Leader: Rob Hutchinson

Participants: Mike Catsis, Bud & Margaret Widdowson

Wallace’s Standardwing Bird of Paradise, Halmahera © Rob Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia

This Sulawesi and Halmahera custom tour followed the same itinerary as our scheduled tours and proved extremely successful. The unseasonably wet weather didn’t cause us too much disruption and our amazing list of endemics and specialties – almost all seen superbly - speaks for itself; On Sulawesi the enigmatic Maleo put on a great performance in the lowlands and in the highlands of Lore Lindu we saw a whole set of spectacular but difficult species including Purple-bearded Bee-eater, Great Shortwing, Malia, Sulawesi Thrush and amazing encounters with the unique Geomalia. Kingfishers included the delightful Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher and in addition to the expected Green-backed and Lilac-cheeked Kingfishers we added a superb Scaly Kingfisher – a difficult bird which is almost never seen by visiting tour groups. Our successes with night-birds deserve particular mention with fine views of Sulawesi and Diabolical Nightjars, Sulawesi Scops-Owl, Sulawesi Masked Owl, Ochre-bellied Boobook, Speckled Boobook and the restricted Cinnabar Boobook, the later described as recently as 1999 and as yet seen by just a handful of other birders. These are just the highlights and a brace of endemic raptors, pigeons, fruit-doves, lorikeets, racquet-tails, honeyeaters and Mynas confirmed this as one of the worlds ultimate birding destinations.
Likewise Halmahera produced a host of mouth-watering species; a display lek of Wallace’s Standardwing, Paradise Crow, Ivory-breasted Pitta, Purple Dollarbird, Scarlet-breasted Fruit-Dove, Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar, Moluccan Scops-Owl and Halmahera Boobook were the pick, but Dusky and Moluccan Scrubfowl, Sombre Kingfisher, Grey-throated Goshawk, Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk, Moluccan Goshawk and Halmahera Flowerpecker were a superb supporting cast. We were pleased to find excellent numbers of parrots including raucous White Cockatoo, Moluccan King-Parrot and the increasingly rare Chattering Lory.

