Boobooks barking out their duet at dawn. As light gathered Philippine Trogon appeared, the striking endemic White-browed Shama, Philippine Pygmy Woodpeckers, Stripe-headed Rhabdornis, Lemon-throated Leaf Warbler, Flaming Sunbird, then Rusty-breasted Cuckoo was welcome after hearing them commonly through the tour. A small side trail gave more views of Scale-feathered Malkoha then back on the main track Ashy Minivets, Red-crested Malkohas and great views of the often elusive Grey-back Tailorbird. Spotted Wood Kingfishers had been noticeably absent and completely silent with everyone clearing becoming nervous about this star bird. Persistence paid off when a pair finally responded from a deeply wooded gully and we waited patiently until Steve brilliantly spotted the male kingfisher perched quietly and we all enjoyed great scope views.
After lunch we headed for a river on the nearby campus where two Indigo-banded Kingfishers was very accommodating (spotted even before the bus came to a stop!) and searching of nearby suitable trees found the endemic Lowland White-eye. Moving on to nearby grassland we scanned careful for our elusive targets to appear; Barred Buttonquail was the first to raise pulses, then the bulkier form of Spotted Buttonquail appeared for great scope studies. Activity in nearby trees during our wait included Striped Flowerpecker, Arctic Warbler and Scale-feathered Malkoha. With these targets under the belt we headed for a nearby area of rice fields and marsh where both Cinnamon and Yellow Bittern performed, White-browed Crake and Buff-banded Rails ventured into the open and a Plain Bush hen climbed into some scrubby vegetation.

The next morning we had a relatively small list of remaining targets but they included one very special bird. We were in place before dawn at a spot where we have recorded Ashy Thrush several times in the past and as light hit the road there was a beautiful marked Ashy Thrush feeding in the half-light! It soon flew off and we thought that was all we would get, but amazingly it soon returned and for the next hour gave increasingly good views in continually improving light, a brilliant performance that fully deserved its accolade as ‘bird-of-the-trip’. Luzon Flameback (a recent split from the Greater Flameback complex), another Scale-feathered Malkoha, Sulphur-billed Nuthatch, Philippine Pygmy Woodpeckers and finally dapper Black-and-white Trillers completed our time here.

We returned to Manila and after lunch took a flight out to Puerto Princessa arriving at Garcelliano beach with perfect timing as the dropping tide allowed great studies of Chinese and Pacific Reef Egrets and a wide variety of mouth-watering eastern Palaearctic waders; Lesser Sand Plover, Greater Sand Plover, Pacific Golden Plover, Red-necked Stint and Grey-tailed Tattler. An immense Stork-billed Kingfisher was fishing along the beach while in the nearby scrub White-vented Shama, Common Iora, Pied Fantail and Rufous-tailed Tailorbird were found. As we drove to our hotel a Spotted Wood Owl appeared on roadside wires but prematurely headed back to a well wooded garden and disappeared.
The next morning the Palawan Scops Owls along the Balsahan trail were strangely silent but our predawn endeavours were more than rewarded by the close views of a Palawan Frogmouth, surely one of the most bizarre of this strange looking family with it’s amazing hairy features making it look like something from outer space! The day dawned disappointingly rainy but the birds still played, Palawan Flycatcher gave itself up relatively easily and all were pleased to find a much smarter creature than the one depicted in the field guide, whereas Melodious Babbler was more difficult to see and just as non-descript as expected! Palawan Tit, Yellow-throated Leafbird, Palawan Blue Flycatcher, Asian Drongo Cuckoo, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Olive-winged Bulbul and Chestnut-breasted Malkoha were also new, and an Ashy-headed Babbler shot in at too-close-too-focus range, although the best looking bird of the morning was a colourful Hooded Pitta.
Nearby rice field held a nice selection of waders including many Long-toed Stints, Marsh Sandpiper, Greenshank and Black-winged Stilts.
In the afternoon we headed out towards St Pauls National Park stopping along the quiet roadside for some more exciting birding. Rufous-bellied Eagle caused a rapid stop en route then Red-headed Flameback and a mighty pair of Great Slaty Woodpeckers appeared simultaneously and just a short while later two groups of Palawan Hornbills appeared and posed in the treetops.
Further roadside stops are made firstly for a frisky pair of Oriental Hobby atop a limestone crag then a pair of Palawan Flowerpeckers, Lovely Sunbirds, a group of Black-headed Bulbuls, Sulphur-bellied Bulbul and Dark-throated Oriole.
After dark we tried hard for Palawan Scops Owl but never got close and eventually had to admit defeat, although fine views of yet another Palawan Frogmouth was appreciated.
At dawn the next morning we took a boat trip out along the spectacular rocky coastline of the national park to the underground river for which the park is most famous. The ranger station here is famous among birders for another reason for this is the place to enjoy one of the Philippines most spectacular endemics. Not long after leaving the boats the regular Palawan Peacock Pheasant was there to greet us, strutting his stuff for all to admire. Although this individual is now rather habituated it is a fantastic opportunity of see this beautiful bird and is yet another reason to visit the Philippines soon for when this aging individual disappears it will once again became an EXTREMELY difficult bird to see.
Other birds here were Tabon Scrubfowls scratching around in the leaf litter, Ashy-headed Babbler, White-vented Shama before we were back in the boats to stop at the Central Park Station. The open areas around this station gave Yellow-throated Leafbird, Sulphur-bellied and Grey-cheeked Bulbuls, Pin-striped Tit Babbler and our first good views of Blue-naped Parrots.

