Sulawesi and Halmahera
1st – 20th September 2008
Leader: Rob Hutchinson
Participants: John Clark, David Fisher, Brian Foster, Tony Lancaster, Pat Lancaster, Ron Demey and Rita Swinnen.
Maleo, Tambun ©Rob Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia
Sulawesi and Halmahera is truly one of the world’s ultimate birding trips and a glance at the species list confirms why; with an expected total of more than 100 regional endemics headed by such eye-catchers as Maleo, Ivory-breasted Pitta, Purple-bearded Bee-eater, Purple Dollarbird, Scaly Kingfisher, Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher, Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher, Great Shortwing, Sulawesi Thrush, Cinnabar Boobook and the extraordinary display lek of Wallace’s Standardwing.
Our first Sulawesi tour of the year recorded all of these and many more, with excellent and prolonged views of most specialties the norm.
Arguably the highlight on Sulawesi was the fantastic views of Maleo, an impressive pink-hued endemic megapode which is increasingly declining across the island. Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail, Red-bellied Pitta, Red-backed Thrush and Ochre-bellied Boobook were further highlights from a huge range of lowland species, then there was the quartet of endemic kingfishers; Green-backed and Lilac-cheeked Kingfishers were extremely obliging, the huge Great-billed Kingfisher impressive and the Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher was simply stunning.
Further delights awaited us in the Sulawesi mountains where we completed the endemic kingfishers with a stunning Scaly Kingfisher, and on the same day the less stunning, but equally rare and little known Matinan Flycatcher. Other highlights in the uplands included Purple-bearded Bee-eater – perhaps one of the most stunning of this exciting family, excellent views of Great Shortwing, Malia, the fascinating Sulawesi Thrush, Cinnabar Boobook and day-roosting Diabolical Nightjars.
Halamahera was equally exciting with the amazing Wallace’s Standardwing again voted “bird of the trip’ but close contenders included the stunning Ivory-breasted Pitta, Moluccan Owlet Nightjar and Moluccan King Parrot. Other clear highlights included Moluccan Scops Owl, Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove, Sombre Kingfisher, pleasing numbers of Chattering Lory, the rare Purple Dollarbird and a spot-lighted Moluccan Scrubfowl in the amazing setting of a volcanic-sand beach.
Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher and Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher, Tangkoko ©Rob Hutchinson
We departed from Manado mid-morning and took lunch overlooking an area of wet rice fields where a good variety of water-birds were seen including Cinnamon Bittern, White-browed Crake, Sacred Kingfisher and a perched Spotted Kestrel. In the late afternoon some of the group headed straight for some initial exploration of Gunung Ambang which started the endemic tally with a flyby White-bellied Imperial Pigeon, Large Sulawesi Hanging Parrot, Fiery-browed Myna and an impressive flock of at least 10 Yellow-billed Malkoha. Inside the forest we had our first sightings of Rusty-bellied Fantail and the spectacular Purple-bearded Bee-eater, and what a bird to make up John’s 6000th World bird!
The next morning began well before dawn as we headed again into the nearby mountains. Good views of two Sulawesi Masked Owls where had during the drive as they perched by the roadside. Arriving at Gunung Ambang, the pre-dawn owling produced only frustrating encounters with calling Cinnabar Boobook and Speckled Boobook, neither of which wanted to show, but which we would ultimately enjoy good views of later in the tour. The early start was nevertheless made worthwhile when in the early hours of daylight a Scaly Kingfisher was heard calling from far down a steep gully and was then spotted as he shot in and perched nearby. The bird sat and showed at close range, allowing us to appreciate the delicately barred underparts and blue head of Sulawesi most difficult endemic kingfisher. Elated we continued along the trail, soon locating the other major specialty of the area – a pair of singing, and extremely cooperative Matinan Flycatchers. This odd-looking flycatcher with its hooked bill and distinct facial-bristles is confined to the Minahassa peninsula of Sulawesi where it was known from just a handful of sightings before its discovery at Gunung Ambang. Other birds seen during the morning birding were a fascinating group of Malia, Yellow-vented Whistler, Sulawesi Leaf Warbler, Streak-headed Dark-eye, Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker, Cerulean Cuckooshrike, Sulawesi Drongo, Sulawesi Babbler, Island Flycatcher, Citrine Canary Flycatcher, Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater and finally a pair of Purple-bearded Bee-eaters were particularly appreciated by Tony and Pat in their exciting quest to see all the bee-eaters of the world.
