Sulawesi and Halmahera

12th September – 1st October 2010

Leader: Robert Hutchinson

Participants: Carole Breedlove, Janet Castle, Mike Hoit,
Alain Jortay, Ben Martin and Ian Smith

Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher, Tangkoko, Sulawesi © Rob Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia

Sulawesi and Halmahera are undoubtedly the endemism hotspots of this fantastically diverse archipelago and our tours excel in finding almost all of the realistic endemics on this route. Highlights are difficult to pick from such an impressive bird-list but the magnificent pink-hued Maleo, Purple-bearded Bee-eater, Ivory-breasted Pitta and Wallace’s Standardwing are obvious candidates but the unassuming Olive-flanked ‘Whistler’ or Hylocitrea is attracting its own admirers now that it is elevated to family status!
As always the endemic kingfishers were greatly admired and ranged from the stunning Sulawesi Dwarf in the understory on Sulawesi to the brutal Sombre Kingfisher in the forest canopy on Halmahera. Night-birds all performed well and daytime views of Ochre-bellied Boobook, the rare Cinnabar Boobook at Lore Lindu and the beautiful yet bizarre Moluccan Owlet Nightjar were favourites. There are too many to name but other standout highlights included amazing day-roosting Diabolical Nightjars, Red-bellied Pitta glowing from the forest floor, outstanding views of Red-backed Thrush and Moluccan Scrubfowl on the most amazingly atmospheric moon-washed beach.

On our first morning we broke the drive to Kotamobagu with a stop at some interesting rice fields along the way. These gave us a chance to put our bins into action with a range of egrets and herons that included our only Intermediate Egret of the trip, White-winged Black Tern and waders including Pacific Golden Plover. Highlights included great views of Buff-banded Rail posing in the open and a hunting Spotted Harrier quartering the fields. It was the afternoon when the real action began as we headed for the Maleo reserve at Tambun. We began along the nearby roadside where despite the mid-afternoon heat we found Sunda Teal, Wandering Whistling Duck and a Grey Heron – the latter apparently a scarce bird in Sulawesi. Entering the reserve itself we settled down for some careful scanning of the surrounding forest and ridges and we were soon adding new birds, some common species like Black-naped Oriole and Grey-rumped Treeswift but among them were our first endemics including Yellow-billed Malkoha, Back-billed Koel, Knobbed Hornbill, Ashy Woodpecker, White-necked Myna and the often scarce Sulawesi Cicadabird. Two species noted are distinctive at a subspecies level so we paid careful attention to the paulina Green Imperial Pigeons and leucops Hair-crested Drongos in case of future ‘armchair ticks’. Rarest birds of the afternoon were a perched immature Sulawesi Hawk Eagle, Yellow-breasted Racquet-tails and then as dusk approached no less than three Maleo made their cumbersome way up into the canopy of the nearby forest and we were able to enjoy scope views in the last of the remaining light.

Purple-bearded Bee-eater at Gunung Ambang and a recently fledged juvenile Maleo about to be released from the hatchery at Tambun, Sulawesi © Rob Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia

We set out in the very early hours the next morning as we headed for the higher altitudes of Gunung Ambang, home to some very localised endemics. Early morning owling produced three species vocalising including the rare Cinnabar Boobook but none could be tempted closer and would have to wait until later in the tour. As dawn broke another big target began calling and at least one from the pair of Scaly Kingfishers was seen flying overhead but never settled for us to find, and typically went quiet as soon as it was light enough to see properly. A trek deeper into the forest brought us into prime territory for our major target here and after some patient waiting and searching we enjoyed great views of the subtle Matinan Flycatcher, whose understated appearance belies the rarity of this species which was only rediscovered this century and is still known from just this single mountain range. We went on to see another two Matinan’s during the morning while other new birds included Sulawesi Leaf Warbler, Streak-headed and Black-fronted White-eyes, Yellow-vented Whistler, Island Verditer, Citrine Canary Flycatcher, Sulawesi Babbler, Sulawesi Drongo and several Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler. Best birds were two Red-eared Fruit Doves and a pair of Purple-bearded Bee-eaters nesting in a trailside bank which gave quite stunning views. The open fields below the forest also held Brown Cuckoo Dove (here the subspecies albicapilla) and Black Kite was noted on the journey back to Kotamobagu.
In the afternoon the weather was a little inclement so we opted for some roadside birding which proved an excellent decision with birding activity high and we added such delights as a noisy group of Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills, White-bellied Imperial Pigeon and dapper Sulawesi Crested Mynas. A huge fruiting tree also attracted large flocks of Grey-cheeked Green Pigeons, and good numbers of Gorantalo Macaques were busily scoffing the tasty fruits.
Next morning we made a return visit to the Tambun Reserve, arriving before dawn to add close flight views of Sulawesi Nightjar and several Great Eared Nightjars hawking together. The reserve area was typically lively in the early hours and we were able to add great views of Sulawesi Black Pigeon, and perched views of at least three Pygmy Hanging Parrots allowing comparative views with some Large Sulawesi Hanging Parrots close by. We also enjoyed nice views of Pale-blue Monarch, showy Sulawesi Dwarf Woodpeckers, large groups of Finch-billed Myna together with further views of Sulawesi Crested Myna, Sulawesi Cicadabird, Sulawesi Triller, Black-billed Koel, Black-naped Fruit Dove and a single tree attracted Rusty-breasted, Himalayan and Gould’s Bronze Cuckoos! The nearby roadsides gave us Sulawesi Hawk Eagles, Sulawesi Serpent Eagle and Sulawesi Honey Buzzard then before returning for lunch we made a stop to search for roosting Speckled Boobooks at Torout which were rather shy but fortuitously chose to perch up right in front of the group! Then Pied Cuckooshrikes made a surprise appearance in the garden of the forestry offices and gave us all excellent views without any need to crane our necks to see them in the forest canopy!
The afternoon weather was much better so we took the opportunity to visit the scrappy forest across the river from Torout in Bogani Nani Wartebone National Park. After an entertaining raft crossing during which both Black-crowned and Rufous Night Herons were seen, we set out exploring the forest trails and found it throbbing with bird activity. Flocks of spectacular Ornate Lorikeets were screeching all around, Blue-backed Parrots gave good views and after some hard work so did Yellow-breasted Racquet-tails feeding in a fruiting tree.

Bay Coucal, Tambun and Matinan Flycatcher, Gunung Ambang © Rob Hutchinson

Yet more Pied Cuckooshrikes were seen as was our first Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher and Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeons. After the afternoon birding we hung around the forest edge and not long after dusk this was rewarded when a pair of magnificent Sulawesi Masked Owls arrived to scream from the top of nearby trees and looked quite superb as they posed in the scope!
We began the next morning along the roadside adjacent to a marsh where White-browed Crake, Common Moorhen and Black-backed Swamphen were easily found. Our main target here though was Isabelline Bush-hen and after some time their distinctive calls could be heard coming from the nearby scrub. With some careful positioning no less than three birds were tempted to cross the open road in front of the group, one of which sauntered across quite casually giving nice studies.
As we were still missing Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove – a key endemic of this area – we made another return to the forest at Torout. Ornate Lorikeets were again much in evidence and we were hearing occasional fruit doves but nothing very close so we set out off-piste into the forest and were soon enjoying scope views of a fine Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove calling away. A Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill, another Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail and Pied Cuckooshrike were additionally logged and Sulawesi Serpent Eagle and Spotted Harrier soared overhead before it was time to make our way back to Manado, where a fine lunch spread awaited us on the seafront with panoramic views of Manado city and Bunaken Island offshore. Once we were well fed and rested we continued east towards Tangkoko, stopping for birding along the approach road in the late afternoon. From our lookout we could see almost untouched forest spreading all the way to the top of the Tangkoko volcano and many birds were on the move as the heat of the day subsided. A Peregrine was found perched while many White-bellied and Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeons were flying and perched all around. A good sized group of at least 30 Golden-mantled Racquet-tails came in to visit a fruiting tree and great views were had of a group of 8 Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills.

