Thailand & Cambodia Custom tour

12th - 28th February 2006

Leader: James Eaton

Angkor Wat, Cambodia (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia)

After a short nights rest in comfortable settings in Bangkok we departed pre-dawn and headed southwest along the coast to our first destination, the coastal saltpans next to Pak Thale village. This extensive series of saltpans and shrimp ponds adjacent to the Gulf of Thailand provides refuge for impresssive numbers of wintering and passage shorebirds, a fantastic spectacle for casual birdwatchers and shorebird enthusiasts alike. We started working our way through a plethora of shorebirds from sunrise with many feeding at remarkably close range; Marsh Sandpipers, Black-winged Stilts and Kentish Plovers fed oblivious to us in abysmal conditions, heavy rain and strong winds hampering our search and scattering the shorebirds over a wider area due to the increased water levels. Red-necked Stints were in noticeably short supply with Broad-billed Sandpipers being more numerous. Fortunately while scanning through a flock of nearby Broad-billed Sandpipers, we came across a noticeably pale calidris, sporting a broad white supercillium which eventually it popped its bill out of the thick mud to show a remarkable spatulate-shaped bill, and there was a sigh of relief all round as the much prized Spoon-billed Sandpiper was enjoyed feeding just 20 metres from us, allowing exceptional views from the comfort of our vehicle as it fed in its unique style, sweeping its bill from side to side in the soft mud.

With the weather seemingly drier further south and with our target birds seen so well we were soon heading southwards with Asian Pied & Vinous-breasted Starlings, Plain-backed Sparrow,a surprise perched Grey-faced Buzzard and an obliging Spotted Owlet provided welcome distractions en-route. We soon arrived at Khao Sam Roi Yot, a scenic coastal national park with towering limestone cliffs providing a dramatic backdrop against the pristine beaches. These untouched beaches provided views of several Malaysian Plover, a species in sharp decline due to destruction of it’s preferred habitat with Purple Sunbirds and Golden-bellied Gerygone singing from the nearby mangroves with Black-capped and Collared Kingfishers perched nearby. The extensive marshes nearby, the largest of their kind in Thailand, held a fine array of birds; 3 Painted Storks were a surprise fly-over, both Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas were present in good numbers along with a small party of Pacific Golden Plover, hunting Black-winged Kites, delightful Green Bee-eaters, Yellow Bitterns and single Slaty-breasted Rail and Cotton Pygmy Goose.

Grey Peacock Pheasant (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia) Puff-throated Babbler (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia)

Having made good time along the coast we opted to leave early to optimise our time at Kaeng Krachen, the largest of Thailand’s national parks. Kaeng Krachen, within touching distance of the Burmese border, holds an astonishing variety of birds with a distinct flavour of both Indochinese and Sundaic species. We gave ourselves a little over 2 full days here and we certainly made the most of it. Night-birding was particularly productive, with the rare White-fronted Scops Owl being relatively straightforward this year - a bird sitting on a open branch in our flashlight no more than 5 metres from us within 30 minutes of our initial night-birding escapade! A male Javan Frogmouth was also noteworthy as it sat above the road watching us intently along with Asian Barred Owlet and Brown Boobooks, though a calling Collared Scops Owl remained unseen. The dry, scrubby lowlands produced the hoped for Blue-bearded Bee-eater, a single Black-thighed Falconet watched us from its look-out perch and a single Great Hornbill flew overhead while Red Junglefowl scuttled off the road and Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrushes sang in unison from the roadside. A brief stop at a fruiting tree by the campground produced a male Orange-headed Thrush among a showy group of Eye-browed Thrushes and Blue-eared Barbets among the more numerous Green-eared. Upon entering the rich forest just beyond the Ban Krang Campsite, Spangled and Greater Racket-tailed Drongo’s were much in evidence, feeding flocks containing Green Magpies, Asian Fairy Bluebirds, Ochraceous and Buff-vented Bulbuls and Blue-winged Leafbirds were common along with a confiding ground-feeding Asian Stubtail. Here the jewels of the forest put on a stunning performance; a male Blue Pitta particularly so, the bird behaved so well, feeding just metres away for a full 10 minutes that the leader had to walk away in horror at not having his camera at hand ! Grey Peacock Pheasants were typically vocal and distant, though seeing them proved less difficult than ever before, perhaps the biggest surprise of the tour was finding a gorgeous male perched above us as it settled in to roost in the evening, and incredibly we were to see a female in the morning feeding along the road, oblivious to us watching from our nearby vehicle. Orange-breasted Trogons were particularly vocal, allowing several good views along with a small party of vocal Greater Necklaced Laughingthrushes. Reaching the higher elevations of the park is always an exciting prospect and did not disappoint, a large fruiting tree close to the road provided exceptional views, with patience, of 3 species of Pigeon; Yellow-vented, Wedge-tailed and Mountain Imperial, 4 species of Barbet; Great, Golden-throated, Moustached and Blue-throated along with Large Woodshrikes, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, Orange-bellied Leafbird and migrant Swinhoe’s Minivet. Roving flocks in the thick, lush undergrowth contained several shy Black-throated and loud White-crested Laughingthrushes, inquisitive White-browed Scimitar Babblers and the unique White-hooded Babbler along with Brown-cheeked Fulvettas, delightful White-browed Piculets, Buff-breasted Babblers and a party of vocal Grey Treepie. After much searching through the flocks and scanning the bamboo we eventually located a brief Ratchet-tailed Treepie, a species restricted to just this park within Thailand. Regular scanning from available vantage points provided views of both Tickell’s Brown and Great Hornbills, Black Eagle, Black Bazas and both Brown-backed Needletails and Fork-tailed Swifts whizzing past.