At the forest edge we also found an immature Sulawesi Serpent Eagle and a Spotted Kestrel.
After lunch we continued to another area of lowland forest bisected by a road which allows for some easy roadside birding. Although the birds were not very vocal – typical of afternoons in the part of the world – we did find some good birds including a fine trio of Purple-winged Roller perched obligingly by the roadside and a smart Sulawesi Crested Myna behaving likewise. Another Yellow-billed Malkoha was logged and we recorded our first of many Knobbed Hornbills and Sulawesi Cicadabird.
As we made our way to our accommodation on the edge of the park, a short stop at a roadside marsh produced a flyover Black-crowned Night Heron and two Sunda Teal amoung a large gathering of Wandering Whistling Ducks, while an Isabelline Bush-hen was seen stalking along the road by the lead vehicle.
Yellow-billed Malkoha and Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail, Tangkoko ©Rob Hutchinson
The next morning we again departed early to be in prime position before dawn at the nesting grounds of the much-wanted Maleo, where we added close flight views of a Sulawesi Nightjar and perched studies of a Great-eared Nightjar. The Maleo is a huge pied megapode whose under-parts are variably tinged with pink during breeding conditions. They descend from the forest ridges at this historical communal breeding ground in order to incubate their eggs in the geothermal soils. Unfortunately they suffer greatly from predation – primarily from humans – and thus they have declined drastically in recent years although the sterling conservation efforts at this particular site have begun to reverse this effect. Unfortunately we were not lucky this morning and our long wait didn’t produce any Maleo but we were privileged to see three recently hatched juvenile Maleo raised in the protected hatchery, two of which we released into forest. Other good birds added included an obliging group Sulawesi Crested Myna, Black-billed Koel, Pale-blue Monarch and a perched Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail. The most important bird of the morning was an obliging Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove. This fruit-dove is a true lowland specialist and as such is greatly threatened by continued forest clearance; we only regularly recorded it in the Bogani Nani Wartabonearea so it was a great relief to find it so soon. We also saw several Black-naped Fruit Dove and plenty of Green Imperial Pigeons, here of the distinctive endemic race paulina sporting a distinctive chestnut nape shawl.
Some nearby roadside scanning found a surprise Brush Cuckoo, another obliging Purple-winged Roller, Ivory-backed Woodswallow and a distant Sulawesi Hawk Eagle. Three different roadside Buff-banded Rail also gave excellent views.
Our accommodation right on the edge of the forest has plenty of birding potential and some of the group continued birding here straight after lunch adding Superb Fruit Dove, Little Bronze Cuckoo, many White-necked Myna, White-rumped Cuckooshrikes, Spotted Harrier and nice views of Sulawesi Honey Buzzard and Sulawesi Hawk Eagle.
In the mid-afternoon we made our way by bamboo raft across the river and into the degraded forest patch opposite. The birding was very lively and we found large numbers of Grey-cheeked Green Pigeons in a large fruiting tree, abundant Finch-billed Myna and just in the nick of time, perched Yellow-breasted Racquet-tails and Ornate Lorikeets before the heavens opened and we beat a hasty retreat in torrential rain to finish again at the nearby marsh where we better views of Sunda Teal were obtained and several Black-backed Swamphens clambering up the reeds towards dusk.
Owling after dinner found a cute Sulawesi Scops Owl perched close to the accommodation.
The next morning was of course again spent at the Maleo site but this time with great success. Not long after dawn we heard the tell-tale wing beats of a Maleo flying up into the nearby trees and soon located not one but two of these impressive birds looking rather ungainly as they sat and clambered in the canopy. Not satisfied with this, they flew out across the forest clearing to an even more open viewing place where we could fully appreciate the pink underparts with matching pink bill, and bizarre head structure comprising bare facial skin, a large open ear-hole and a bulbous ‘helmet’ – truly a unique bird which deserves all our protection.