Our first morning saw us drive from the bustling city of Manado up into the nearby Minahassa highlands and some excellent introductory birding on the slopes of Gunung (= mountain) Mahhwu. Both Barred and Buff-banded Rails were logged during the journey and upon entering the remnant forest we found great activity including our first Sulawesi endemics in the form of Sulawesi Myzomela, Yellow-vented Whistler, Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot, Sulawesi Babbler, Yellow-sided Flowerpecker, Grey-sided Flowerpecker and fascinating Streaky-headed White-eyes. We also saw several Superb Fruit-Doves, Mountain Tailorbird, Citrine Canary Flycatcher but the greatest prize was a pair of Rufous-throated Flycatchers – a scarce Sulawesi endemic which is difficult to find elsewhere and which we didn’t see again during the tour. Returning to the forest edge we found three species – Sulawesi, Uniform and Glossy – among the large congregations of swiftlets and two Black Eagles soared by.
We then drove to our next destination – the National Park at Tangkoko – stopping for nice views of our first Knobbed Hornbills and good numbers of Finch-billed Mynas along the roadside.
After lunch we took a boat trip out along the coast adjacent to Tangkoko noting Lesser Frigatebirds, Eastern Reef-Egret and good congregations of Black-naped Terns. A large cliff on the shore provided an ideal roosting spot for a pair of Sulawesi Masked Owls which we watched dozing from a discreet distance before heading into the mangroves. Paddling slowly along the mangrove lined channels showed up many kingfishers with Common, Sacred and Collared Kingfishers all common, but it was their rarer relatives which we were targeting and we had brief flight views of an iridescent Ruddy Kingfisher shooting across and prolonged views of the endemic Black-billed Kingfisher – a huge bird with an immense bill. Other nice species in the mangroves were large flights of Pied Imperial Pigeons, a single Stephan’s Dove which flew low across in-front of our boat and at least five White-rumped Cuckoo-shrikes. We finished the day with a Sulawesi Scops-Owl near to our lodge, which behaved impeccably, appearing right above our heads and giving prolonged views as it called away in the spot-light. Unfortunately we woke the following day to the sound of rain and this was to become a common theme during our two full days here and indeed during the rest of the tour, as the effects of the La Nińa weather systems took effect, giving wet conditions in what should have been the heart of the dry season. We were undeterred however and headed off into the forest and began to find some of the wonderful birds for which the park is famous; in open areas Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon, Black-naped Fruit-Dove, Sulawesi Triller, Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot, Blue-backed Parrot, Ornate Lorikeets and raucous Golden-mantled Racquet-tails. In the forest we had a brief glimpse of Black-billed Koel but better views of Ashy Woodpecker, Bay Coucal and Yellow-billed Malkoha. A calling Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle was eventually tracked down and we enjoyed good views of a striking white-bodied immature bird. Both Green-backed and Lilac-cheeked Kingfishers took some finding but then both proceeded to give fine views.
Slightly improved weather conditions in the evening allowed us to connect with several Sulawesi Crested Mynas congregating at a roost tree followed a short while later by several delightful Spectral Tarsiers emerging from their sleeping quarters inside a huge strangler fig. We finished with great views of a calling Sulawesi Nightjar in open grasslands near the lodge.
On our second morning we started early in an attempt to hike higher on the mountain in search of Scaly Kingfisher but just as we reached suitable elevations, the weather closed in and we were forced to admit defeat in the wet and windy conditions. We did see some great birds though, including a smart Ochre-bellied Boobook, taped-in and spot-lighted at dawn. During our walk down the mountain we saw our first Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills and an incredible fruiting tree which was literally teaming with Knobbed Hornbills, more Green-backed Kingfishers and an amazingly confiding Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher allowing superb studies of this avian gem. Other species recorded during our time in Tangkoko included Tabon Scrubfowl, Red Junglefowl, Barred Rail, Brown Cuckoo-Dove, Emerald Dove and Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeon, Sulawesi Cicadabird, Pale Blue Monarch and Rainbow Bee-eaters.

Our final morning was again devoted to locating Red-backed Thrushes which were incredibly (and unusually) difficult in the wet conditions. We found one bird but it was incredibly shy and only the guides and leader had views before it vanished again. While searching we did find a pair of day-roosting Ochre-bellied Boobooks which gave great views, both Green-backed and Lilac-cheeked Kingfishers again showed well and a couple of Isabelline Water-hens were teased out of the thick undergrowth for fine, unobscured views. In the open coastal forest a calling Sulawesi Black-Pigeon was located for great views and a fruiting tree attracted both Sulawesi Crested and our first White-necked Mynas. In the afternoon we made a drive to the city of Kotamabagu for an overnight stay in our comfortable ‘mansion’ hotel.

Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher, Tangkoko, Sulawesi © Rob Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia

Before dawn the next morning we were waiting eagerly in a clearing at Tambun, a well known breeding site for one of Sulawesi’s most wanted birds and it wasn’t long before we connected – loud flapping in the nearby trees drawing our attention to a pair of Maleo sitting quietly and giving nice views in the telescope. Better was to come when we found at least another 3 individuals which in greatly improved light showed extremely well perched in the open right above our heads, filling our scope as we enjoyed this beautiful megapode, flushed deep-pink on the underparts. Having finished with these spectacular birds and enjoying a tour around the captive breeding program at the site, we spent some time in the nearby forest seeing a flyby Sulawesi Black-Pigeon, a flushed Red Junglefowl and eventually some reasonable views of a calling but shy Red-bellied Pitta. The remainder of the morning was spent along the roadside at Tapakolintang where our first Sulawesi Serpent Eagles gave nice perched views, distant Ivory-backed Woodswallows soared over the nearby ridges, yet more Sulawesi Crested-Mynas were spotted and right on cue a trio of Purple-winged Rollers appeared perched high in a dead tree.
After lunch we stopped at some nearby marshes where Wandering Whistling-Ducks, Sunda Teal and White-browed Crakes were conspicuous, then in the afternoon we visited the nearby forest at Tarout, but unable to cross the river swollen by recent rains, we birded along the forest edge noting a flyover Sulawesi Black-Pigeon, White-necked Myna, brief Pygmy Hanging-Parrot, a female Black-billed Koel, and a flyover male Spotted Harrier. Small marsh areas produced yet more interesting waterbirds among which Black-backed Swamphens were the highlight. Remaining until after dark, we soon heard Speckled Boobooks calling nearby, one of which appeared at close range, initially giving rather brief views but later relocated for fine, prolonged views.
The next morning we again birded along the forested roadsides at Tapakolintang where activity was good despite the still overcast conditions. Just after dawn we taped-in Rusty-breasted Cuckoo for close views – here of the race venescens – a likely future split from this understudied complex. We also found White-necked Myna perched conspicuously on dead snags and a short distance along we found a fruiting tree which was attracting Sulawesi Back-Pigeon, several Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeons and numerous Black-naped Fruit-Doves. We soon picked out the distinctive calls of two Maroon-chinned Fruit-Doves and found one bird close to the road giving great scope views as it pumped its body with each note of its booming call – an excellent showing and a relief to locate this rare lowland Sulawesi endemic so quickly. Continuing along the road, Black Sunbird was new for the tour and we had our best views yet of Crimson Sunbird. Calling Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawks refused to show but a Sulawesi Goshawk passing right overhead was more obliging.
It wasn’t long before the now-expected rain began to fall but we continued birding and found some large trees full of activity including several Pygmy Hanging-Parrots among the more numerous Sulawesi Hanging-Parrots, Sulawesi Crested-Myna, a single Sulawesi Cicadabird, Sulawesi Triller, White-rumped Cuckoo-shrike and our main target – a pair of Pied Cuckoo-shrikes – another rare Sulawesi lowland endemic.

Green-backed Kingfisher (left), Tangkoko and Maleo (right), Tambun, Sulawesi

After another delicious lunch we returned again to our plush Kotamabagu hotel and in the afternoon continued into the mountains to Gunung Ambang.
Unfortunately the weather was very inclement on the mountain and we made it no further than a forest edge shelter, but we did add our first flyby White-bellied Imperial Pigeon and Fiery-browed Myna. With the weather clearly unsuitable for our planned night-birding session we retreated early ready for an extra early start the next morning. Overnight rain didn’t look promising and it was still drizzling when we arrived at Gunung Ambang in the early hours of the next morning but we continued regardless, arriving rather wet in the forest where we took a short, steep trail to our appointed spot. Amazingly given the conditions, it was only a few minutes before we heard a distant response from a Cinnabar Boobook and after some subtle teasing we were enjoying great views of this cute, rufous boobook, perching right above our heads. This bird was described as recently as 1999, its calls only described in 2005 and has still been seen by just a handful of birders! Despite the conditions we spent some time on the forest trails adding Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler, Sulawesi Pygmy-Woodpecker, Rusty-bellied Fantail, Sulawesi Drongo, Sulawesi Leaf-Warbler and Yellow-flanked Whistler among old favourites such as Island Verditer, Citrine Canary Flycatcher and Streaky-headed White-eye. Later in the day some time staking out a fruiting tree at the forest edge paid dividends with numerous Sulawesi Hanging Parrots and single Sulawesi Myzomela and Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker – the later significant as the only one we were to record during the tour. A flyover Sulawesi Honey-Buzzard was another addition – this form now endemic to the Sulawesi subregion following the splitting of Barred Honey-Buzzards into this species and Steere’s Honey Buzzard, endemic to the Philippines.

The following day we returned again to Manado and with a huge sense of excitement took a flight east to the island of Ternate and into the north Moluccas, home to yet another distinctive set of birds.