Our first day at Tangkoko began not long after dawn and the first bird of the day was a real treat. A ‘wintering’ Elegant Pitta had been present for some weeks and after some searching we were all able to enjoy views of the bird, apparently of the race elegans, a non-breeding visitor from its breeding grounds in Timor.
A cockatoo caused much interest but close views showed it most likely a Sulphur-crested, and therefore likely an escaped cagebird but three Purple-winged Rollers and a pair of White-rumped Cuckooshrikes were certainly wild birds! As we continued into the forest the next treat was an amazingly obliging Red-backed Thrush which posed on low branches to enjoy every detail of his plumage. Continuing into the forest several Tabon Scrubfowl were found and we were soon enjoying our first of several Green-backed and Lilac-cheeked Kingfishers, then our brilliant local guides came up trumps with a pair of roosting Ochre-bellied Boobooks. The morning wasn’t yet finished however and next came another stunning endemic kingfisher; this time Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher was the prize and while following this we bumped into a Red-bellied Pitta as well!!
The afternoon was typically quieter but we finished with a family of endearing Spectral Tarsier emerging from their roost in a strangler fig. We finished the day with a Sulawesi Scops Owl appearing in super-fast time around our cabins after dinner.

Red-backed Thrush, Tangkoko, Sulawesi © Rob Hutchinson

Ochre-bellied Boobooks and Sulawesi Scops Owl, Tangkoko © Rob Hutchinson

Next morning was spent trying to catch up our few remaining missing species and this was successful with a pair of Spot-tailed Goshawk found calling from high up in the canopy, even better looks at a stunning Red-bellied Pitta which perched up to call back to us, and finally an obliging Ruddy Kingfisher along the stream in the nearby village. There were others birds as always and we enjoyed more close views of Green-backed Kingfishers, Ashy Woodpecker and Pale-blue Monarch. The afternoon birding was a much more relaxed affair, as we took boats out along the coast and into a nearby mangrove channel. The ride along the coast produced many Pacific Reef Egrets and Striated Herons, Lesser Frigatebird and House Swifts while in the mangroves themselves Great-billed Kingfisher – yet another endemic – was superbly obliging. Whimbrel, Grey-tailed Tattler, Sacred Kingfisher, White-rumped Cuckooshrike, Pink-necked Green Pigeon and Pied Imperial Pigeon were also observed.

We set out early the next morning for an early visit to Gunung Mahawu where Scaly Kingfisher was again heard predawn but could not be relocated later. We did find some excellent new birds though including Sulawesi Blue Flycatchers, scarce Crimson-crowned Flowerpeckers, Superb Fruit Dove and a sunning Sulawesi Myzomela.
Then it was time to continue down to Manado for our flight to Ternate and an exciting transition into the realm of Australasian avifauna. After lunch in Ternate we set out for the short crossing to Halmahera which gave us our first sea-birding with Aleutian Tern flying right over the boat and Bulwer’s Petrel the highlights. As we approached Halmahera we started carefully scanning the mangrove edges and within minutes found our first Beach Kingfisher glowing in the sunshine with persil-white head and underparts contrasting with cyan upperparts. Our first Moustached Treeswift on dead snags above the mangroves was an additional bonus here.