With our main target secured we again headed to our favourite area of roadside forest nearby adding a small party of Bay Coucal, brief Sulawesi Triller, good views of Sulawesi Honey Buzzard, Sulawesi Hawk Eagle and a perched Sulawesi Serpent Eagle before it was time to head off on the long journey to Tangkoko at the extreme north-east point of the Minahassa peninsula. Breaking the journey with a delicious seafood meal near Manado we arrived at the approach road to Tangkoko just as birding activity was picking up again in the later afternoon cool and we added good views of Sulawesi Triller along with Sulawesi Cicadabird and Pale Blue Monarch. An excellent vantage point over a nearby valley gave good views of another Purple-winged Roller, Sulawesi Black Pigeon and a comical group of toucan-like Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills. Continuing onwards towards our accommodation just before dusk we were surprised to find our first Green-backed Kingfisher perched obligingly for all in the middle of the road!
Ochre-bellied Boobook and Purple-winged Roller ©Rob Hutchinson
After a relatively relaxed breakfast the next morning we headed out on foot at dawn to explore the adjacent Tangkoko National Park. In the more open grassland areas we finally found Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeons, good views of Ornate Lorikeets, more Buff-banded Rails, many Rainbow Bee-eaters and White-rumped Cuckooshrikes before heading into the forest where our skilled local guides set about finding all the local specialties for us to enjoy.
We started very well with a calling Red-bellied Pitta which once located, perched on a favourite log on the forest floor, just showed and showed for as long as we cared to watch, frequently calling for added entertainment. Particular appreciated by Brian as this was his landmark 6000th world bird.
Continuing into the forest we soon found a Lilac-cheeked Kingfishers followed by a Green-backed Kingfisher, both of which gave stunning views. They posed, seemingly unaware of our presence and pleased all the photographers with an impeccable performance.
Next was a pair of Tabon Scrubfowls en route to a territory of Red-backed Thrush which again were located quickly but were rather skittish, covering a large area and proving quite elusive although everyone did eventually enjoyed some good views. Nearby we were happy to find that the regular day-roosting Ochre-bellied Boobooks were in residence and we had fantastic, ‘scope filling views - who could forget those amazing spiky yellow legs?!
In predictably laidback fashion it wasn’t long before we logged our last major target of the morning – this time a Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher, perched at close range for us to appreciate ever plumage details including lilac whiskers and iridescent blue spangles adorning the crown. What a Jem!
We again hit the forest in the afternoon adding yet more species including great views of Pied Cuckooshrike – our last major lowland endemic, and great perched views of Yellow-breasted Racquet-tails giving their strange bugling and squeaky-toy calls. Golden-mantled Racquet-tails were not as obliging as they screeched overhead but a female Blue-backed Parrot did perch nicely as did yet another Purple-winged Roller. In the late afternoon we settled down close to the sleeping tree of one the world’s most endearing mammals, the Spectral Tarsier. We didn’t have to wait long for them to appear and great views were had of these tiny creatures bouncing around from branch to branch in search of insects, not surprisingly always a tour highlight! We finished the day with our first Ashy Woodpecker of the tour, but with more to follow.
With all major targets seen we set out the next morning we set out to check a recent roost tree of the rare Minahassa Owl. On route a Spot-tailed Goshawk was heard calling and responded very well to playback, perching close by and from all angles allowing great studies. We also recorded excellent numbers of both Yellow-billed Malkoha and Ashy Woodpecker, totaling more than 20 malkoha and an incredible 10 woodpeckers! The owl roost sadly drew a blank so we headed again to look for Red-backed Thrush which was this time much more successful with at least three birds obliging, even sitting long enough for telescope views on some occasions.
On the walk back to the lodge a Stephan’s Dove flushed from the forest floor was relocated perched nearby and scoped to perfection.