Endemic Owls of Sulawesi

Ochre-bellied Boobook (left), Tangkoko and Cinnabar Boobook (right), Gunung Ambang

Sulawesi Scops Owl (left), Tangkoko and Speckled Boobook (right), Dumoga Bone N.P.

A fast speed boat journey bought us to our destination of the island of Halmahera – one of the ultimate birding destinations in the world and famed as home to such spectacular species as Ivory-breasted Pitta and Wallace’s Standardwing. Not surprisingly we were all very keen to begin our exploration, so after lunch we headed to nearby Kali Batu Putih and spent the afternoon getting to grips with the exciting new avifauna.
We were immediately impressed with the abundance of parrots; Moluccan Red Lory, Red-cheeked Parrot, Eclectus Parrot, Great-billed Parrot and raucous White Cockatoo’s all appearing within our first few hours of birding. Carefully scanning also found Buru Imperial-Pigeon and Grey-headed Fruit-Dove while the recently-split Halmahera Swiftlet passed overhead and a Gurney’s Eagle soared over a distant ridge before disappearing into the late afternoon mist. A nearby fruiting tree was busy with an amazing number of Moluccan Hanging-Parrots, numbering at least 30 individuals, and Blyth’s Hornbills were abundant in the area. The open secondary habitat here is favored by some species and we found some such as Shining Flycatcher, White-streaked Friarbird, Northern Golden Bulbul and several Moluccan Starlings – surprisingly easy to separate from the commoner Metallic Starlings.
We started our trek in the early hours of the next morning but there were no complaints as this was perhaps the most eagerly anticipated day of the entire tour. Our night-time stroll through the lowland rainforest of Halmahera, traversing a crystal clear river in the process, added to the experience and well before dawn we were in position at the lek site of perhaps the islands most famous bird – the spectacular Wallace’s Standardwing Bird of Paradise. As we enjoyed a picnic breakfast in the dark, the gruff bark of a Moluccan Scops-Owl drew our attention and this large scops-owl was attracted closer for nice views. As dawn approached the weird cries of the Standardwings began to emanate from the nearby forest and we waited excitedly as the calling became more frequent and we had our first glimpses of the birds in the canopy overhead. As the light improved so did our views before we were enjoying amazing views as at least four male Wallace’s Standardwings bounced and danced in the trees above us, accompanied throughout by their raucous calls, and we watched enthralled as they displayed with metallic breast shields extended, wings spread and the long white ‘standards’ waved aloft, then as they reached the climax, the birds would launch themselves high above the canopy before parachuting down again to a favored perch. We enjoyed this spectacle for more than an hour and all agreed that this is truly one of the most amazing spectacles in the bird world and undoubtedly a ‘must see’ event for any keen birder.
As the lek became quiet, we began to explore the nearby forest. During the early hours several Sombre Kingfishers were vocal and we wasted no time seeking them out, soon enjoying great views as a pair of this huge forest kingfisher stared down at us from the canopy above – this is an inconspicuous and difficult species to find so we were obviously thrilled to connect so easily. Another common call in the forest here is the distinctive ‘wolf-whistle’ of the endemic Ivory-breasted Pitta and we had heard several calling distantly already. As we made our way along the trail it quickly became apparent that one of the pittas was calling from close to the path ahead so we approached carefully and found the bird, typically for the species it was calling from high up in the canopy. The Ivory-breasted is one of the most striking of all pittas – bright white underparts contrasting with silky-black upperparts and offset with a blood-red patch on the belly, all obvious as this individual called and jumped around excitedly overhead. Several other birds were added during our walk back through the forest including the scarce Blue-capped Fruit-Dove and out first encounters with dapper White-naped Monarch, Spectacled Monarch, Golden Whistler and additional Slaty and Shining Flycatchers.
In the afternoon we drove north along the coast to the town of Tobelo for an overnight stay getting close views of a soaring Gurney’s Eagle and with numerous Willie Wagtails along the roadsides lending a distinctly Australasian feel. After dinner we continued further north, gaining permission from local villages to visit the breeding beaches, to where Moluccan Scrubfowls regularly make the journey down from the forests to lay their single egg in the volcanic sands. A short walk and ride in small dug-out canoes saw us in prime habitat and we began to search carefully hoping to spot one of the scrubfowls as they came down to the beach. We didn’t have to wait long and little effort was required when within minutes a scrubfowl, apparently attracted by our powerful spotlight, flew in to greet us and landed in full view just meters away on the beach, allowing amazing views of this beautifully marked bird before it again flew off down the beach to continue with its egg-laying mission. The next morning we headed south again to the sleepy fishing village of Daru where we boarded boats for the journey across the bay to Foli. The weather was calm and we enjoyed a dry crossing, with several Crested and Common Terns among the large feeding frenzies of Bridled Terns.
Our first afternoon at Foli was spent birding along the now-disused logging road that heads up out of the village. Although the logging operations here have left only remnant forest in the area, it is nevertheless extremely rich in birds and as early as this first afternoon we logged fine views of Cinnamon-bellied Imperial-Pigeon, Pied Imperial-Pigeon, Brown Cuckoo-Doves (although the race albiceps here with its wholly rufous head was almost unrecognizable compared to the birds we had seen on Sulawesi), Superb and Grey-headed Fruit-Doves, Blyth’s Hornbill, Great-billed Parrot, Violet-necked Lory, White Cockatoo, Moluccan Hanging-Parrot and Red-flanked Lorikeets, which were all to prove common over the forthcoming days. We also found some of the scarcer specialties such as huge Goliath Coucal, White-naped Monarch, Blue-and-white Kingfisher, and the aptly named Drab Whistler. A perched Grey-throated Goshawk allowed nice scope views and we noted the features which identify this generally accepted split from Variable Goshawk. As the light began to fade the distinctive calls of Dusky Scrubfowls echoed from the nearby forest and we scrambled in, resulting in some brief flight views for some before one was finally located in its tree-top roost but sadly it moved on before the spot-light arrived. Our night-birding session proved rather frustrating as the Halmahera Boobook calling in the distance refused to approach and a skittish Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar announced its presence in a nearby tree with its weird calls but immediately departed and proved frustratingly elusive thereafter.