Lilac-cheeked and Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfishers, Tangkoko © Rob Hutchinson

From here we headed north directly to Tobelo but there were plenty of birds along the way including our only Little Pied Cormorant of the trip, first Grey-throated Goshawk, Grey-headed Fruit Dove, White-bellied Cuckooshrike, Blyth’s Hornbill, Paradise Crow plus no less than 15 Blue-and-white Kingfishers and 79 Willie Wagtails! After dinner we set out north again to the famous Moluccan Scrubfowl nesting beach at Galela. The journey here crossing the river estuary by traditional dug-out canoe to land on the black volcanic sands of the beach washed in the light of a full moon, was exciting enough on its own but the amazing views we had of Moluccan Scrubfowl frozen in the spot-light within minutes were even better! We finished a fantastic evening with a Moluccan Scops Owl perched in a coconut tree right over the trail.

The next morning after a late breakfast (in daylight no less!) we headed south to Daru and our boat across the bay to Foli. The crossing to Foli was alive with sea-birds with Roseate, Sooty and Bridled Terns amongst the thousands of commoner terns and nice views of 4 Bulwer’s Petrel, Brown Booby and Long-tailed Skua.
With four nights based in Foli we had plenty of time to explore the logging road and surrounding forest patches in search of the exciting island endemics. This began on the first morning with a very short walk to the newly discovered Wallace’s Standardwing lek, what a bonus that we no longer have to trek for hours through the dark to witness the amazing display of these birds as they flashed long white ‘standards’, erected green breast-shields, and parachuting above the canopy to impress the attendant females, truly a must-see spectacle. Also while watching we found a Sombre Kingfisher perched high in the canopy while a Red-bellied Pitta skulked in the understory, and nearby a calling Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove was called in and flew right overhead, our only sighting of this elusive bird. Our next big target also fell in the afternoon in the form of a huge Ivory-breasted Pitta which played hide-and-seek, calling all around us, before finally hopping up onto an open branch before dropping down again to the forest floor. That day finished with Dusky Scrubfowl flying up into the trees to roost, by far the easiest time to see them!
Much of the remainder of our time was spent along the roadsides with open forest where most birds were easy to see and very visible. Parrots were common and easy to see with Red-cheeked, Eclectus and Great-billed the commonest. White Cockatoo and Red-flanked Lorikeets were also easy to see but Moluccan Hanging Parrot by comparison gave just a few good views. The real prizes however were the lory’s with great views of Violet-necked and the increasingly scarce Chattering Lory.
Goliath Coucals were seen several times as they cumbersomely clambered around and other favourites included several sightings daily of Blue-and-white Kingfishers, Blyth’s Hornbill, Long-billed Crow and we had another exciting encounter with a roadside Ivory-breasted Pitta which gave great views to those in the right spot.
Moluccan and Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeons were conspicuous, Brown Cuckoo Dove (here of the race batchianensis – watch out for a split!) was common, Superb Fruit Dove and the diminutive Blue-capped Fruit Dove were enjoyed several times. Raptors were represented by frequent Grey-throated Goshawk, Pacific Baza and a huge Moluccan Goshawk briefly on our first afternoon.
The open nature of the habitat was ideal for viewing canopy-dwellers such as Moluccan Cuckooshrike and Common Cicadabird but just a single Halmahera Cuckooshrike was noted. Likewise Dusky-brown Oriole was seen just once and took some effort to find, but we did enjoy some nice views of Paradise Crow, and Gray’s Grasshopper Warblers – recently arrived winterers – showed quite nicely in the roadside scrub.
Moluccan Flycatcher and Spectacled Monarch were seen several times but the elusive Shining Flycatcher showed just once, likewise Golden Whistler was scarce but the altogether more attractive Drab Whistler showed up twice. White-streaked Friarbird and Dusky Honeyeater were frequent, we had two sightings of Halmahera Flowerpecker by careful searching of their favourite acacia trees and Cream-throated White-eye where located in the scrubbiest of habitat.