In the afternoon we took boats out along the picturesque coastline to the north, making our first stop at the nest cave of a pair of Sulawesi Masked Owls, one of which gave nice views perched on the nearby cliff-face. An impressive Great-billed Heron roosting amoung the Pacific Reef Egrets on the fishing traps offshore allowed a close approach before we headed to a nearby mangrove channel. By paddling slowly along the mangrove river we had nice views of at least two huge Great-billed Kingfishers.
Grey-tailed Tattler and Lesser Sand Plover were new and a large flock of Pied Imperial Pigeons passed overhead just before dusk.
The next morning allowed a little early morning birding time before departure and we used this wisely to add Ruddy Kingfisher to our tally, on the river close to the lodge. Roadside stops on the way to the airport added Blue-backed Parrot and close to the airport itself several Java Sparrows nesting under the eves of a roadside house -sadly this fast declining species is assumed to be introduced into Sulawesi.
Our flight to Ternate was thankfully on time and we were soon landed on this volcanic island then quickly transferred by speedboat across the open water to the small town of Sidangoli on the west coast of Halmahera, adding a brief Bulwer’s Petrel, Greater Crested Tern and a close adult male Great Frigatebird during the crossing. Keen to begin our birding in this new avifaunal region east of Weber’s Line we spent the late afternoon at a productive viewpoint above Sidangoli. Here we added some impressive Gurney’s Eagles soaring overhead, great views of the widespread Grey-headed Fruit Dove, many Blyth’s Hornbills and several parrots including Violet-necked Lory, Eclectus Parrot, Red-cheeked Parrot and stunning White Cockatoo.
Red-bellied Pitta and Red-backed Thrush, Tangkoko ©Rob Hutchinson
We departed very early next morning (or was it better described as late evening?) for our eagerly anticipated visit to a lekking ground of the Wallace’s Standardwing, a spectacular bird-of-paradise endemic to Halmahera and a few surrounding small islands. Soon after setting off a Dusky Scrubfowl was located roosting on an open branch right above the trail before we slowly picked our way through the dark forest and before dawn we were waiting right below the Standardwing display tree. As the sky began to lighten a chorus of harsh, rasping calls heralded the appearance of the Standardwings and in ever improving light we enjoyed great views of a male in a nearby tree as he periodically performed with breast shields erect and the white ‘standards’ waved aloft, occasionally leaping high above the canopy before parachuting back down to his display perch. The performance was truly amazing and we all agreed that the spectacle was well worth the hot and sweaty trek through the rainforest (although most agreed it would be a once in a lifetime experience!). After a celebratory picnic breakfast we made our way slowing back narrowly missing out on satisfactory views of Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove which twice flew by but refused to perch. A Sombre Kingfisher was more obliging and we had a couple of good views of this bulky forest kingfisher. A small party of Common Paradise Kingfisher also eventually showed to all after giving us the runaround, another Dusky Scrubfowl showed briefly and our first White-streaked Friarbird, Shining Flycatcher, Metallic Starling and Grey-throated Goshawk were also logged.
After lunch we drove northwards along the east coast of Halmahera’s upper arm to the town of Tobelo. After dinner we set off north again on another adventure in search of Moluccan Scrubfowl. This is another megapode which, like the Maleo, descends from the forest in order to lay its eggs at traditional nesting grounds. In this case however the nesting grounds are volcanic sand beaches and so we found ourselves in the amazing settings of the beach after traversing the protective river mouth by dug-out canoe to the found of “chonking” Large-tailed Nightjars. Fortunately the scrubfowls proved incredibly cooperative on this occasion so that within 5 minutes of arriving we were enjoying this attractively marked scrubfowl as it froze in our spotlight beam. Grateful not to endure a long wait at the end of a long day we made our way back across the river in our canoes and finished the day with a menacing Moluccan Scops Owl staring down at us from his chosen coconut tree.
Stephan’s Dove and Spot-tailed Goshawk, Tangkoko ©Rob Hutchinson
After a relatively late breakfast the next morning (it was actually daylight!) we drove south to the small fishing village of Daru where all our food and drink provisions for our stay at Foli were loaded onto our speedboat and we set off for the short trip across the bay. Some good numbers of terns included a single Aleutian Tern and Brown Booby which passed close by the road but didn’t hang around.