Black-billed Kingfisher (left), Tangkoko and Beach Kingfisher (right), Sidangoli, Halmahera

The night-birding proved more successful the next morning when we had great views of Halmahera Boobook – now an island endemic following the split of Moluccan Boobook into this species, Tanimbar Boobook and Hantu Boobook of Seram and Buru. The remainder of the day birding the logging road gave ample opportunities to get to grips with the numerous Moluccan, White-bellied and Halmahera Cuckoo-shrikes as well as the superficially similar Common Cicadabirds. These were all very common in the open secondary forest, as were Rufous-bellied Triller, Long-billed Crow and Dusky-Brown Oriole. Overhead, at least four Pacific Baza were spotted, several immense Goliath Coucals lopped through tangled vegetation and scanning of dead snags produced Blue-and-white Kingfisher and Moustached Treeswift. The greatest prize was superb views of a pair of Paradise Crows frequenting a fruiting tree – our second Bird of Paradise for the tour although distinctly less inspiring than the Wallace’s Standardwing! Another tricky bird was added in the form of Cream-throated White-eye and we enjoyed our best views so far of White-streaked Friarbird. The afternoon was quieter but excellent views were had of Buru Imperial Pigeon and a male Wallace’s Standardwing visiting a fruiting tree made it a double bird of paradise day.
After more frustrating Owlet-Nightjar encounters at dawn the next morning we spent some time along the roadside, finding our only Dusky Honeyeater of the tour and finally adding a spectacular pair of Moluccan King-Parrots which were typically followed by another pair in the forest just a short while later. The road also added further Blue-capped Fruit-Doves and a close Ivory-breasted Pitta before the rest of the morning was spent in a promising area for the rare Purple Dollarbird. We found no sign of the dollarbird in the unfavourable overcast conditions. A Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk was more obliging giving prolonged scope views and showing off its deep rufous neck-collar which separates it from all other accipiters present.
Unusual calls from the nearby scrub caused great excitement when claimed by our local guide to be Drummer Rail but when we finally tempted them briefly into the open they proved to be the more widespread Rufous-tailed Bush-hen – rather disappointing but we were nevertheless pleased to find this difficult Moluccan endemic. We finished the morning with a little more roadside birding giving Drab Whistler, the best views yet of Cream-throated White-eyes and our only Halmahera Flowerpeckers of the tour – this recent split being distinctly thin on the ground.
Wallace’s Standardwing again provided excitement in the afternoon – on this occasion a wacky looking female with luminous orange legs. In the late afternoon a flyover Moluccan Goshawk passed through, and then as dusk approached we again headed into the forest in pursuit of calling Dusky Scrubfowl but managed only flight views as they headed for their overnight roost spots. The dusk chorus of calling Common Paradise Kingfishers were equally elusive but with persistence one was located in near darkness, high in the canopy but seemed quite happy to pose in our powerful spotlight – a most unconventional way to see the birds but very successful with the bright light highlighting this spectacularly plumaged bird to perfection.
