Leader; Rob Hutchinson

Participant: Nigel Johnson-Stewart

Rhinoceros Hornbill, Kinabatangan River © Rob Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia

Following straight on from our very successful scheduled tour to Peninsular Malaysia [trip report], we organized an equally successful custom tour to the east Malaysian state of Sabah in north Borneo.
The Borneo extension recorded a total of 264 species with at least 30 endemics based on current taxonomy. Highlights including the spectacular ‘Whitehead’s Trio’ (Spiderhunter, Broadbill and Trogon) in the mountains; Storm’s Stork, White-fronted Falconet, dazzling views of Blue-headed and Black-crowned Pitta were among the lowland endemics and last but not least the enigmatic Bornean Ground-Cuckoo which finally put in an appearance after several days of searching.
As always here we had several exciting mammal sightings including Leopard Cat, Colugo (Flying Lemur), fantastic encounters with Bornean Pygmy Elephants, Proboscis Monkey and of course Orang-utan.

We began our Bornean adventure close to the capital of Sabah, Kota Kinabalu with a late afternoon visit to the nearby coastal Lagoons at Likas Bay. As the temperature cooled the birds appeared with the Striated Grassbirds singing in full view from the reedbed a particular attraction. Water birds also appeared including several Common Moorhen, a brief White-browed Crake and ungainly Purple Gallinules clambering in the reads and as dusk approached, many Black-crowed Night Herons leaving their daytime roost to feed.
Early the next morning we took a flight east to Sandakan and after a brief stop for Crimson Sunbird, Long-billed Spiderhunter and Dusky Munia we were soon heading for the famous Kinabatangan River Wildlife Sanctuary. Our first stop however was at the nearby Gomantong – the huge caves here are home to literally millions of roosting bats and nesting swiftlets, and (once the initially overwhelming smell of guano is overcome!) provide a truly fascinating and spectacular spectacle. Here we were able to see four species of swiftlet – Glossy, Black-nest, Mossy-nest and Edible-nest Swiftlets, the latter 3 virtually indistinguishable in the field but easily identified by their unique nest structures. It is the nest of the Edible-nest Swiftlets that are of particular interest since they demand a high price in the Chinese market and it was amazing to discover the lengths to which locals will go to protect and harvest this valuable commodity.
In the adjacent forest we also recorded our first ‘White-crowned’ Shama (previously considered endemic to north Borneo but now re-lumped with White-rumped with which it freely interbreeds) and a showy Chestnut-backed Scimitar-Babbler before continuing on to a comfortable lodge, idyllically situated on the banks of the Kinabatangan River and our home for the next 2 nights.

Most of our time here was spent exploring the forest-lined Kinabatangan and it’s tributaries from the comfort of our boats and the birding was both relaxing and exciting in equal measure.

Buffy Fish-Owl, Kinabatangan River Wrinkled Hornbill, Kinabatangan River

Hornbills were particularly abundant here and we saw 6 species with excellent views of all, both perched and in flight, including the scarce and declining Wrinkled and the often elusive White-crowned which posed in the open for us in the late afternoon.
The rare Storm’s Stork was seen 3 times and included close-range views of a bird feeding near to our lodge, while a group of 8 spiraling Lesser Adjutants made an impressive sight.
Raptors were also conspicuous during our boat journeys with both Lesser and Grey-headed Fish-Eagles seen daily, Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle surprisingly abundant, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Crested Serpent-Eagle and a single White-fronted Falconet which proved to be the only sighting of the tour.
The riverine ecosystem is very rich in commoner lowland birds and we saw many; the diminutive Rufous Piculet close to of lodge, ‘Bornean’ Brown Barbet (with its pale bill and bright orange throat), Little Bronze, Violet and Drongo Cuckoos, Red-throated and Purple-naped Sunbirds, our only Bornean Black Magpies of the tour and spectacular Brown-backed Neddletails zooming overhead and even occasionally dropping down to the river to drink.
Calling pittas always manage to raise the pulse rate and we thus made several forays ashore in their pursuit – all were successful and we enjoyed great views of Hooded, an endemic Black-crowned singing from an overhead branch with red belly glowing and electric blue horns raised and best of all, a stunning Blue-headed Pitta which came in silently to investigate our impersonations but then showed at ultra-close range as he circled around us – fantastic!
Not surprisingly kingfishers were regularly encountered – Rufous-backed, Black-backed, Common, Blue-eared and Stork-billed all fairly common. Particularly memorable was our encounter with a roosting Blue-eared Kingfisher during a night-ride, which posed to within a few feet and was well photographed. A single Ruddy Kingfisher calling on 2 days was less cooperative and we had to be satisfied with flashes of colour as it twice crossed the river before again perching out of sight.
The other highlight on the night trip were excellent close views of Buffy Fish-Owls feeding from the river banks while ‘closer to home’ an impressive Brown Wood-Owl was seen close to the lodge in the middle of the night by those awoken by it calls.
The abundance of wildlife along the river was evident and many excellent sightings, the bizarre Proboscis Monkey was often seen, the males particularly amusing with their huge drooping noses, Orang-utan gave nice views on one occasion and we had wonderful views of a huge herd of Bornean Pygmy Elephants feeding and swimming on the river-bank right alongside our boat.