Upon arrival we learnt that our allocated vehicle had problems reaching the village on the atrocious roads so in the afternoon we set out on foot along the now disused logging road and found our first Moluccan endemics including Blue-capped Fruit Dove, Red-flanked Lorikeet, Great-billed Parrot, Moluccan Cuckooshrike, White-bellied Cuckooshrike, Common Cicadabird, Rufous-bellied Triller, Slaty Flycatcher, Dusky Honeyeater and Cream-throated White-eye.
The next morning we again set out on foot and before long we heard the characteristic screaming call of a Moluccan Owlet Nightjar. Fortunately this was a very responsive individual and just a brief blast of playback was enough to bring it swooping into a nearby tree where we enjoyed stunning views of this wide-mouthed creature with its piercing orange eyes and hairy facial bristles – an amazing bird and a fitting one for David’s 7000th world bird. At this point we were relieved to find that our 4wd vehicle had final joined us and we all jumped aboard to head further along the logging road into the prime birding areas.
A rare sighting of Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk was amazingly followed by another later in the day with an Oriental Hobby and nice perched views of Pacific Baza completing a good raptor day. Our first Moluccan Imperial Pigeon and Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon were found and we enjoyed a veritable parrot bonanza with 9 species of psittacidae headed by six of the increasingly rare Chattering Lory, and 3 gorgeous Moluccan King Parrots. Blue-and-white Kingfishers were twice seen perched by the roadside. Other new birds today included White-naped Monarch, Halmahera Cuckooshrike, Dusky-brown Oriole and Halmahera Flowerpecker, Moluccan Starling, Drab Whistler, our first Paradise Crow (rather disappointing for a bird of paradise!) and Long-billed Crow with its perpetually open bill. After heavy rain in the afternoon great views were had of several cumbersome Goliath Coucals drying their huge feathers.
We set out the next day determined to find Ivory-breasted Pitta but the first good bird of the day was a Dusky Scrubfowl caught on the logging road which ran ‘headless chicken’ style in front of the vehicle for quite some distance before deciding the best way of escape was to fly off into the forest!
As we birded back along the logging road many good birds appeared including our first Moustached Treeswift, Superb Fruit Dove, several Paradise Crows and a most welcome female Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove.
Finally one of the regular pitta spots produced a calling bird but it remained steadfastly hidden in the forest under-story before finally it moved, but only one or two of the group glimpsed it crossing the trail. We again waited as it called stationary and unseen from the thick under-story. Then as Rob tried to push the bird towards the group a pair of Dusky Scrubfowl flushed noisily from the forest probably spooking the pitta which moved into just the right place for almost the whole group to get good views of this large pied pitta with crimson and black belly-stripe and turquoise wing feathers. After much hard work tracking this bird, we eventually relocated it and enjoyed another excellent close views much to everyone’s relief.
Highlight of the afternoon was an obliging White-naped Monarch which finally gave good views to the whole group after an all too brief showing the previous day.
Green-backed Kingfisher, Sulawesi and Goliath Coucal, Halmahera ©Rob Hutchinson
On our final morning with almost every major target seen we decided on a stake-out at a good view point near to where we have previously recorded the rare Purple Dollarbird. While waiting we again saw Halmahera Flowerpecker and had great views of White-streaked Friarbird.
Then right on cue a Common Dollarbird appeared over the forested ridge opposite our viewpoint and within minutes there were at least half a dozen Dollarbirds hawking and tumbling in the skies and among them we found at least one Purple Dollarbird, with scope views allowing the wholly deep purple plumage with no contrast to be seen. We also enjoyed our best views yet of Moustached Treeswift, a perched Oriental Hobby and Grey-throated Goshawk.
After lunch it was time to make the boat journey back across the bay to Daru which produced both Whiskered and Roseate amoung the tern congregations. Driving back to Sidangoli we were grateful that the torrential rain en route had come at a time when it didn’t interrupt our birding time.
