Sumatra and Java Custom tour

31st May - 21st June 2008

Leader: James Eaton

Participants: Andy Deighton, Martin Kennewell,
Ian Merrill and Volkert van der Williger

Oriental Bay Owl, Way Kambas © Tour participant Ian Merrill

A total of 350 species were recorded including 17 heard only on this successful three-week tour of Sumatra and Java. We began the tour in the lowland rainforest at Way Kambas, encountering a range of difficult species, including particularly memorable encounters with a White-winged Wood Duck flying in to roost at a secluded forested swamp before being spotlighted, good numbers of Cinnamon-headed Green Pigeons, dazzling Banded Pittas, Rufous-collared Kingfisher, and Malaysian Hawk Cuckoo. As usual much attention here was paid to the birds of the night. Through determination and hard work we had wonderful close encounters with the rare Bonaparte’s Nightjar, Large, Gould’s and brief Sunda Frogmouths, Reddish and Sunda Scops Owls and best of all, ‘walk-away’ views of Oriental Bay Owl enjoyed for 40 minutes as it clung to a small vine just meters away. We then flew north to the huge Kerinci-Sablat National Park. Mount Kerinci typically made us work hard for its jewels but persistence paid off with great views of a trail hugging Schneider’s Pitta, several memorable moments with a hairy-faced Sumatran Frogmouth, male Salvadori’s Pheasant, Sumatran Trogon, both Sumatran and Rusty-breasted Wren Babblers, amazing looks at a feeding Red-billed Partridge and even Mountain Scops Owl! Birding at lower elevations along the Tapan Road produced a whole range of new species. As we descended this wonderfully forested road we found an assortment of endemics including Sumatran Treepie, Sumatran Drongo, 3 species of bulbul (of the 20 recorded on tour), Sumatran and Blue-masked Leafbirds and the superb Graceful Pitta eventually putting on a fine performance. Loads of other great species included a pair of Helmeted Hornbills gliding in to feed directly overhead and near-endemic Sumatran Green Pigeons and Sunda Forktails.
Our Java leg proved equally successful. The usual exciting morning dash round Carita was as hoped – Javan Frogmouth, Javan Banded Pitta, Javan Tit Babbler, Javan Owlet and Black-banded Barbet being just the highlights. Gunung Halimun was as enjoyable as usual: Javan Trogons, plenty of White-breasted Babbler, Javan Hawk Eagle, Pale Blue Flycatcher, ‘Javan’ Leafbird and several close views of Spotted Crocia. Mount Gede had plenty of highlights; most notable were Javan Cochoa, just coming into their breeding season they were particularly showy as were striking Pink-headed Fruit Doves and best of all the rarely-seen Javan Scops Owl clinging to a sapling in Bay Owl-like manner. Our final morning produced 3 endangered species; Javan Coucal and singing Black-winged Starlings at Muara Angke, followed by a cross country flight a small colony of Java Sparrows on the fabled Prambanan Temples.
After all that we should not forget about the equal tour highlights – the mammals! We had amazing views of three species of gibbon; Agile, Javan and Siamang. Sumatran Serow, Leopard Cat, Prevost’s Squirrel, Binturong, 3 species of civet and an Indonesian Mountain Weasel that just loved Andy’s squeaking!

Javan White-eye © James Eaton White-capped Munia © James Eaton

With Martin arriving a day ahead of the group we headed east of Jakarta to a rarely visited area along the north Java coast which was one of the last known refuges of the presumed extinct Javan Lapwing. Though we were out of luck with the lapwing the open rice-fields were full of another increasingly rare species, White-capped Munia along with the declining Javan Munia. Moving towards a line of mangroves that border a nearby channel our main target was soon under the belt as some high-pitched twittering soon had us focussed on a party of the mangrove loving Javan White-eye. Over the course of the morning we had several good views of this bright sprite moving quickly through the extensive mangroves that protect the surround shrimp ponds. Walking back through the Shrimp ponds several Javan Plovers scampered away and we even found a nest next to the footpath containing two eggs.