Bornean Pygmy Elephant, Kinabatangan River Proboscis Monkeys, Kinabatangan River

It was soon time to leave but fortunately we were heading for an equally enthralling destination, the famous Danum Valley Conservation Area which protects perhaps the largest remaining area of lowland rainforest in Sabah and is home to virtually all of Borneo’s lowland endemics and we were able to enjoy these in style based in our luxury eco-lodge right in the heart of the forest.
Hooded, Banded, Black-crowned and Blue-headed Pitta were all again vocal here and our first day began in style with a pair of Blue-headed Pittas giving excellent scope views as they fed, unconcerned on the trail ahead of us.
Unlike the abundant and vocal Striped Wren-Babbler, the two endemic Wren-Babblers both proved quite elusive and while we eventually tracked down a group of Black-throated feeding unobtrusively in the forest, we only managed brief views of Bornean Wren-Babbler.
Good numbers of hornbills were again seen and the spectacular Helmeted Hornbill perched and flying noisily overhead completing our tally of 8 hornbill species for the tour.
Chestnut-necklaced Partridge were often heard but typically hard to locate so we considered ourselves extremely fortunate to have prolonged views of a pair, feeding and calling from the nearby undergrowth. ‘Bornean’ Crested Firebacks were more conspicuous with several birds even parading themselves around the lodge in the early mornings.

Undoubtedly the highlight came one afternoon when from the canopy walkway we heard the distinctive calls of Bornean Ground-Cuckoo from deep within the forest below. The bird seemed far from the trail but we crept into the forest, gradually getting closer and closer as the bird continued calling. It was typically shy but as we tracked it we twice got tantalizing glimpses before it was finally tracked down as it peered back inquisitively from the undergrowth, the blue-green orbital skin glowing exquisitely against the black hood, an unforgettable encounter with perhaps Borneo’s most enigmatic endemic.
The forest here is extremely rich in birdlife and as we quietly walked the trails spectacular Scarlet-rumped, Red-naped and Diard’s Trogons frequently added splashes of colour to the forest as did striking Black-and-Yellow, Black-and-Red, Banded and Green Broadbills – the latter with its iridescent green plumage almost filling the telescope.
Flycatchers are typically elusive in the rainforest but often betray their presence with their sweet song and in this way we added the rare Large-billed Blue Flycatcher, endemic Bornean Blue Flycatcher and Grey-chested Jungle-Flycatcher.
‘White-crowned’ Shama were again common in the forest but we also found its skulking relative the Rufous-tailed Shama singing from a dense thicket where with patience we all obtained great views of this elusive bird.
Other families well represented included the Malkohas with Chestnut-breasted, Raffle’s and particularly good views of Red-billed, feeding high in the canopy but at eye-level from our viewpoint on the walkway. Woodpeckers included Grey-capped, Maroon, Banded, Orange-backed, Buff-rumped & Buff-necked, huge White-bellied and Great Slaty and in completely contrast the tiny fast-moving Rufous Piculet.
Other additions at Damun included Puff-backed and Yellow-bellied Bulbuls (from a total of 10 bulbul species seen), confiding Whiskered Treeswifts, White-crowned Forktail, Maroon-breasted and the commoner Rufous-winged Philentoma, Fluffy-backed Tit-babblers, Dark-throated Oriole, Lesser Cuckoo-Shrike, Black-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Asian Paradise-Flycatchers and a very vocal but elusive Moustached Hawk-Cuckoo high in the canopy.
A lack of fruiting trees made many species more difficult than usual so we considered ourselves fortunate not just to find Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker but to get such excellent close views while 4 species of flowerpecker included the difficult Thick-billed. Barbets were likewise scarce but most importantly our haul included both Red-crowned and an exceptionally responsive Blue-eared Barbet – both species which we had missed on the Peninsular Malaysia section of the tour.
Night-drives and walks at Danum produced some interesting mammals with Leopard Cat and Colugo (Flying Lemur) topping the bill and great views again of Brown Wood Owls and Buffy Fish Owls.

Bornean Crested Fireback, Danum Valley Blue-headed Pitta, Danum Valley

After flying back to Kota Kinabalu our next destination was the tropical island paradise of Pulau Tiga, lying offshore just 60km south of the state capital. The first of our targets, Tabon Scrubfowl was seen easily on the extensive trail system and even around the resort in the early mornings of late afternoons. Nicobar Pigeon on the other hand was noticeably scarcer than in the past and we managed just 2 brief sightings of this nomadic species.
Other species present included Germain’s Swiftlet, Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrot, good numbers of Pink-necked Green-Pigeons, Mangrove Whistler, Mangrove Blue Flycatcher and breeding Blue-naped Parrots – the latter of uncertain provenance since both wild and introduced populations occur on the islands around Sabah.
The seas off the northwest side of the island attracted good numbers of feeding and roosting terns, Greater Crested Terns predominated but we also picked out a single Whiskered, several Bridled and a surprise immature Sooty Tern.