We had to navigate some tricky trails before we could finally heard Falcated Ground babblers calling from far below us and we hastened to the spot. The birds responded quickly to playback and came close but frustrated us by sticking mainly to thick cover and we managed little more than glimpses of these elusive birds before they retreated again.
After lunch back at the hotel, Watercock and Cinnamon Bittern were flushed from nearby marshes then as the temperature became bearable we headed for the nearby hills. As bird activity increased we found Fiery Minivets, posing Dollarbirds, Blue-eared Kingfisher, Spot-throated Flameback and finally a pair of Blue-headed Racquet-tails perched in open branches nearby.
The next morning we had another bash at the Palawan Scops Owls which remained out of sight but a Red-bellied Pitta feeding on the track at dawn was much happier in the spotlight. Back in the park didn’t produce any more sighting of the Falcated Ground Babblers but we did finally add Blue Paradise Flycatcher and Pink-necked Green Pigeons to our tally.
Before lunch a stomp around the marshes found several Greater Painted Snipe together with Yellow and Cinnamon Bittern and White-bellied Munia.
We stopped on at an area of mangroves on the way back to Puerto Princessa where several Copper-throated Sunbirds showed among the commoner Purple-throated Sunbirds, while Fiery Minivet and Striped Flowerpecker showed briefly again.
Our last stop before heading to the airport was the beach again and at high tide we had close views of roosting Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers, Kentish Plover and Red-necked Stint.
With an extra morning before his flights home I headed early the next morning with Ian Reid to Subic Bay hoping to pick up some of the areas special endemics. Arriving just after dawn, the conditions were a little breezy and the birds quiet although a Luzon Hawk Eagle flying in to perch nearby provided a distraction. We shouldn’t have worried however because it seems the birds were just a little late waking! Green Racquet-tail appeared first, their raucous screeching drawing attention as they flew quickly through the forest. Following their calls we attempted to relocated them and while doing so found an obliging pair of Northern Sooty Woodpeckers and then a pair of White-fronted Tits which spent some time singing from the highest snags. Entering the forest trails Philippine Fairy Bluebirds were calling and we almost immediately stumbled on a roving flock of Rufous Coucals. It wasn’t long before the briefest of calls allowed us to home in on a White-lored Oriole and in the same flock at least two Blackish Cuckooshrikes.

Our final target was calling from a nearby patch of Bamboo so we crept instead and the often elusive Philippine Tailorbird gave himself with relative ease for prolonged views. Amazingly we had found all targets within a single morning and with additional views of the likes of Purple Needletail, Coleto and the dark resident race of Peregrine, the extension was voted a big success as we headed back to Manila for a well-earned rest!

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