With everyone happily arrived in Jakarta by the evening we flew over the Sunda Straits early the next morning and swiftly made our way to the south-eastern tip of Sumatra to Way Kambas National Park, one of the few patches of lowland forest left on this huge island. We spent three full days walking along different sections of the forested road that bisects the park, amassing an impressive list of scarce sundaic species. Babblers are abundant in the forest and we were fortunate to encounter a couple of good feeding flocks containing numerous species, including manic Chestnut-rumped Babbler, riverine-loving White-chested Babbler, Black-capped Babblers creeping along the forest floor while waiting for Banded Pitta, and fine views of displaying Fluffy-backed Tit Babblers, watched at close range as they inflated their blue throat pouch and raised their ‘fluffy-backs’ while calling profusely to one another.
Most of the Sunda specialities were located calling from the roadside forest; a super-charged Rufous-collared Kingfisher was pulled out to the roadside in next to no time, calling profusely in the spotlight at dawn, Rufous-backed Kingfishers were noticeably active during our stay, including a pair that kept returning to the roadside giving amazing perched views. The trogons; Scarlet-rumped, Diard’s and Red-naped all performed well, a pair of Rufous-tailed Shama sang from open perches, Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher and Rufous-winged Philentoma did likewise. Late one morning, a random play of the tape was rudely interrupted as a Malaysian Hawk Cuckoo flew straight in to investigate, a real bonus of a bird. Of course the broadbills were always a constant source of amusement with cracking views of all of them; Green, Dusky, Black-and-Red, Banded and Black-and-yellow. One of everyone’s favourites, including the leaders, is of course the Banded Pitta, and we weren’t disappointed on this tour with fine views of 2 males, the last bird even posing unobscured on a fallen log for well over 5 minutes as he kept looking round searching for the intruder into his territory.
Wandering through the swamp forest in the late afternoon led us to a large open swamp. As we waited by the edge Sambar Deer fed unconcerned on the opposite side, Lesser Adjutants sat aloft in nearby trees, a Grey-headed Fish Eagle flew past and several flocks of the universally rare Cinnamon-headed Green Pigeon sat out on open snags. As the light began to fade a distant quack quack quack alerted us to the presence of a White-winged Duck somewhere… amazingly Martin located a big white blob in a tree just as the light was going, a quick dash over and a shine of the spotlight revealed the duck roosting in all its beauty perched 30 meters up head on.
Many other scarce species were encountered during our stay; both Wrinkled and Bushy-crested Hornbills put in appearances along with the vocally-impressive Black Magpie. Eight species of woodpecker included the gigantic and prehistoric-looking White-bellied Woodpecker. Red-crowned and Brown Barbets were often the forerunners in the frugivores families, which included a plethora of bulbuls, Dark-throated Oriole, Lesser Cuckooshrike and Asian Fairy Bluebirds. Crested Fireback, Red Junglefowl, Black-thighed Falconet, Blue-rumped Parrot, Banded Bay Cuckoo, Fiery Minivet, Green Iora and Slender-billed Crow were the other notables.

Sumatran Frogmouth, Gunung Kerinci Large Frogmouth, Way Kambas
© Tour participant Ian Merrill © Tour participant Ian Merrill

Way Kambas is renowned for its high-density of night-birds and putting in the time more than reaped the rewards we deserved. The notable highlights started on our first session as eerie notes emanating from the forest led us straight to an Oriental Bay Owl clinging onto a hanging vine, eventually he allowed us to approach within just a few meter over the next 40 minutes until the cameras had more than their fill, giving walk away views, great start! Concentrating on a different species each session gave us a new species each time and the huge Large Frogmouth was next as a pair flew straight in with over the next hour alternating between this pair sitting side by side and a pair of Brown Boobooks nearby. The biggest prize of the park is Bonaparte’s Nightjar, which we saw on two evenings - we were even able to scope this bird, the rarest nightjar in south-east Asia. Gould’s Frogmouth was next up, easily found as he called continually from the sub-canopy, though some of us had to make do with flight views of Sunda Frogmouth as one was watched flying in above us only to disappear in the canopy, so typical of this difficult species. Finally a roadside Sunda Scops Owl was a surprise find, calling at eye-level as we watched from the comfort of our vehicle!