Moluccan Scops Owl and Moluccan Scrubfowl, Halmahera © Rob Hutchinson

Those who braved the heat of the day by venturing out near the village at lunch times were rewarded with good views of Greater Sandplovers, Grey-tailed Tattler, Terek Sandpiper, White-browed Crake and Rufous-tailed Bush-hen.
Night-birding was tough going but persistence paid dividends as a pair of Halmahera Boobooks finally appeared at close range and after some patient searching we enjoyed quite wonderful views of the bizarre Moluccan Owlet Nightjar which justly shone through as the winner in the ‘bird-of-the-tour’ vote.
A return to the standardwing leks on the final morning yielded a ‘Moluccan’ Drongo Cuckoo, and further views of both Sombre and Common Paradise Kingfishers. It was then time to leave and we again enjoyed some exciting birding on the boat crossing with close views of Brown Booby, 10 more Bulwer’s Petrels, 2 Long-tailed and 10 Arctic Skuas and a single Brown Noddy on the way to Daru. We stopped at a mountain pass on the way back for more Grey-throated Goshawk and Black Eagle and then the crossing to Ternate added another twelve Bulwer’s Petrels.
While some enjoyed their time in the luxury hotel the next morning the rest of us explored the island, making our way to a picturesque volcano crater where Little Grebes were common, White Cockatoo and Great-billed Parrot gave nice views and our first Grey-streaked Flycatcher – a returning winter visitor – showed well.
Our flight from Ternate to Makassar was a little delayed so we went straight out to explore the nearby fishponds on arrival. We found some great ponds which gave us an excellent selection of waders to study. Javan Plovers and White-headed Stilts, Curlew Sandpipers and Red-necked and Long-toed Stints were the highlights but we also found White-browed Crake, Buff-banded Rail, Australian Swamphen, Wandering Whistling Ducks and Sunda Teal and a single Red-necked Phalarope. Many herons and egrets were present and towards dusk we also noted several Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns heading out to feed.
Other distractions aside from the water-birds were White-shouldered Triller, Scaly-breasted and Pale-headed Munia, Australian Reed Warbler and Zitting Cisticola in the surrounding scrub and the day finished with at least two Savanna Nightjars calling right beside the road as we departed.
Our visit to Karaenta the next morning began with our main target – Black-ringed White-eye – seen during our picnic breakfast and not long after we found the sanfordi race of Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill, a Sulawesi Crested Myna and a fine Sulawesi Goshawk perched high on the forested limestone escarpments. Large groups of Golden-mantled Racquet-tails passed overhead and we again had great looks at both Pygmy and Large Sulawesi Hanging Parrots side-by-side. Nearby Bantimurung didn’t hold any significant birds but we did enjoy nice views of the very dark resident ernesti Peregrines and Moor Macaques were a nice addition to the primate list.
Then it was time for our flight to Palu on the central west coast of Sulawesi and the scenic drive into Lore Lindu National Park and our base for the next five nights in the quiet village of Wuasa.

Halmahera Flowerpecker and Blue-and-white Kingfisher, Halmahera © Rob Hutchinson

Our first morning up in the forests of Lore Lindu was particularly action packed as new birds arrived thick-and-fast. From our roadside vantage point we soon found Cerulean and Pygmy Cuckooshrikes, Blue-fronted Flycatcher, Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeaters and Sulawesi Myzomela. The charismatic Malia was typically found creeping along mossy boughs and best of all an Olive-flanked ‘Whistler’ – now better known as Hylocitrea – an unassuming bird which has drawn fame recently because it has been found to be much more closely related to the Bombycillidae (Waxwings) than to any whistlers and has now been placed in its own, monotypic and endemic family. Janet more than anyone was thrilled to see the bird so quickly, as this represented her final bird family, a great achievement! Moving further along the road we added fantastic views of a pair of Sulawesi Thrush, then exploration of a beautiful forest trail found a good sized feeding flock which included canopy-dwelling Blue-faced Parrotfinches and Pygmy Cuckooshrikes. Snowy-browed Flycatcher was down in the understory as were an extremely elusive pair of Maroon-backed Whistler.
We spent the afternoon down in the lower valley where Crimson Sunbird and Lemon-bellied White-eye were new and Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, Rufous-bellied Eagle and our first Purple Needletails were overhead.