Our last morning again dawned overcast but began well when we found a nice open viewing place down into the roadside forest and finally managed to attract a Dusky Scrubfowl close enough for everyone to get satisfactory views. We followed this with amazing views of a female Wallace’s Standardwing feeding unconcerned at eye level before us, but things did not look promising again for our dollarbird hunt in the overcast conditions. Luckily fortune was on our side when a Purple Dollarbird was found perched quietly in the canopy far from their favored area and we had nice views of this heavy purple-blue beast with its big red bill, before it disappeared overhead with white wing-patches flashing. Ecstatic with this last minute success we headed onwards and just moments later scored a second victory when high pitched whistles drew our attention to a pair of gorgeous Chattering Lory’s feeding nearby – a north Moluccan endemic which is increasingly difficult to find as a result of trapping for the cage-bird trade. Amazingly this thrilling climax to our birding wasn’t over yet for while admiring the lory’s and a close pair of Paradise Crows, the calls of a distant Scarlet-breasted Fruit-Dove were picked out and after making our way towards the sound, only a brief burst of playback was required to bring this bulky fruit-dove bombing towards us and it proceeded to perform right above our heads with its distinctive rusty-orange belly and blood-red breast patch clearly on show.

Cinnamon-bellied Imperial-Pigeon (left), Tangkoko, Sulawesi and
Scarlet-breasted Fruit-Dove (right), Foli, Halmahera

Our boat trip back across the bay to Daru was a little wet in the choppy sea conditions but we again logged excellent numbers of terns. After lunch we returned south to Sidangoli with several Moustached Treeswifts seen by the roadside and a Gurney’s Eagle soaring overhead allowed everyone definitive views.
In the evening we headed for the logging road at Kali Batu Putih and had great views of a Large-tailed Nightjar, calling from a close perch at dusk. As darkness fell we tried again for Moluccan Owlet-Nightjars and things followed the usually pattern as they shot overhead or fled screaming at the mere licker of a torch beam until finally, and apparently in pity of us, one of these bizarre long-tailed, hairy-faced creatures decided to perch in full view right beside us and we watched in awe as it performed admirably for the next 20 minutes and was still perched happily when we departed – an extremely satisfactory experience after so many frustrating encounters.
The next morning we took a boat out into the mangroves around Sidangoli, noting many Moustached Treeswift, Dollarbird and White-bellied Cuckoo-shrikes before finally connecting with our target – Beach Kingfisher, which gave awesome views, largely thanks to Bud’s perfect whistled imitation of their calls.
All too soon it was again time to boat our speed boats back to Ternate and connecting flights to Manado and onwards to Makassar in the extreme south of Sulawesi.
Changes in flight schedules allowed us the whole of the next morning to explore the environs of Karaenta Forest reserve near Makassar. We soon logged our first of several Black-ringed White-eyes which gave fantastic close views, a true specialty of the area, a Sulawesi endemic, restricted to the south of the island and thus not present elsewhere on our birding route. A group of smart and very vocal Piping Crows soon appeared overhead as did Sulawesi Crested-Mynas. The next few hours gave some excellent birding with repeated views of the white-eyes and many frugivores including Sulawesi Black-Pigeon, Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeon, White-bellied Imperial-Pigeon and a pair of Blue-backed Parrots.
As the temperature began to rise, bird activity dropped and we spent the remainder of the morning, exploring various fish ponds in the area. Yellow and Cinnamon Bittern where noted on the more vegetated ponds whereas those with shallow mud attracted Long-toed Stint, Wood Sandpiper, Kentish Plover and a group of White-headed Stilts. Little and Whiskered Terns fed nearby and surrounding fields and scrub hosted Palm and House Swifts, Spotted Kestrel, Black-eared Kite, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, White-shouldered Triller and a skulking Australian Reed-Warbler.
In the afternoon we took the short flight north into central Sulawesi and drove to Wuasa village, deep in the heart of Lore Lindu National Park and our home for the next 4 nights.