Bidding farewell to this bird-filled forest we connected with our flight back to Jakarta, then after a lunch and some nearby birding which produced Spotted Kestrel, Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker, Small Blue Kingfisher, Indonesian Collared Dove (a certain split from the Philippine race) and Javan Pond Heron, we flew back to Sumatra (nothing is simple in Indonesia!), but this time to Padang situated half way up the west coast, via an unexpected stop for over an hour in Pekanbaru (wherever that is!) due to bad weather.

After a comfortable night in Padang we drove south-east along the Barisan Range into the massive Kerinci-Sablat National Park until we reached our friendly homestay in time for a late lunch at the base of Mt Kerinci, famed as the endemic hotspot of Sumatra. As expected, birding was hard going at times and we really had to work hard for our birds here. Our first afternoon was a predominately rain-soaked one with just one bird being seen - a male Salvadori’s Pheasants, our only one during our stay. Fortunately these pheasants get confused easily so it dilly-dallied long enough for us all to get on him before he vanished further into the undergrowth.
Our first full day on the mountain was thwarted by the lasting effects of a huge thunderstorm passing through the area and we all got thoroughly soaked by late morning. Before the rains dampened proceedings a few goodies stopped our progress on the way up, notably a couple of striking Spot-necked Babblers. With the onset of more bad weather we changed our itinerary round, a late afternoon visit to a nearby waterfall produced a distant pair of Sunda Forktail before a huge flock numbering up to 100 of aptly named Giant Swiftlets flew in and around us before dusk We then drove south to spend 3 nights at the bustling town of Sungai Penuh.

Rufous-vented Niltava, Gunung Kerinci Rhinoceros Hornbill, Bukit Tapan
© Ian Merrill © James Eaton

For two full days we birded the wonderful road cutting through beautiful forest that winds its way down alongside the Tapan River. We birded from 1200m all the way down to 650m, searching for the famed feeding flocks, however it was hard going at times as most species, especially bulbuls, appeared to be breeding, breaking up the flocks and keeping things more quiet than usual. Starting from the top; Sumatran Treepie kicked off the endemics, calling raucously from the canopy; a Sumatran Trogon perched quietly at the roadside, Sumatran Green Pigeon was next with fantastic eye-level views of a bird feeding alongside Cream-striped and Spot-necked Bulbuls. Sumatran Leafbird (split from Gold-fronted) was a good early find though Blue-masked Leafbird would keep us waiting until the following morning when we found several feeding on roadside flowers. Fulvous-chested Jungle Flycatcher helpfully sang from the same perch as our previous tours last year, while the flowering trees provided home to Spectacled Laughingthrushes, Black and Crimson Oriole, numerous Fire-tufted and Black-browed Barbets. Eventually it was time to search for the roads prize jewel, though it took much longer than usual and proved to be third time lucky as we finally got brilliant views of a calling Graceful Pitta, red belly glowing in the dark undergrowth.

With the usual feeding flocks seemingly dispersed for breeding we had to work that little bit harder for many of the birds, though eventually we came across one flock with most of the hoped-for species; Black Laughingthrushes led the party across the road, finally being followed by the expected Sumatran Drongo, Maroon Woodpecker, Greater Yellownape, Common Green Magpie and Long-tailed Broadbill, the latter species noticeably common with many family parties along the roadside.

A family that dominates the Sumatran foothills is the hornbills, and we were not to be disappointed as several groups of Bushy-crested noisily flew around, a graceful pair of Rhinoceros made a large fruiting fig tree their home for our two days and the most spectacular of the lot, Helmeted Hornbill provided a wonderful sight as a pair glided in from afar to land above our heads while we were having our roadside lunch.
Other species enjoyed on our walk downhill included a vocal Maroon-breasted Philentoma, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Spectacled Spiderhunter, Red-throated and Golden-whiskered Barbets, Hill Prinia, Blue-winged Leafbird, Scaly-breasted, Cinereous and Grey-bellied Bulbuls, Sunda Cuckooshrike, Red-headed Trogon, Giant Swiftlet, Red-billed Malkoha, Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, Barred Cuckoo Dove and Little Cuckoo Dove.