Eventually it was time to tear ourselves away from this fantastic park, moving northeast of Bangkok to Thailand’s flagship national park, Khao Yai, with high hopes following our earlier successes. A confiding pair of Scaly-breasted Partridges feeding close to trail 6 provided a good start on our first morning, though a fleeting glimpse of a less co-operative female Siamese Fireback was frustrating. Birding along trail 6 was typically slow at times, but it was quality rather than quantity for us, and the supporting cast made an impressive list, a male Banded Kingfisher perched above our heads, Long-tailed and Silver-breasted Broadbills in good numbers and other noteworthy birds included Asian Barred Owlet, a pair of White-crowned Forktails, 2 confiding Asian Stubtails, White-rumped Shamas and Hill Blue Flycatchers.

The following morning provided a lucky chain of events, while driving past two local photographers we noticed an accipter perched, our hopes of turning around were delayed temporarily as the sight of 4 male and a single female Siamese Fireback feeding next to the road more than compensated for yesterdays brief view. After this surprise we turned our attention to what proved to be a Besra. During this time we became aware of a distant calling Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo and while quickly hurrying towards the source of the call we disturbed a troop of Pig-tailed Macaques, and were more than a little surprised to find a Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo following them to feed in the disturbed leaf litter! Not to be out done, that evening proved just as special - Just as a thunderstorm started rumbling on the horizon so did not one but two calling Oriental Bay Owls! Positioning ourselves strategically inside the forest we soon found ourselves awestruck as an Oriental Bay Owl swooped in and sat clinging onto a vertical tree trunk staring straight at us, a truly magical moment, and the perfect finale to a great day ….or so we thought, since with adrenaline still pumping we more than a little surprised on the drive back to see a huge bull Asian Elephant walking straight towards our vehicle, veering to the right we just watched as the beast kept on about its business and continued straight down the main road!

A more relaxed pace ensued the next day and after the previous days excitement, we concentrated our efforts on the Radar Road where scanning the roadside trees and searching through the feeding flocks yielded some nice looks at more Long-tailed and Silver-breasted Broadbills, singing White-browed Shrike Babbler, Black-throated Laughingthrushes, calling Pale-legged Leaf Warbler, Hill Myna, Rosy and Swinhoe’s Minivets, a flock of 6 Red-headed Trogons and plenty of Red Junglefowl along with a solitary Grey-backed Shrike in the open savanna. Birding along the main road and campgrounds produced a wealth of frugivores and several widespread Asian species; Thick-billed and a surprise flock of 20 Wedge-tailed Pigeons showed well. Barred Cuckoo-dove, Black-throated Sunbird, Oriental White-eyes, Blue Whistling Thrush, pair of Slaty-backed Forktails, Yellow-vented, Fire-breasted and Thick-billed Flowerpeckers all appeared on at least one occasion.

Spot-billed Pelicans (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia) Painted Stork (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia)

In the morning we returned to Bangkok to take an early morning flight across the border to Cambodia. Though the flight takes just 45 minutes, the change in avifauna and culture from central Thailand is astonishing, the dry, arid countryside of Cambodia being more akin to parts of the Indian Subcontinent, and the dry heat noticeable after the humid conditions of Bangkok. Our base for initial exploration was to be the cultural capital of Siem Reap. Obviously the first afternoon was spent exploring the astonishing temples of Angkor, the heart and soul of the kingdom of Cambodia. We started at the spine-tinkling granddaddy of them all, Angkor Wat, widely believed to be the largest religious structure in the world. We then moved onto the atmospheric Ta Phrom temple, perhaps the most fascinating of the temples with snarling roots of the jungle encroaching onto the sandstone walls.

Next morning saw us on the Tonle Sap, a world biosphere reserve, and the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. We were soon heading off across the lake in the comfort of our boat to the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary, home to thousands of breeding waterbirds, the only one of its kind left in Southeast Asia. As we entered the Sanctuary the sky was filled with Indian and Great Cormorants, Whiskered Terns and Asian Openbills. We then switched to somewhat smaller boats to venture into the heart of the breeding colonies through the extensive system of waterways. Painted Storks, Spot-billed Pelicans and Oriental Darters soared above us, filling the sky, with huge Lesser Adjutants sporadically dwarfing them. It wasn’t long before we located our first stately Greater Adjutants swirling distantly above us while Grey-headed Fish Eagles showed well several times and a single Black-headed Ibis flew low overhead. Eventually we reached a viewing platform over looking a colony of Painted Stork, in with these were 2 nests of the much hoped for Milky Stork, both nests occupied by adult and chick, with the adults using their outspread wings to shield the chicks from the blinding midday heat. Elated, we turned round after a most enjoyable picnic on board our 3 man boats and took a more relaxed approach on the return journey, soaking in the atmosphere and enjoying the spectacle of constant swirls of storks and pelicans. We returned just in time to see the sunset over the water village with Black-crowned Night Herons flying out to feed overhead, a perfect end to an exhausting but fulfilling day!