Yellow-sided Flowerpecker (left), Karaenta, and Purple-bearded Bee-eater, Lore Lindu N.P.

Pre-dawn the next morning saw us taking a roadside breakfast in the montane forest of nearby Lore Lindu National Park and the first call to catch our attention was a distinctive tremulous whistle. The call was taped and as dawn arrived the bird twice shot overhead in response to playback before we finally nailed it down and confirmed its identity as a spectacular male Scaly Kingfisher! The bird was located a total of three times, on the last occasion in much improved light it posed in full telescope view on an open branch for everyone to enjoy. This is one of just a handful of records for Lore Lindu and we were interested to note the bright red bill and reduced scaling on the underparts of this erythrorhamphus race from central Sulawesi. Over the next few hours more new species followed including small parties of Yellow-and-green Lorikeets zooming overhead, a pair of Purple-bearded Bee-eaters posing in the telescope by the roadside, a Yellow-flanked Whistler and an obliging pair of Blue-fronted Flycatchers. Open areas gave great views of perched Oriental Hobby and Ivory-backed Woodswallow while exciting feeding flocks included two new cuckoo-shrikes – Cerulean and Pygmy Cuckoo-shrikes, two Malia briefly for some and both the endemic Lesser and Greater Sulawesi Honeyeaters among a collection of more expected species such as Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, Sulawesi Drongo, Sulawesi Dwarf and Ashy Woodpeckers. As the wet weather again closed in we headed back to the lowlands enjoying yet more spectacular views of Purple-bearded Bee-eaters perched low by the roadside and at super-close range – this is always one of the major targets of birders visiting Sulawesi and nobody left disappointed as we soaked in the diagnostic purple ‘beard’ contrasting with chestnut-hued face mask and nape, all contrasting with bright green upperparts as this huge bee-eater sat pumping its long forked tail before us in between hunting sallies which eliminated several large flying bugs.
After an excellent lunch and short rest we headed out again, birding in the lower forests which were much more profitable given the wet conditions and it was here we noted several Grey-headed Imperial-Pigeons passing overhead, often interspersed among flocks of the numerous White-bellied Imperial-Pigeons. We also found yet more Purple-bearded Bee-eaters and several Superb Fruit-Doves before dropping down again to lower elevations where both White-necked and Sulawesi Crested-Mynas were found and singing Lemon-bellied White-eyes were new for us.
The next morning we started early for our long anticipated visit to the famous Anaso Track. Unfortunately we were going to have to work hard for the birds today as the recent heavy rains had again damaged the bridge along the track which we had repaired and had been passable just the previous week, leaving us a 1 ½ hour walk rather than an uncomfortable but considerably shorter jeep ride to our destination!
The effort was well rewarded however when one of Sulawesi’s most fascinating and perplexing species – the Geomalia – appeared on the track right in front of us and gave great views as it obligingly bounded around with its lanky legs supporting a rotund body, short wings but with a long tail trailing behind. This species has various features indicating links to babblers or thrushes but appears closely related to neither and in the absence of other evidence appears to be best allied with the shortwings… the DNA analyses of this species will certainly be eagerly anticipated!
A Great Shortwing seen very briefly on the trail could not be seen subsequently and another bird calling in thick vegetation close to the track was equally elusive but we did finally manage some views of a third bird which twice flew across the trail ahead of us. Unfortunately it was then time for the threatened rain to arrive but we did manage some identifiable views of several Red-eared Fruit-Doves in the fog. Further down the track the rain eased for us to enjoy a delightful pair of Diabolical Nightjars huddled together at their daytime roost in a grassy clearing.
After a picnic lunch in the drizzle we headed to the lower slopes in search of some better weather, soon finding a fine Grey-headed Imperial-Pigeon perched nicely on a dead snag by the roadside. The lower areas were indeed ‘less wet’ and roadside birding found several White-bellied Imperial-Pigeons, a small group of Sulawesi Crested-Mynas, Piping Crows and a singing Sulawesi Blue-Flycatcher – whose simple song and distinct plumage confirms the usual treatment of the form as distinct from Mangrove Blue-Flycatcher.
The next morning we started with great views of Great Shortwing, on this occasion a very responsive individual which gave some nice close views and a short while later the ‘whip-lash’ calls of a Maroon-backed Whistler drew our attention and we had some brief views as it typically skulked inconspicuously in the undergrowth. The forest produced little but we all later enjoyed great views of the Maroon-backed Whistler in the same spot. The remainder of the day was spent on a clean up mission in the vicinity of Danau Tambing and in particularly two taxonomically fascinating species – the greatest prize was the Sulawesi Thrush found by Margaret and Mike which showed well twice in the same area – this perplexing species has been included within the thrushes previously but shows few behavioral or morphological affinities and may be more correctly placed within the babblers. We also finally found a couple of obliging groups of Malia – another extraordinary bird whose affinities can only currently be guessed at. This set of birds surely provide some of the biggest challenges facing modern day taxonomists.
We also had our best views yet of both Lesser and Greater Honeyeaters, Red-eared Fruit-Doves in much better light than previously, several singing Blue-fronted Flycatchers were unusually conspicuous and we finally enjoyed perched views of Yellow-and-green Lorikeets after so many frustrating high-speed flyovers. The open areas again produced nice views of perched Oriental Hobby and a pair of Sulawesi Honey-Buzzards circling overhead.