We returned to Mount Kerinci for the remaining 4 days on Sumatra, and thankfully the weather was rather kinder this time with sunny, blue skies for the majority of the time. Although June is not the optimum month for the rare Sumatran Cochoa, we still trekked up each day to the better areas for the species in the vain hope of a high-pitched whistle. Despite the omission we did well once again; Rufous-vented Niltava performed to perfection singing from a beautiful mossy-perch, four species of Wren Babbler included the islands two endemics –the bold Rusty-breasted the finest songster on the mountain and the kiwi-like Sumatran singing at close range on two dates as well as close – inaddition to prolonged views of both Pygmy and Eye-browed Wren Babblers. We even bumped into a tick for the leader in the form of a vocal pair of Red-billed Partridge, though it took a couple of attempts over the 4 days before we all nailed this most beautiful of game birds, finding a single bird rustling in the leaf-litter, even allowing for 10 minutes worth of video.
The species everyone so craves from the mountain – Schneider’s Pitta – typically gave us the run-around. Three times the leader frustratingly had it scamper off the trail ahead before finally, on the last morning a male was found bounding along the forest trail ahead of us where it stayed long enough for everyone to get their bins on him as he hopped up onto a log and turned side-on before jumping into the thick, lush understory – finally allowing handshakes and rejoice to replace the tip-toeing and nail-biting!

Sunda Forktail, Bukit Tapan Javan Scops Owl, Gunung Gede
© James Eaton © James Eaton

Our night time forays were generally productive with several sessions producing the splendid Sumatran Frogmouth, even giving us a full-frontal, showing off his mouth-filled face, complete with inch long bristles scattered all over it. Salvadori’s Nightjar fluttered back and forth overhead on two occasions, though once shortly before dusk he even dropped down from the canopy to perch just overhead – this would have been made all the more memorable had we had a spotlight! Unfortunately Rajah Scops Owl was just about silent during our stay but we did find an unusually co-operative Mountain Scops Owl calling from an open perch and the final ‘night-bird’ of our stay, the vocally distinct Sumatran Owlet (from Collared) was twice found higher up the mountain during the daytime.

There were many other highlights of the 4 days, including Sumatran Trogons which put on some great, close range performances, Sunda Blue Robin and Lesser Shortwing feeding on and around the trails, managing to get the heartbeats racing with their pitta-like qualities, and the endemic whistling thrush duo; the common arboreal Shiny and the shy, chestnut-winged Sumatran Whistling Thrush. Blyth’s Hawk Eagle, Black Eagle and Wreathed Hornbills showed that it is always worth putting an eye to the sky.
Even though feeding flocks were scarce we still bumped into some cracking goggle-eyed Blue Nuthatch, flocks of Sunda Minivet, Sunda Warbler, Mountain Leaf Warbler, Mountain White-eye higher up the mountain and just when we thought we had dipped, a pair of Sumatran (Sunda) Bulbuls turned up! Shying away from the flocks a pair of Large Niltava quietly sang away and White-browed Shortwing, of yet another vocally distinct taxon, sang away just feet from us.