Starting out early again next morning we headed west along the bumpy unpaved main highway towards Thailand beofre turning off towards Ang Trapeang Thmor, a large reservoir created during the Khmer Rouge regime. The highlight here were several Sarus Crane, of the endangered sharpeii race, feeding and offering nice fly-by views. The lush vegetation surrounding the reservoir holds a surprising number of wildfowl; Comb Duck has its Southeast Asian stronghold here and were accompanied by Cotton Pygmy Geese, Lesser Whistling Ducks, Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Little Grebes, Baya Weavers and yet more Painted Storks. Moving on from the area we located ourselves in the town of Kompong Thom for a one night stay. Birding the nearby grasslands in the late afternoon eventually produced the localised Manchurian Reed Warbler, a species that has recently been found wintering in the area, along with it’s much commoner relative, the Black-browed Reed Warbler. Searching through the scrub and grasses produced many brief views of small brown blobs, mainly migrant Yellow-breasted Buntings but a small flock of Red Avadavats put in a brief appearance and eventually a superb Lanceolated Warbler perched up next to us, cocking its tail and looking nervous for several minutes before disappearing back into the undergrowth. A highlight in this area were the incredible number of harriers quartering the fields, the majority being Eastern Marsh Harriers with smaller number of beautiful Pied Harriers putting in appearances. Next morning we opted for a different area slightly further a field and luckily this change of plan proved fruitful as we watched a male Bengal Florican feeding close-by in a recently burnt area and further views were had of two distant flying males along with 2 Lesser Adjutants, 4 Woolly-necked Storks and several fly-by Spot-billed Ducks.

White-rumped Falcon (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia) Yellow-footed Pigeon (James Eaton/Birdtour Asia)

Happy with the mornings proceedings, we headed north, into the northern plains, to Preah Vihear Province where our base would be the basic yet comfortable and accommodating surroundings of Tmat Boey. The habitat here is dry, open deciduous forest and with little understory apart from regular patches of burnt grass gives the impression of walking through another world, particularly as one of the main target birds is the truly prehistoric-looking Giant Ibis, a bird rediscovered in this remote area only recently after being extirpated throughout much of its previous range. The technique here is to search the nearby Trapeangs - these are small marshy pools that are favoured by the ibis and other waterbirds. The birds occur at these sparsely distributed trapeangs only sporadically so we were very lucky to encounter two Giant Ibis at the very first trapeang that we visited. and to find another bird perched in the forest that evening. White-shouldered Ibis, a bird also now largely restricted to these remote regions proved a little trickier, on our first morning we heard their whaling calls in the dawn mist, but only managed flights views of a pair, fortunately however upon returning to the area the following morning we managed to track the calls again and located 3 birds feeding nearby, allowing prolonged views.
The forest here also provides refuge for a huge variety of species, and due to the open nature of the forest, many allow unusually prolonged views, especially the large variety of woodpeckers which occur and this year we were treated to several excellent views of Great Slaty, single Rufous-bellied and outrageous Black-headed. Many species rarely encountered elsewhere in southeast Asia can be found quite commonly here, including Rufous-winged Buzzard, Brown Prinia, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Chinese Francolin, Burmese Shrike, Indochinese Cuckooshrike, Indochinese Bushlark and tonkinensis Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch but we were both surprised and delighted to find a superb male White-rumped Falcon, allowing prolong views as it sat watching for its prey on an open snag.
Other species recorded included the declining Alexandrine Parakeet, along with the commoner Red-breasted and a single Plum-headed Parakeet, Hoopoe, Crested Treeswift, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Rufous Treepie, Black-hooded Oriole, Vinous-breasted Starling and White-crested Laughingthrushes.
After this great finale to our birding we headed back to the home comforts of Siem Reap to relax and look back on what had been a fantastic tour.

This custom tour was focused on a list of key species, many of which being localised, rare and difficult to observe. We were highly successful, recording among others; Grey Peacock Pheasant, Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo, Oriental Bay and White-fronted Scops Owl, Blue Pitta, Bengal Florican and finally both Giant and White-shouldered Ibis. We recorded a total of 326 species in just 15 days and a further 9 species heard only.

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For further information on Custom Tours to Thailand and Cambodia please contact us via info@birdtourasia.com or follow the links for our scheduled departure tours, please click here

*All the photos contained in this report were taken during the tour and are © James Eaton / Birdtour Asia.