After our final morning birding on Pulau Tiga we headed back to the mainland and headed inland getting our first views of the magnificent granite topped massif of Mount Kinabalu. At 4101m Mount Kinabalu is the highest peak in southeast Asia but more importantly for us it is the centre of distribution for almost all of Borneo’s spectacular montane endemics.
Our first morning began with a fantastic rush of new birds, many of them endemics; Bornean Treepie, Bornean Whistling-Thrush, White-browed Shortwing, Eye-browed Jungle-Flycatcher, Flavescent Bulbul, Temminck’s Babbler, Grey-throated Babbler, glowing-red Temminck’s Sunbirds and large groups of the delightful endemic Chestnut-crested Yuhina. Our breakfast in an idyllic restaurant overlooking the mountain proved ideal fro raptor-watching with Black Eagle, Changeable Hawk-Eagle then the endemic Mountain Serpent Eagle all taking advantage of the fine weather.
We also encountered our first feeding flocks with core species such as Black-capped White-eye, Mountain Tailorbird, Mountain Leaf Warbler, Yellow-breasted Warbler, Indigo Flycatcher, Black-and Crimson Oriole, White-throated Fantail, Sunda & Chestnut-capped Laughingthrushes,

During the next 7 days we made many visits to the mountain, exploring the extensive road and trail networks in the park which allow access you the wonderful montane forest filled with orchids, pitcher plants and of course birds. During our explorations tiny Bornean Stubtail was often heard giving its extremely high pitched call and we were lucky to enjoy great views of this skulker as it sang from an open perch just meters away, groups of Bare-headed Laughingthrushes flashed their bright blue neck pouches as they boomed out their song in unison and we eventually tracked down a calling Oriental Cuckoo after hearing them regularly. Our two biggest targets were proving elusive however and we were starting to fret when on our fourth day we heard the distinctive song of a Whitehead’s Trogon from far down the valley below. Amazingly we found the bird almost immediately and after some distant views made our way along the trail to try to get closer views, this worked perfectly and within minutes the stunning male trogon appeared at close range right in front of us. The bright red crown and belly, contrasting with a subtle slate-grey breast which merges into a black throat surely make this the finest of all Asian trogons and this bird certainly due some excited expletives as we watched the bird feeding nearby. Amazingly the day was to get even better for as we enjoyed yet another feeding flock, the huge shape of an electric-green Whitehead’s Broadbill appeared at eye-level. A second bird soon appeared and we had great views of these immense birds flying around and bobbing their heads frantically as they uttered their distinctive maniacal cackled song.

Golden-naped Barbet, Mount Kinabalu ‘White-crowned’ Shama, Poring Hot Springs

Our forays higher up the mountain produced Mountain Black-eyes, a surprise Mountain Barbet (uncommon at high altitudes), some very confiding Golden-naped Barbets and higher still along the narrow summit trail the endemic Kinabalu Friendly Warbler, which proved true to its name by wandering around of feet!
Other species recorded included Bornean Whistler, Short-tailed Green Magpie, Crimson-winged and Checker-throated all regularly joining the roving feeding flocks, Black-sided Flowerpecker, a single Sunda Cuckoo-Shrike and a pair of Pygmy Blue Flycatchers which responded to playback of their high pitched and barely audible song by flying in right above our heads.

On one morning we visited the forest at Poring where the avifauna shifted noticeable. Here in the hot, humid sub-montane forest we found our first Black-throated Babblers skulking in the undergrowth, spectacular views of Diard’s Trogon, Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker, White-bellied Yuhina, Purple-naped Sunbird and more sightings of the distinctive ‘Bornean’ Brown Barbet.
Our two morning visits further a field to the Rafflesia reserve near Tabunan added several species that are difficult or absent from the Kinabalu. These included two recently elevated to full species; Bornean Leafbird (split from Blue-winged) and Bornean Bulbul (split from Black-crested). Spiderhunters were abundant with Spectacled the commonest, our only Bornean’s of the tour and wonderful brown-and-white streaked Whitehead’s Spiderhunters flashing their bright yellow rumps and under-tails in the canopy completed our set of Whitehead’s trio of endemics. We also saw several Mountain Barbets here (contrary to the name, much commoner here than higher on the mountain) and a single, rather elusive Bornean Barbet.
We again saw Mountain Serpent Eagle here, 2 birds showing well soaring right over the road and the endemic Black-sided Flowerpecker was not uncommon.
Other interesting species recorded included Orange-backed Woodpecker, ‘Bornean’ Brown Barbets, Wreathed Hornbills, Large Woodshrike, Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, Long-tailed Broadbill, furtive Crested Jays, Drongo and Violet Cuckoos.
We finished the tour as we began with a visit to the marshes of Likas Bay where water-birds again included Purple Swamphean and Common Moorhen but Cinnamon Bittern was new for the tour list and against a wonderful backdrop as the sun set over Kota Kinabalu Bay we picked out two Rufous Night Herons among the commoner Black-crowned Night Herons flying out of their roosts to feed.

For further information on our scheduled or custom tours to Borneo please contact us via e-mail at info@birdtourasia.com or follow the links for our scheduled departure tours, please click here

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