Eventually it was time to leave this mighty island and head back to the drier and more heavily populated island of Java, ready for a bagful of new endemics. En-route to the coastal town of Carita we stopped at an area of shrimp ponds for Javan Plover, found with ease and including a pair with a recently fledged youngster. The surrounding scrub held a wintering Horsfield’s Bronze Cuckoo (we are south of the Equator here!) and many Savanna Nightjars, calling and flying all around us in the heat of the day along with numbers of the beautiful Small Blue Kingfisher.
Arriving at Carita at dusk we jumped out of the car to be greeted by a Leopard Cat which sat quietly in the undergrowth before slowly walking back along the road. We also arrived just in time for a couple of Large-tailed Nightjars fluttering around the canopy before the cries of a close Javan Frogmouth turned our attentions to this furry little creature as soon enough he was sitting overhead and fluttering in the spotlight feeding for insects. This endemic taxon is vocally distinct and isolated from the mainland population so best considered an endemic split from Blyth’s and Palawan Frogmouths. We returned back the following morning for a manic dash around the tiny patch of forest that still holds the majority of Java’s lowland endemics. Following another closer Javan Frogmouth we entered the forest. First up was the hugely distinctive, yellow-banded ‘Javan’ Banded Pitta though he proved difficult to see in the lush undergrowth and some of us would have to wait for a second more obliging bird later in the morning. Much to our surprise a pair of Javan Owlet started calling and the birds were soon flying around us, perching several times momentarily before flying uphill and away from the trail, a real bonus after missing this species here last year. Black-naped Fruit Doves proved tricky as they flew in and out of a fruiting tree at dawn, disappearing in the gloom and we could only manage brief views of a wary male later in the morning. Two other frugivores proved more obliging, the endemic Black-banded Barbet perched overhead and a smart Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon posed in the telescope. Olive-backed Tailorbird soon showed , revealing their presence as they chirped away at arms length. Heading out of the forest a male Javan Sunbird turned up in his favoured tangle and following up some chonking took us to a party of the rather ‘subtle’ Javan Tit Babbler feeding in a flowering tree along with a small feeding flock containing Black-winged Flycatcher Shrike, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha and displaying Brown-throated Sunbird.

A long drive north, east, south and finally west saw us arrive at Gunung Halimun National Park as dusk began to settle. We had two nights to enjoy the wonderful forest that still remains inside this large national park. Our first morning provided us with a large feeding flocks containing an array of endemics; from the common and subtle Javan Fulvetta to the rare and canopy dwelling Spotted Crocia, and inconspicuous Javan Trogon in the understory in the late afternoon. Two welcome early additions to our list, and we would continue to regularly encounter small parties of crocia and a further trogon the following morning. Searching through the feeding flocks would provide us with the bulk of our hoped-for endemics. Carefully picking our way through them we encountered White-breasted Babblers several times and other endemics included Javan Dark-eye, more Javan Sunbirds, Crescent-chested Babbler, Pygmy Tit, Javan Bulbul (previously considered the same species as Sumatran under the collective name Sunda Bulbul) and ‘Javan’ Leafbird (split from the markedly different Blue-winged from Southeast Asia, lacking the yellow-hood and blue-wing!) though White-bellied Fantails were obviously breeding as all we could manage was a brief dull juvenile and a very brief adult. It wasn’t just the flocks that kept us busy. Keeping our eyes to the skies soon revealed the rare Javan Hawk-Eagle as two pairs and a youngster circled distantly from our vantage point. Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon and Giant Swiftlets were noticeably conspicuous with particularly fine perched views of the former. While the dense understory held parties of striking, though ever elusive, White-bibbed Babbler, the canopy revealed both Brown-throated and Flame-fronted Barbets. Other species recorded during our wonderful stay here included brief Ruddy Cuckoo Doves, Grey-and-buff and Orange-backed Woodpeckers, Malaysian and Sunda Cuckooshrikes, Javan and Blue Whistling Thrushes, prolonged views of Pale Blue Flycatcher, Sunda Forktail, the vocally and genetically distinct ‘Javan’ Chestnut-fronted and White-browed Shrike Babblers, an all to brief Pink-headed Fruit Dove and a party of Crested Jay.

Mammals are often a feature of Halimun and this visit was no exception. Both Short-toothed and Asian Palm Civets fed on the juicy fruits around the accommodation in the evening giving amazing looks; endemic Grizzled and Ebony Langurs bounced around the forest and of most interest was the multiple looks at the endangered Javan Gibbon, including a family watched at length as they fed by the roadside.