Our next day was spent along the famous Anaso track, with access to some of the higher-altitude specialities of Sulawesi. Unfortunately the road is no longer accessible by vehicle but the uphill walk was worth it as we began with our first flyover Mountain Serin and continued with Red-eared Fruit Dove, large flocks of Golden-mantled Racquet-tails, Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater, another Hylocitrea and an obliging pair of Maroon-backed Whistlers. No less than 10 Purple-bearded Bee-eaters were seen during the day with nesting activity obviously in full swing and the mud banks of the Anaso track providing ideal platforms for their holes. Over lunch we were able to enjoy a roosting Diabolical Nightjar at leisure and then our walk down in the afternoon found a typically unobtrusive Sombre Pigeon busily munching on some impressive palm fruits which it swallowed whole, little wonder that it barely appeared able to fly after this huge meal!

We had made quite a dent in our targets already allowing us to concentrate on a few missing species. A pre-dawn start allowed the first to be seen very well as a Cinnabar Boobook appeared right at dawn for some fine views. Our next target was Great Shortwing but the first bird which called strongly for some time then promptly vanished without a glimpse. Luckily (after yet another Sulawesi Thrush sighting) we had back-up sites and at the next of these the bird performed exactly as expected, making a slow circuit around us to allow views for all before he disappeared again upslope.
Next up was a visit to Lake Tambing where careful scanning of the surroundings produced another fine Purple-winged Roller, Ornate Lorikeets and more importantly several Ivory-backed Woodswallows which had been strangely absent until now. Lower down in the valley we were able to find Tawny Grassbirds – a species narrowly endemic to just this one valley in Sulawesi - and we found the flowering trees here full of Yellow-and-green Lorikeets which offered good views and explained their surprising scarcity in the higher forests.
The fine weather also allowed us to see Sulawesi Honey Buzzard and Sulawesi Serpent Eagle today.
Another assault on the Anaso track the next day gave more excellent views of many of the same species including Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, Red-eared Fruit Dove and Diabolical Nightjar, while a feeding flock held a pair of Sulawesi Thrush. Sulawesi Hawk Eagle were enjoying the fine weather and over lunch were obtained prolonged views of an obliging Small Sparrowhawk which seemed to be hunting for frogs and a small pond.

Diabolical Nightjar and Cinnabar Boobook, Lore Lindu © Rob Hutchinson

Our last morning was spent in a side valley at lower altitudes where we found several Knobbed Hornbills, a pair of Purple-winged Rollers, a calling Spot-tailed Goshawk, two Sulawesi Serpent Eagles and several White-bellied Imperial Pigeons although the highly nomadic Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon remained absent. Most impressive sighting of the morning though was a group of Purple Needletails passing through, numbering well in excess of 200 birds!
Making our way back towards Palu we had time for one last stop in some open riverside scrub which proved fantastic for birding. Several Savannna Nightjars were flushed up and gave great views, then with a little more work we saw several of both Barred and Red-backed Buttonquails plus a fine supporting cast of Emerald Dove, Asian Palm Swift, White-shouldered Triller and Pale-headed Munia. A final stop for close views of a hunting Spotted Harrier in rice fields on the edge of Palu town bought the trip to an appropriate end.

Spectral Tarsier and Sulawesi Crested Macaque, Tangkoko, Sulawesi

White-rumped Cuckooshrike and Yellow-sided Flowerpecker, Tangkoko, Sulawesi

Green-backed and Great-billed Kingfishers, Tangkoko, (above), Sulawesi Large-tailed Nightjar and Ornate Cuscus, Halmahera (below)

Island Verditer and Citrine Canary Flycatcher, Lore Lindu (above), Grey-sided Flowerpecker and Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher, Lore Lindu (below)

Click here to view the Systematic Bird List

Click here to download the report as a pdf

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