A change to our flight schedules gave us an extra morning around Sidangoli which we invested in an unsuccessful search for the strangely elusive Halmahera Boobook although another Moluccan Scops Owl was spotlighted. The highlight was stunning telescope views of a Common Paradise Kingfisher. As we departed Sidangoli we quickly located a pair of bulky, turquoise and white Beach Kingfishers perched high in a dead mangrove tree which gave great looks then the boat journey back across the channel to Ternate gave our first Red-necked Phalaropes bobbing on the glassy surface and a Bulwer’s Petrel lumbering across close in front of the boat.
Our flight from Ternate to Makassar back in Sulawesi was a little delayed so there was no time for any late afternoon birding but the fine seafood dinner was an excellent consolation and we were very amused at being served Bintang Beer from a teapot, a sign of respect during Ramadan, the Muslim period of fasting.
The following morning we headed to the limestone Karst forest of Karaenta. Our main target here was the localized Black-ringed White-eye which was fortunately one of the first birds we saw in the morning. Exploring the forest along the rather busy road we found further treats like Piping Crow, Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill (here the race sanfordi showing black bars at the bill base), Golden-mantled Racquet-tail (flying as usual!), Blue-backed Parrot and Crimson Sunbird.
The nearby agricultural fields held our first White-shouldered Triller, Blue-tailed Bee-eater and the long-anticipated Pied Bushchat.
On the way back to Makassar we made a stop at the nearby fishponds which hosted a range of interesting shorebirds headed by good numbers of Javan Plovers, a single Sharp-tailed Sandpiper and several Rufous Night Herons. A Savanna nightjar gave good views roosting quietly at the side of the track.
Our late afternoon flight left on time and we arrived in Palu where we enjoyed yet another delicious seafood feast before making the drive into the extensive Lore Lindu National Park and arrived in the evening at our rustic guesthouse at Wuasa village in the Napu Valley.
At dawn the next morning we were enjoying a picnic breakfast as the chorus of birdsong brought the montane forests to life. As the light improved birds were all around and we quickly set about adding new endemics. Blue-fronted Flycatchers gave good close views as did the often-elusive Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater. Active mixed flocks in the canopy included Mountain and Black-fronted White-eye, Golden-bellied Gerygone, Streak-headed Dark-eye, Yellow-vented Whistler, Rusty-bellied Fantail, Citrine Canary Flycatcher, Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker, Cerulean Cuckooshrike and best of all delightful Pygmy Cuckooshrikes. Malia was not new but we had the best views yet and also noted that the race here – stresemanni – has chestnut wings, rather than the yellow-green wings of the previous birds at Gunung Ambang.
Wallace’s Standardwing and Moluccan Owlet Nightjar, Halmahera © Rob Hutchinson
During all this commotion the slow mournful song drew attention and with careful positioning we were soon all enjoying amazing close views of a pair of these elusive ground-dwellers as they broke their usual shy habits to sit and pose in full view.
In the afternoon we birded the lower sections of the Napu valley. Here we found Lemon-bellied White-eye, Gould’s Bronze Cuckoo and enjoyed great views of several Ivory-backed Woodswallows. We again saw a group of three Purple-winged Rollers perched conspicuously, making an amazing total of 10 individuals during the tour (this species is sometimes tricky to find!).
We departed early the next morning for our long-anticipated visit to the famous Anaso track. This track was formerly a logging road accessing the heart of the park. It has been disused for several years now but still allows access to the higher reaches of the mountains where some of the parks biggest specialties lurch. The track is now heavily eroded and only the combination of our 4wd vehicles and experienced drivers allowed us to scale the road and even then, only as far as a broken bridge at the midway point. From here we hiked up the mountain, our aim to reach a spot that has been regular in recent years for the rare Geomalia. The walk produced interesting birds including great views of Red-eared Fruit Doves in a fruiting tree, joined by an equally attractive pair of Superb Fruit Doves. Unfortunately upon arrival we found this regular spot heavily disturbed by a team researching Pygmy Tarsiers and it wasn’t therefore a surprise that Geomalia were seen. This area did however produce new birds in the form of Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater, lethargic Yellow-flanked Whistlers (now though to be more closely related to Waxwings than to whistlers!), Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker and some large groups of flyover Golden-mantled Racquet-tails.