As always the main focal point of a Java tour is Gunung Gede, a beautiful forested mountain often packed full of noisy weekenders and students but fortunately relatively quiet during our stay. With just over two-full days at our disposal we knew our time was short, but hard-work and a little bit of good fortune enabled us some spectacular sightings.
Though we encountered few birds we came across most of the targets on the first day and repeated much of the same the following day. Our success started predawn as a play of the tape and scan of the spotlight revealed that the poorly-known Javan Scops Owl had come in silently to our tape, clinging Bay Owl-like to a young sapling just a metre off the ground. We watched the little fellow for sometime as he sat and watched us from the dense understorey. This species is still little-known and has only ever been seen by a few birders due to their secretive habits as most of the sightings are misidentified Sunda Scops Owl from much lower down at the forest edge.
Venturing further up, as the light began to pierce through the forest, Chestnut-bellied Partridges were particularly vocal but as usual they were difficult to tease out, though the following day we get some sort of a view as a party scurried through the leaf-litter to evade our presence. The mountains most prized possession, Javan Cochoa was remarkably straight forward, they were obviously just coming into their breeding season as we kept bumping into pairs feeding alone and in feeding flocks, just generally making themselves conspicuous despite not singing. We had several wonderful looks at both sexes as they fed quietly just above head height on many occasions, a real bonus, Perhaps the most beautiful bird of the mountain went to Pink-headed Fruit Dove, another species that was notable by its ease this time as we encountered a number of striking males feeding low down. Another tricky endemic also fell on our first day as a pair of Rufous-fronted Laughingthrush was busy feeding their fledged youngster and at our highest point a flock of Volcano Swiftlet descended from the active volcano crater
Several feeding flocks were encountered, predominately including wacky Blue Nuthatches and not so spectacular Javan Dark-eyes. Endemic Rufous-tailed Fantail, White-flanked Sunbird, Sunda and Mountain Leaf Warblers, vocally-distinct montanus Chestnut-backed Scimitar Babbler and yet more Javan Bulbuls also made up the feeding flocks. Due to the lack of disturbance Javan Trogon was noted by the trail, including a wonderful pair watched at length. Other species recorded during our time here included several super cute, bouncing Javan Tesia, a number of Javan Whistling Thrush hugging the trail, Sunda Blue Robin, yet another vocally distinct White-browed Shortwing, Fire-tufted Barbet, Orange-spotted Bulbul, Sunda Scops Owl and a huge Red Giant Flying Squirrel.
Our third and final morning was spent in the scenic Cibodas Botanical Garden, a huge complex of exotic flowers and trees that covers the lower reaches of Mount Gede. We didn’t have to wait long for the little green bullets as our strategic vantage point proved adequate for a number of Yellow-throated Hanging Parrots whizzing past, with odd birds occasionally perching in the surrounding flowering trees. A number of Blood-breasted Flowerpeckers equally enjoyed the budding flowers along with Orange-spotted Bulbuls, and while waiting here a Javan Kingfisher came over to investigate, each shade of purple and blue glowing in the early morning sun against its huge red bill. Finally a wonderfully confiding party of Pygmy Tits responded to our pishing while we enjoyed ourselves with the birds all around us.
Braving the stench we spent the final couple of hours of daylight and first hour the following morning at the tiny marsh left at Muara Angke on the outskirts of Jakarta. Our main target here, the endangered Javan Coucal, was encountered climbing up a distant bush as it attempted to sun itself in the early morning light, though the mobbing birds successfully made sure it would stay mostly hidden! Our other target was much showier, though the pied plumage of the bird makes it much easier to see, as at least a pair and a single of the highly endangered Black-winged Starling flew around the marsh several times, perching occasionally.
Other notable species included White-browed Crake, Black-backed Swamphen, Black and Yellow Bitterns, numerous Sunda and Spot-breasted Woodpeckers, Javan and White-headed Munia, Small Blue and Blue-eared Kingfisher, Oriental Darter, Sunda Teal and just a couple of single Javan Myna, highlighting the plight of these species previously common throughout the Javan countryside.

Our final endemic of the tour required a flight, via roadside Milky Stork, for an exciting ‘twitch’ as we visited the historic temples of Prambanan on the outskirts of Yogyakarta. These treasured Hindu Temples, constructed as far back as the 9th century provides one of the last homes to the endangered Java Sparrow. We spent several hours enjoying these strikingly beautiful birds as they flew around the temples being harried by the local Tree Sparrows and Sooty-headed Bulbul. Even though the young had fledged the adults were still active and it was a superb way to end such a great trip – a great bird in a great setting.

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