The next morning was again spent at Danau Tambing allowing Bud to catch up with the Sulawesi Thrush as it associated with a feeding flock of Sulawesi Drongos in the same area and we were all happy to enjoy excellent repeat views of such specialties as Ivory-backed Woodswallow, Cerulean and Pygmy Cuckoo-shrikes and entertaining Piping Crows. On this final afternoon we headed back to Palu making several profitable stops, one of which produced an impressive flock of our first Purple Needletails while the paddy fields hosted an obliging Buff-banded Rail. Our last stop was in the scrubby Oloboje river bed which was teeming with birds and we added several new birds even during this final birding. The biggest target was Pale-headed Munia – restricted to Sulawesi and the Lesser Sunda islands – which we found in good numbers among the flocks of Black-headed Munias and a couple of Black-faced Munia. The area was extremely rich in other birdlife with large numbers of hawking Rainbow Bee-eaters, White-shouldered Triller and Pied Bushchat. Margaret proved the most effective ‘beater’ flushing two Savanna Nightjars which gave nice flight views in excellent light and we all enjoyed some reasonable glimpses of Red-backed Buttonquails scuttling in the undergrowth. Yet more Savannna Nightjars noisily hawking around our hotel in Palu drew this immensely enjoyable trip to a close with a final tally of 253 species, 4 of them heard only. This total include no less then 32 Moluccan endemics and 80 species endemic to the Sulawesi subregion.

Diabolical Nightjar

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