On the walk down the mountain a delightful pair of Diabolical Nightjars were found at a regular roost spot and allowed quite amazing close views. Since their rediscovery less than 10 years ago this species has proven to be surprisingly common here.
The afternoon was again spent lower down in the Sedoa valley where we found a smart male Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher, located thanks to its sweet, melodic song, and our first Little Pied Flycatchers were noted. Along the roadside we finally obtained satisfactory perched views of Yellow-and-green Lorikeets after endless high speed flybys, Sulawesi Swiftlet was also new and we found a fantastic fruiting tree full of Knobbed Hornbills but despite careful scrutiny of the White-bellied Imperial Pigeons we didn’t located any of their rarer Grey-headed cousins.
Moluccan Scops Owl and Moluccan Scrubfowl, Halmahera ©Rob Hutchinson
Owling predawn the next morning gave excellent views of a pair of Cinnabar Boobooks, a species described as new to science as recently as 1999 and only confirmed within Lore Lindu in the last couple of years!
The next morning we tried again at the Geomalia spot without success although we did add a Mountain Serin perched in nearby trees followed by two flyby birds and a Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler was finally seen by all. Amazingly as we walked back down the mountain a Geomalia emerged right in front of us on the road before hoping across the road and out of sight into the mossy forest. Unfortunately given the brevity of the view, only Rob at the head of the group had good looks and the few people behind only glimpses. A search of the nearby forest didn’t relocate the bird and we were left frustrated again. The regular Diabolical Nightjars were again present and at least 8 Purple-bearded Bee-eaters were seen offering some good photographic opportunities.
Highlights of our afternoon in the lower valleys were a smart Sulawesi Serpent Eagle perched by the roadside and Purple Needletails zooming overhead.
Our last full day began again back down in the lower montane forests and what a great start when a distinctive thrush-like song due our attention to a Sulawesi Thrush which after some tense moments flew out across the road and into plain view before being joined by two more individuals which gave great looks as the fed on berries nearby. Everyone was surprised to find that the birds behaved much more like babblers than thrushes and indeed the true affinities of this fascinating species remain to be confirmed. On the forest trails we again had great views of Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater and finally after so much effort we found a vocalizing Maroon-backed Whistler which after some hard work gave everyone in the group great looks.
After lunch in back in Wuasa we made another attempt to locate Grey-headed Imperial Pigeons but again without success. Three Gould’s Bronze Cuckoo’s were seen along with some stunning Crimson Sunbirds.
On our last morning we opted for a finally try at the new Geomalia spot but despite a patient wait we had to admit defeat although another Mountain Serin was seen. After a final lunch in Wuasa we headed back towards Wuasa stopping for a Sulawesi Serpent Eagle before making a final birding stop on the outskirts at the Olobajo river. Here we found an amazing abundance of birds, the area teaming with bee-eaters, trillers, munias and others.
Among the commoner Black-faced and Black-headed Munias we found several striking Pale-headed Munia, excellent views of White-shouldered Triller and some bashing around in the grassy margins found several Savanna Nightjars, Red-backed and Barred Buttonquail.
Then it was time to head into Palu and finally enjoy the luxury of a fine hotel, particularly the warm showers!
Common Paradise Kingfisher and Chattering Lory, Halmahera ©Rob Hutchinson
Sulawesi Thrush and Great Shortwing, Lore Lindu ©Rob Hutchinson
Diabolical Nightjar and Ivory-backed Wood-swallow, Lore Lindu ©Rob Hutchinson
Our total of 274 species recorded included four species heard only.
Click here to view the Systematic Bird List
Click here to download the report as a pdf
For further information on our tours to Sulawesi and Halmahera please contact us via e-mail or follow the links for our scheduled departure tours, please click here.
Purple-bearded Bee-eater, Lore Lindu, Sulawesi ©Rob Hutchinson/Birdtour Asia
